Quotethe_digital_dentist...just finding a cardboard box that fits over the printer... That was my plan at first, explain that to my spouse. I'll build it in plexiglass because I got a good deal for a couple of 21"x53" panels and want to use them. The rest will be some cheap or left over plywood. Should be ~$60 CAD for the whole thing, nothing crazy.by andreq - Reprappers
I'm aiming to get "better" result out of ABS with the enclosure. From what I've read online, some commercial printer have heated enclose reaching close to 70C to get superbe result. I'm not looking for perfection, just a way to print some "flat" object with less warping. Currently my heated bed at 100C is the best result I could have. My print did fail, but it feels like I was almost there, Iby andreq - Reprappers
I've been trying to print ABS latety and found out I'd probably need an enclosure to get good result. My printer is a Wilson TS with PLA parts (corner brace, motor holder, extruder, all of it!). I haven't got any problem with it and I also printed some more part in PLA to upgrade it a bit. I'd like to know if anyone had issue with the PLA parts inside an enclosure. Here's my first draft (don'by andreq - Reprappers
You're firmware seem to be out of sync with your printer. Did Marty send you any firmware file that you should be sending to the Arduino? I got a partial kit from him, I don't know what's included in the complete kit . You can find Marty on the forum and private message him, he should reply in a timely matter. I do have his email, but I'm not sure he'd want me to share it. Anyway, I have my owby andreq - Extruded Aluminum Frames
QuoteMichaelj Quoteandreq I'm currently looking for an aluminium plate (instead of glass) to put over my MK3 "bent" bed. I think a 3/16" thick, 8.375" x 7.9375" plate would fit well and stay flat. Since we're a bit on the subject, anyone know where I could find this cheaply in Canada ? I've emailed some local supplier and they all have crazy minimum order. Go to a local scrap metal yard andby andreq - Reprappers
If you have any question, you can PM me anytime. I finished building mine about a month ago and been using it almost 3-4 time a week. Assembly is quite easy and the reward is epic. Hope you have as much fun as I doby andreq - General
I'm currently looking for an aluminium plate (instead of glass) to put over my MK3 "bent" bed. I think a 3/16" thick, 8.375" x 7.9375" plate would fit well and stay flat. Since we're a bit on the subject, anyone know where I could find this cheaply in Canada ? I've emailed some local supplier and they all have crazy minimum order.by andreq - Reprappers
I'm in the Quebec City area, but I've heard similar service are available near Beauce US borders. I've never tried that service since from what I've been told, it's some random guy I have to call I think I missed CPI automation in my 3 weeks search of Canadian suppliers. Looking at their website right now, looks like they have very nice price for the 1010 (1") extrusion. I'll surely keep thiby andreq - Reprappers
Having used mine for couple of weeks now, you made the right choice! I've finally pushed myself to publish the missing step in my instructions : Hope this help!by andreq - Reprappers
I've been using an old (and dirt cheap) 350w PSU to print PLA with no issue. I did get a LED-type psu to replace it, but you should be fine for a while.by andreq - Reprappers
Here's some of my print and what I've learnt so far. My first print! Man was I lost and knew nothing. I expected this to be a normal result. little did I know my extrusion step were completely wrong. NOTE : If you are using a direct drive extruder, the Wilson configuration.h file on github as the wrong value! Here are my value after calibration : #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.5,by andreq - Reprappers
Complete printer My build include Mk3 aluminium heat bed (cheap Chinese one from aliexpress, they aren't perfectly flat, but I'm having pretty good result) Full Graphical LCD Controller "Led strip" power supply (more info to come)by andreq - Reprappers
Step #6 - Electronic Go watch mjrice video : I didn't take any photo, but there's ton of good tutorials and documentation on the matter. I have been fiddling with electronic for a while, if you guys need some help, I'll be happy to try and help you.by andreq - Reprappers
Place the left most mount ~48mm away from the left side. Fix in place with a T-slot screw. Repeat for all the other mounting brackets. Just try to have the same distance on both sides. Slide the smooth rod through the X axis and motor mount. You have to slide them kind of side way a bit then up the top mounting hole. (See video) They might slide down, this will be fixed when we add the motor.by andreq - Reprappers
Step #5 - Z Axis Gather the parts 1 - 350mm smooth rod 4 - T-slot screw 8 - M3 x 14 screw 2 - Stepper Motor 2 - M5 x 325 threaded rod 2 - Shaft coupler 1 - Y axis assembly 1 - XZ frame assembly 1 - X axis assembly Place the Y axis rear frame mount 90mm away from the rear feets. Fix it with a T-slot screw. Place the XZ frame on the rear mount and fix the front mount flush to it usiby andreq - Reprappers
Fix the bearing assembly at the end of the tensioner using a M4 x 20 scre and nut. I have no clue if this has to be tight or loose. I'm planing on printing small washer so I can screw it tight without having the sides rubbing on the bearing plastic housing. Install the X limit switch (forgot to get a better photo) Slide the smooth rod into the idler. Slide the carriage on the smooth rod. Finby andreq - Reprappers
I'm back ! Sorry for the delay. Had tons of stuff going on. Finished the printer a few weeks ago and it's going strong! Step #4 - X Axis Gather the parts 370mm smooth rod This was a bit confusing, I think 380mm would fit and "make sense" ? The 370mm can move left and right in the finished printer, but it never happened to me for now. The printer won't fall apart if they move. It was just a bby andreq - Reprappers
You can definitely use them! I made this guide to help anyone building your design On a side note, I'm back from vacation, expect the next steps to show up soon!by andreq - Reprappers
Hey bassnfool, how did you fix the belt on the X carriage ? Should I loop the belt and zip-tie it like the Y belt holder or there's some kind of magic with that little slit right in the center ? Thanksby andreq - Reprappers
Fix end-stop assembly into left most slot using M5 x 10 screw. You'll be left with 2 unused screw.... oupsby andreq - Reprappers
Insert 4 t-slot nuts into the bottom 330 extrusion. This will be the front of the assembly. Slide 6 nuts into the back of this same extrusion. Screw the remaining Z motor mount screw. Fix the rear bracket to the 330 extrusion. Take the remaining 330 extrusion and insert : 2 nuts in the front 2 nuts on top 3 nuts in the rear. Fix the top extrusion on the Z top frame/rod holder fby andreq - Reprappers
Step #3 - XZ frame Gather the parts 2 - 400 extrusion 2 - 330 extrusion 29 - M5 x 10 screw 37 - T-slot nut 2 - Z top frame/rod holder 2 - Z motor mount 2 - Frame read bracket 1 - Z end-stop holder Insert 4 nuts into the a 400mm extrusion. This will be the right side of the frame. Screw the rear bracket using M5 x 10 screws. Make sure its flush with the extrusion. Attach the Z top frby andreq - Reprappers
Yeah I figured that out too late. I've read or seen a video somewhere where they explain it can still be mounted/removed by going through the rod first. To be honest, I'm taking the photos as I build my printer and didn't feel the need to disassemble the whole thing. It wasn't much of an issue, just made me realize I should re-watch the video before starting a new step.by andreq - Reprappers
We need some more parts again! 1 - Gt2 timing belt (whole lenght). 1 - Y belt holder and tensioner. 3 - M3 x 30 screws. 3 - M3 nuts. Insert 1 nut and screw it into the tensioner portion of the Y belt holder. ] Find the Y belt holder position and drill 2 holes Mount the Y belt holder as shown. Insert the tensioner and screw a bit so it's held in place. You now have a complete Y axisby andreq - Reprappers
Gather some more parts 230x230 mdf board 1 - Limit switch hardware 8 - M3 Lock nut. 4 - M3 x 10 screw. 8 - M3 x 14 screw. 1 - Gt2 pulley. 1 - Limit switch. 1 - 624RS bearing with plastic idler casing. This was definitely too tight, I pushed the bearing in and it didn't break the sides, but the plastic is kinda white all around the bearing. I might print some new one later Mount the bearby andreq - Reprappers
Update #1 I've received my extrusion from Misumi on Monday. The cuts are insanely precise! Step #2 - Y Axis Gather the parts 2 - 400mm extrusion 2 - 400mm smooth rod 4 - Y bearing holder 1 - Y end motor mount 1 - Y end idler mount 4 - Frame brace 12 - T-slot nut 12 - M5 x 10 screw 4 - Linear Bearing 1 - Stepper motor Insert extrusions and rods into Y end idler mount. The fit on mineby andreq - Reprappers
I was aiming at a Plexi Prusa i3, but the Wilson TS looks much more solid. Getting most of the mechanical part from North America is nice since I can start building the printer before getting all the electronic. Btw, my name is André, but I do call myself Andrew while speaking in English. I'm French Quebecer, if you see any poor grammar or typo, let me know!by andreq - Reprappers
Adjust the MK7 height so its aligned with the bearing. If you have some filament, use it as a guide. You might want to loosen the grub screw before putting the M3 x 60 screws at it's kinda hard to get in there. Attach the J-head using the hot-end clamp and 2 M3 x 30 screws and nuts. Fix the fan to the fan duct using 4 M3 x 14 screws and nuts. Screw on the Fan assembly to the extruderby andreq - Reprappers
STEP #1 - Direct drive extruder Gather the parts From left to right 2 - M3 x 60 screws 8 - M3 nuts 1 - M3 lock nut 1 - M4 nut 1 - MK7 drive gear 4 - M3 washers 6 - M3 x 30 screws 2 - Extruder idler springs 1 - 624RS bearing 1 - M4 x 20 screw 4 - M3 x 14 screws 1 - Stepper motor 1 - J-Head assembly (built by mjrice) 1 - Extruder idler 1 - Extruder fan duct 1 - Extruder body 1 - Extruderby andreq - Reprappers
Hi guys, I'm new to the hobby and would love to share my build process while trying to bring some to the community. I'm a programmer in the video game industry by day, but I love fiddling with electronic and making stuff at home. I felt this year was the one to get a 3d printer! I plan to build a Wilson TS in 1 or 2 month. In this thread, I'll be posting my process as I go forward with the bby andreq - Reprappers