Why not ask RRP for a warranty replacement? Although if you are not in the UK, ordering from RS may be quicker.by dc42 - Ormerod
It looks to me that your first layer wasn't put down properly. Some suggestions: 1. In the slic3r settings, increase the number of skirt loops to 3 and increase the distance from print to skirt to a larger value, say 20mm. This gives the printer more time to get the filament flowing properly, which is needed because of the bowden-style extruder. 2. Watch carefully as the first layer is put downby dc42 - Ormerod
Quoteadsoftware As far as I've read, an LED near the Y motor pins on the board should indicate that the Y end stop is alive. But only darkness here on my end. Is there a way to test whether the end stop actually works? Can I see a response in the UI if the end stop has been hit? According to there is a code M119 that would do this, however the current firmware does not appear to implement it.by dc42 - Ormerod
Also the Extruder 1 retraction length is still set to 1mm in the supplied profiles (checked just now), but needs to be increased to about 4mm for good-quality prints.by dc42 - Ormerod
Are the extruder gears moving, if so, how?by dc42 - Ormerod
If you are trying to print a real part, then the gcode file will include a "set temperature and wait till reached" or a "wait for correct temperatures" command. So you can't print a part without the hot end temperature being reported. OTOH you can "print" circle.g because it doesn't actually wait for temperatures or do any extrusion.by dc42 - Ormerod
I agree, it looks like a y-axis problem. See items 3a and 3b in the Printing section of my unofficial Ormerod troubleshooting guide at .by dc42 - Ormerod
QuoteMykey I'm after a replacement cartridge heater and the aluminium block which it goes into, as my other half decided to throw it away. Was she dropping a hint?by dc42 - Ormerod
Makes sense, that bypasses the first page completely. Are you using the latest firmware, version 0.57a? You might also like to try Matt's web interface at which doesn't have a password page.by dc42 - Ormerod
Quotenipper @dc42 One thing ... looking very closely at the sensor board through a magnifying glass the plating doesn't appear to completely line the through hole which links the ground to the side of the board with the bits and bobs on it - there's clearly a ring of virgin green board just below the lip of the hole on the back side. Shouldn't the plating go all the way through (otherwise the grby dc42 - Ormerod
Sounds like a short on the sensor board between +3.3V (pink wire) and output (blue wire). Check the sensor board for solder bridges. EDIT: or the ground connection (black wire) is open circuit.by dc42 - Ormerod
That's one of the changes I was considering making to the firmware a while ago. However, the feedback from Ian was that it's unlikely to be accepted into the standard firmware because RRP want to keep the Duet dan control output in reserve for an external fan. Maybe we can agree an M-code with RRP to turn the feature on and off? btw the type of fan backwash deflector you fit (if any) makes a bigby dc42 - Ormerod
Check that you have the IR sensor connector the right way round on the sensor board, as shown in the photo, blue wire on the left, pink on the right.by dc42 - Ormerod
1.3 ohms extra resistance would be undetectable, since the resistance at room temperature is 100K or more and the ADC is run in 10-bit mode. Are you sure that the thermistor wasn't being warmed by your fingers or by heat radiated from the stepper driver chips when you connected it directly to the pins on the Duet?by dc42 - Ormerod
Quotekwikius Great work! Sounds like a vast improvement. What version of the firmware do I need to try it? (I'm still using the original one) regards Andy My changes are in the latest firmware on the Duet branch, however that firmware also has some incomplete changes to the stepper movement code that I think are best avoided until that work is completed. So get it from instead. Btw my suggestby dc42 - Ormerod
QuoteGregL Cannot see where G31 is explained in the Commisioning process. It's at the start of the next page. It may be that your IR sensor is not working. I suggest you ignore any X and Z homing problems until you have verified that the IR probe is working (returning sensible values in response to G31) and have set the G31 parameters in config.g. Ian, you might want to update the commissioningby dc42 - Ormerod
The problem I can see is that the bottom of the rod is wobbling, so it evidently isn't concentric with the rotation point of the bearing. I reprinted and replaced the z-driven gear but the result is the same. So something is not quite right: - Wonky bearing? - Error in the z-gear-driven STL file, so the nut hexagon doesn't line up with the bearing hole? - Nut drilled off-centre? - Something elseby dc42 - Ormerod
Quotevictors Pictures. Will do some soon. I usually take pictures with my cellphone, but the interference usually crashed the Duet, so I don't take it into the lab (yet). Try flight-safe mode?by dc42 - Ormerod
Hi Treth, I think you are looking at the wrong graph. That one is for a a target at a fixed distance of 1mm where the target slides from side to side. The graph of interest here is Fig 7, which shows the collector current peaking at 1mm distance. So as long as the sensor face is at least 1mm higher than the nozzle, the reading will be monotonic with distance. Preferably it should not be much highby dc42 - Ormerod
QuoteKimBrown LoL um no.... I work on a large Harbour Tug bringing super tankers in... There's no Ladies around here. Hopefully I'll manage to get to Tesco soon and grab some, the next time we're along side. Building this kit in a moving environment has been interesting to say the least..... Kim.. I had visions of you on a luxury cruise!by dc42 - Ormerod
I've updated my unofficial troubleshooting guide. The forum software will no longer allow me to edit the original post, so I've attached the new one here.by dc42 - Ormerod
Where did you install slic3r, and what directory were you in when you loaded Pronterface? The path it's trying to load slic3r from in the 'Slicing' message looks like a relative path.by dc42 - Ormerod
QuoteKimBrown Being on a ship there's no where to get Meths or Acetone to clean it. Can you get nail varnish remover?by dc42 - Ormerod
QuoteKilpikonna What I also realised is that there is swarf on the gears and in the grease from the nut, this is a strong indicator that something is wrong. I had this too. I cleaned the gears and applied light oil to the threaded rod, and I haven't seen any swarf since then.by dc42 - Ormerod
You might like to look in the Electrical section of my unofficial Ormerod troubleshooting guide at .by dc42 - Ormerod
I've finalised my design for a modulated sensor hacked from the original one. The schematic is attached. The main change from my original design is the addition of the 1K resistor between the collector and emitter of the transistor. This causes the IR emitter to generate a small amount of light even when the modulation control signal is off. The purpose of this is to bias the phototransistor intoby dc42 - Ormerod
QuoteGregL None of the homing worked correctly!! Z homing just ran into the bed, and eventually unscrewed the threaded rod out of the Z gear Greg The Z homing won't work until you have done the G31 calibration. You didn't say what the problem with the x-homing was, but put some white or alu tape on the homing tab on the z-carriage if you haven't already done so.by dc42 - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts I think the fan duct and nozzle duct parts have less problem, despite being very close to the bed, as cooler air is passing through them all the time. Though they will need changing too, eventually. With ABS, you could probably run with out the fan and nozzle duct completely, if you wanted, as ABS doesn't really need cooling as much as PLA does, when it prints - ABS extrudes a bitby dc42 - Ormerod
Quoteadsoftware I'm not sure if I like the ATX power supply because it's so noisy. For another project I'm using the 200 watts version of this Thing, which is totally quiet. I've bought the 300W version of that to power my Ormerod. The 250W version would probably have done, but the 300W version cost me only £1 more.by dc42 - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts So long as there's good contact between the heatsink and the aluminium heater block, there shouldn't be any great need for extra compounds between them; I don't usually worry about it. They're both aluminium, and conduct heat rapidly. Thermal paste such as Arctic Silver has an upper heat limit, which we exceed, so the paste may dry out and be a BARRIER to heat transfer: From the Arby dc42 - Ormerod