And one more update, in case it helps anyone in the future. I'm in the process of building a new machine with a very similar setup and decided to give it another go to get the external stepper driver running on the EXP1 pins on the SKR 2 board with Marlin 2. First try, it worked first try this time, haha. The stepper driver I'm using this time is a TB6600 which is directly supported in the firmby Ynothna - Firmware - Marlin
And another update! It's working, finally, after only 15 hours of fighting with it... I found a video of another stepper driver, the TB6600, being used with the SKR 1.3 and it was connected to the CLS pins, which I was under the impression weren't used by Marlin. Apparently they are, because that worked and I now have the motor spinning properly. Thankfully I don't actually need the extra driveby Ynothna - Firmware - Marlin
Back with another update. It looks like the board is sending it a signal but I'm betting something isn't right in my MINIMUM_STEPPER_POST_DIR_DELAY, MINIMUM_STEPPER_PULSE, or MAXIMUM_STEPPER_RATE settings. When I have it connected to the arduino the voltage across the STEP connection drops from 5V to 2.3V while it's moving the motor. When I check the same thing on the SKR 2 board, the drop is onby Ynothna - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteVDX ... I'm regularly using external drivers with my boards with Marlin4Due oder Marlin2.0 on them -- it's mainly defining the correct pins for STEP and DIR (sometimes Enable too), connecting them together with GND to the inputs of the driver (signal pins to [+], GND to [-] of the driver). Could be, you have to set pullup resistors, which my boards have installed ... and some drivers needsby Ynothna - Firmware - Marlin
Hi everyone! It's been ages since I've posted anything but I'm running out of ideas and am not sure if it's even possible to do what I'm trying to anymore. I am trying to get a MA860H External Stepper Driver working on my SKR 2 with Marlin 2.0.9 but I'm not having any luck. It's using the EXP1 with the pins mapped but I get no movement. I've triple checked everything, tried common-anode and comby Ynothna - Firmware - Marlin
Just reporting back that I tried upgrading my firmware and so far so good. It's made it farther than it ever has without a blip so we'll see what happens. I was running 1.1.6 on there and realized I hadn't tried changing it out while swapping around all the hardware. If it doesn't fix the problem I'll be back but I'm hopeful!by Ynothna - Printing
Hey, I've replaced the thermistor a couple times (was using an authetic E3Dv6 thermistor, then a knockoff that was very broken, then a standard one). First and second both had the same results. I've checked the wires over and over, I've had the board completely unplugged and replugged, two different boards, and still no luck. The auto PID I've run multiple times as well. I'm very confused by iby Ynothna - Printing
Hey everyone. I have a FLSUN i3 Prusa clone that I had to replace the board on a while back. I don't use it much these days so I dug it out to resurrect it. The problem I'm having is that since hooking it up with a Ramps 1.4 board the hotend and bed (mostly hotend) get a lot of temp drops. While printing it starts fine, but after maybe 5 minutes it will start to get these little sudden drops, thby Ynothna - Printing
I know it's an older thread, but I just needed to add my thanks to Dodgey99. I have been fighting with my printer for the last two and a half months after doing some upgrades. In the process the Y offset became a problem for me, something I'd never run into before. I have tried multiple things with no luck. I finally figured it must have been something with the small areas creating a problem andby Ynothna - General Mendel Topics
Quotelkcl hi folks, yes the sled, it's about 1in below the heated bed, on 4(?) spring-loaded screws for adjustment, that's the standard mendel layout at least. one layer of cork's not enough, you want enough (cardboard) underneath the cork to make sure that the cork is fully in contact with the printbed. cool-down time will be longer but you can do what nophead did with the mendel90 and add a sby Ynothna - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotecheddy Quotelkcl hiya cheddy, i remember that nophead recommended the trick of putting several layers of cardboard (cutting up the box his kit arrived in.. ) in between the metal plate and the printbed. that stops airflow getting in underneath, and also acts as a heat-trap. Hi Ikcl, thanks for your quick response. I don't think the print bed on my printer has two layers, just a single aluby Ynothna - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotewunderkind The image you have posted is radically different from my flsun3d i3. I don't think you are comparing apples with apples. My 2020 frame is incredibly rigid and displays no tendency to wobble. Are we talking about the same supplier? Mine came from flsun3d Printer Store, whom I found to be communicative and proactively helpful even though I did not have any issues with the prby Ynothna - Extruded Aluminum Frames
QuoteTatsudoshi Good Day Well after looking at all the brackets to hold the lead screws more secure, I noticed that the top brackets that come with the Flsun I3 to support the two Z axis stainless rods also have a 8mm counter sunk hole opposite each other that would support the lead screws if they were longer, so I bought two 8mm lead by 2mm pitch (same as factory) lead screws 400mm long and cuby Ynothna - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Hey everyone! I just wanted to leave a note here in hopes it might be of use to someone else. From the beginning my printer has been pretty noisy, the vibration from the 40mm fan was pretty brutal on the ears. It didn't help when I forgot to shut it off while leveling the X axis and sheared off two fan blades with my calipers... I purchased a standard replacement fan...at 30mm, so it's sittinby Ynothna - Extruded Aluminum Frames
That is some pretty awesome progress! I'm glad to see they're coming out fairly well I find for my top surfaces my printer almost seems to be under extruding, it fills in the gaps pretty decently throughout the print, but when creating the top layers the lines are thinner and create openings. I need to play around with some settings and see what I can find, I haven't had much time lately. Todayby Ynothna - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I know repetier does have the ability to rotate, but I can't remember off the top of my head how, I used it only for a short time. Usually there are options to rotate around an axis. Glad you got it figured out! That's unfortunate that PEI is so expensive out there. When I saw your signature for some reason I thought you were in the USA, not NZ. I spent a month in NZ a few years ago, I love it oby Ynothna - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Looking good for the first prints! The curling is usually caused by the print not sticking, overheating will tend to cause elephant foot (the bottom layer melts more and spreads out a bit, creating a bit of a lip on the bottom). I found that adding a PEI plate on top of my heat bed did wonders for my prints sticking, I don't have to use tape anymore. Also, with that fan cooler model you shouldby Ynothna - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I'll have to double check my lead screw fitting, I can't remember off the top of my head. Thanks for the suggestion! I did have some braces for the lead screws but I must have got them a bit off, they were causing some waves in the Y axis of the print. Removing them didn't totally solve the problem, but it's far less noticeable. I'll have to try a different brace design. The self tap screw locatby Ynothna - Extruded Aluminum Frames
That's great, I mean, horrible, that the chores got delayed I struggled a bit with the Y axis tension as well, I had it far too loose to begin with but later got the tensioner working right. The mount I have didn't attach properly with the length of screw they suggested (didn't make it all the way to the nut) so it popped out when I tightened it. After putting in a longer one I was able to getby Ynothna - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotewunderkind Well, so far, so good. About 2.30 this afternoon the courier knocked on my front door and handed me my box of kit. Top marks to flsun3d Printer Store for actioning my order so promptly when they opened up on Monday morning and to TNT for a brilliant international courier service. I checked out the contents against the packing list that Ynothna uploaded and all seems to be pby Ynothna - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Nice! I was really impressed on how quick mine arrived in Canada, I think it took a week overall instead of the typical 4-6. Fingers crossed it's all accounted for!by Ynothna - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotewunderkind Thanks again, Ynothyna. You are proving to be very helpful. Good to know I was originally on the right track. I have been slicing with Slic3r and saving as Gcode but a friend of mine who uses an aging Makerbot said he just fires his STL files off to the printer. Your comments clarify why that could be. Seeing the 'supported formats' comments in the listing made me wonder ifby Ynothna - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotewunderkind Whilst I'm waiting for my kit to arrive I've been looking at some prints I will want to build. Let me display my abject newbie-ness by asking a question. The blurb on the AliExpress listing says that .STL, .GCODE and .OBJ formats are supported. Does that mean that an .STL file can be sent directly to the printer? I would have expected to have had to slice it first and send itby Ynothna - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotewunderkind That's most unfortunate to hear, Mikey. My kit is still winging its way to me. Is there a packing list in the box (or on the SD card) so we can check off kit contents before starting the build? Nelson Kennedy Rolleston, NZ That's exciting! Hopefully it all goes together for you smoothly. This is the packing list mine came with, it was on the SD Card with all the other filesby Ynothna - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I'm getting pretty happy with the quality of my prints, it's been getting much better. I want to upgrade my nozzle next to get some finer detail on my smaller prints. How do I know which nozzle to get? I want to go with Micro Swiss because I want to print with coarser filaments (like glow in the dark, carbon fibre, etc). The shop I'm buying from is: But I can order something online instead ifby Ynothna - Extruded Aluminum Frames
QuoteMIKEYMCC Yeah I think its one of the updates. There was no space for a separate box for motors, the box was much smaller than I though it would be to be honest. Ah ok, I bought mine last month so it must have been very recent, or the company I got mine through hasn't got the update yet. Mine was smaller than I expected too, but I was only missing an adapter for the Z motors.by Ynothna - Extruded Aluminum Frames
QuoteMIKEYMCC Just ordered and received the FLSUN 3D I3 kit, bit gutted as straight away I am missing the motors and the glass panel. Thats without going through with a fine tooth comb and counting each nut and bolt. Quick glance though it seems I have everything else. Can anyone remember what box the motors were in? OR rather what other parts they were inside with? Thanks for any help in advanby Ynothna - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Mine actually shipped with 1.1 RC7 because it only arrived last week. I've made minor changes to some of the settings in the configuration.h and configuration_adv.h but nothing drastic. Marlin 1.1 RC7by Ynothna - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Thanks Rufinus, that would be awesome. I'm running RC7 for Marlin if a copy of my firmware files would be helpful for anyone. I'm using a RAMPS 1.4 plus.by Ynothna - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Does anyone have a model for a cooling fan attachment that fits the carriage? Or a model for a replacement carriage that is compatible with a cooling attachment? I went and printed a diicooler attachment and didn't realize it wouldn't fit, haha. I haven't been able to find a design that would work.by Ynothna - Extruded Aluminum Frames