nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Is that noise a dog or does your extruder bark as > well ? Eheh, it's my dog :-) > 130C is far too low for ABS so I expect it gets > too viscous with a 5C swing. I use 220C on a hot > bed and 240C otherwise. 5C would not make much > difference at those temperatures. Sorry, my mistake. It s at 230ºC. &by casainho - Mechanics
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Are you sure the thermistor is reading the actual > temperature of the nozzle and is not seeing the > heat from the nichrome directly? You are right. It were last time I assembled the extruder. I took of that big washer to see if the problem was there. I had assembled and disassembly many times the extruder on lasby casainho - Mechanics
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What heater / thermistor arrangement do you have? > It certainly looks like the temperature is > swinging around. > > Perhaps there is poor conduction between the > heater and nozzle, or not enough power. When you > extrude at 3mm^3/s IIRC it needs about 2W more to > heat the plastic, so if your heaby casainho - Mechanics
VDX Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > ... sounds like 'thermal oszillation' because of > lack of energy ... but trapped airbubbles can > cause a similar behaviour. I am setup temperature so I don't get airbubbles (airbubbles means to much hot, I guess). When it jams and starts again, then there are some airbubbles, but I guess that is because plastic filaby casainho - Mechanics
Hello :-) I am having a problem since ever. My extruder do not extrudes at constant flow. It extrudes like for 15 seconds and after during 4 seconds it stops, like if is jammed, again extrudes for 15 seconds and another 4 seconds stops, and continues like this. I can clearly see the motor running at constant speed and when extruding stops motor continues to run but plastic filament don't go fuby casainho - Mechanics
buzzard192 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > > 24mm width film on a 33 meter roll for $4.20. > That's almost 0.8 m^2 of kapton for less than 5 > bucks... I think I beat your price ;-) > $5.30/m^2 I bought a few time ago that 24mm kapton tape from Deal Extreme and I am being using it - it works great! :-)by casainho - General
Since I understand after reading wiki of Makerbot, they are just doing heated bed for the 60ºC - to use PLA. They simple didn't mention a values for PLA or ABS... since ABS requires 120ºC, looks to me that their solution may not be good for ABS. I added a link to RepRap Heated Bed wiki page for the one on Makerbot site. And I made just the same on Makerbot page, a link to RepRap :-) Looking atby casainho - General
> > Can you make tests for that temperatures? > > Yes but time is always an issue, what tests would > you like me to do I mean testing your idea, using peltier module to head a aluminium bed.by casainho - General
Triffid_Hunter Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > last time I checked, peltiers have a max delta t > of about 65 celsius so you'd need to stack two or > three of them I didn't know that was possible. Will it work? I hope someone can test this. But I suspect that nichrome wire will be much more cheaper than that solution.by casainho - General
So, how do you think it could be used? maybe placed under the aluminium and glued? And since we need 120ºC for ABS and 55ºC for PLA, do you think it could handle it? Can you make tests for that temperatures?by casainho - General
goinreverse Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Just a though but you can get 9"x9"x1/4" ceramic > sheet from mcmaster for $46, part number 8479K116 Very expensive but good for under side of the bed, for temperature insulating. > Lay a zig zag of nichrome wire and a suitable > resistor on the bottom and RTV or epoxy in place > you are done. Certainlyby casainho - General
johnrpm Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I ordered some peltier units from > here, > XJxJ8CFV1d4wod2VuThg , they heat up very quickly > and can cool by reversing the polarity, not as > cheap as nichrome etc but neat units at the price, > this site also do PID controllers at a very > reasonable price. That's important to have an idea and goingby casainho - General
I got PLA for the first time and did a print using heated bed at 55ºC, and it worked perfectly :-) -- so, the values reported by NopHead are correct for PLA and ABS.by casainho - General
SebastienBailard Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Want to attach the current working symbol for > "working party" to the top? I don't understand what you mean. Isn't there a way to use external images on wiki? And is possible to use an image at a different size, doing resize? defining with and height?by casainho - General
I added the schematic to wiki page and technical description. I also got an answer from Bre Pettis of Makerbot, when I asked them: "I am contacting Makerbot because I would like that Makerbot start selling heated build platforms. There are already good experiments and results (...)" Answer: "Yup, we're on this! Thanks!". I sent them the link for this forum message, I am sure they are followingby casainho - General
BodgeIt Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I know that a RepStarp Mendel or RepStarp Darwin > can be built for less than £200 or $320 US > > I think with further work on the Electronics we > could get the inital build cost down to > £150 or > $240 US. I don't agree with you. If you count the printed time and assembly time (which you should), Meby casainho - General
Thanks! I am printing right now and it workedby casainho - Skeinforge
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > In my software I have a separate setting for > everything on the first layer: bed temp, plastic > outline temp, plastic fill temp, outline speed, > fill speed, fan on or off. > > All this stuff should be separate from slicing > though as it is with my system. You should not > have to slice the modelby casainho - Skeinforge
Tonokip Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi Casainho! > > Try lowering the the Carve setting Perimeter width > over Thickness (ratio). Thanks! But I remember to change that value for 5, 10 and see much difference. But for 2, 1.8, 1.5 and 1, I didn't saw any changes... I will try later again :-)by casainho - Skeinforge
Heated build platform is the future but for printing using it we need to print the first layer at a slow speed. We don't need the raft but we need a slow printing so the plastic sticks on kapton tape. I am being tweaking my gcode by hand, putting the first layer at 4 times slower and extruder speed also 4 times slower. Could Skeinforge have a way so we could choose the first layer head speed andby casainho - Skeinforge
Hello :-) The walls of my printed objects are not sticking between them, I guess this is a problem. Can someone please tell me the skeinforge option were I can tweak that? Thanks.by casainho - Skeinforge
I made a mistake, I wanted to post about Skeinforge and is instead here: Moderator, please delete this message.by casainho - Skeinforge
Iniciei o site, com o objectivo de ajudar a comunidade. O site é geral para a impressão 3D, desde o desenho até à impressão, sejam ferramentas Open Source ou não - se bem que as Open Source são as mais interessantes :-)by casainho - Portuguese RUG
goinreverse Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > this seemed like a stupidly simple solution: > > You are using acrylic which is problematic on this application, as both NopHead and me reported. > Also you might consider buying a reptile heating > pad at a petstore and using a different power > source to supply more current, a good temp seems >by casainho - General
I just made the schematic. Please everyone verify (SEE THE ATTACHMENT) if there are some problems on it, or any changes that should be done. There is an .png file and the sources files for Kicad. Soon I may buy the temperature sensor and mosfet from Farnell.com. I have all other material with me. If someone can test this circuit, please report later :-) SebastienBailard Wrote: ---------------by casainho - General
Grogyan Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Has anyone tried, say a 3mm thick sheet atop of > the normal platform, usually mdf? I did and I bought that 3mm sheet on a local shop. It came already bended and even when I fixed it using screws it got even bended on other directions. Since 3mm is thin, it's very is to bend, even while they store it on shop it bendsby casainho - General
My wireless and wired network runs perfectly on that Ubuntu version :-) I just use that version to run EMC2, so to print on my EMC2RepStrap. I prefer to use the latest version for sure on my daily PC systems :-)by casainho - EMC2
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > @casainho, > > Yes the non-vacuum version might be the simplest > but it is difficult to remove big flat parts like > the x-carriage without prizing with a knife. That > risks damaging the part or the bed slightly. Some > people may not care. Or you can just tap it with a > hammer! Ok, then still goby casainho - General
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > casainho, > The idea of the vacuum table is to use a sheet of > Kapton film rather that sticky tape. When the part > is built and cooled you can release the vacuum and > simply peel the part off. The film can be a belt > that moves over a roller to eject the part, or a > moving arm could knock the partby casainho - General
Triffid_Hunter Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > N-channel carry more current than p-channel. Vgs > is important too- some fets will have a low enough > Rds(on) at Vgs=4.5v, but you'll have to look for > them - perhaps the IRF1405 in the link below? > > If you want to know where the calculations came > from, > > 2/FET-power.html I wouldby casainho - General