Thanks for your replay. Like I mentioned the problem seems to be at Google Chrome. Even switching the OS does not help, but Firefox does. Maybe there is a problem with the Chrome version. I am runnig "Version 42.0.2311.135 (64-bit)" now at Linux. Using the M999 G-Code worked finel with the Web interface from DC42 until yesterday. Now the Web interface from DC42 suffers from the same problem, soby Treito - Ormerod
Now I am not able to etablish any connection anymore. Pronterface shows me an error: "Webserver: rejecting message with: too few command words" Edit: I am very sorry. I could nearly find the problem and now this is really very strange. After sending the M999 command Google chrome looses the connection and you have no chance to reconnect. Even if you change your OS (in my case from Linux to Winby Treito - Ormerod
Thanks Dave. But in my case it was indeed the connection from the belt to the heated bed. I was astonished that the belt could get loose in that way. As soon as my printer works again and I have enough time I will print the Y belt clamp either in ABS or HIPS.by Treito - Ormerod
There is no Problem with the config g. With your Webinterface everything is fine.by Treito - Ormerod
I even do not know it exactly now. To be honest there was a third fault - the SD card is weak and so I exchanged it. This does not solve the main problem. I exchanged DC42's web interface with yours (copied to SD card using my PC). I started your interface. At first I changed the language to German. I then accidentally added G32 with "auto-bed leveling" (I did not see that this was implementedby Treito - Ormerod
Okay I had to bugs at once. The USB cable is broken and somehow the Webinterface from Zombiepantslol kill my firmware or some setting. But it looked so great and also it is in my language. I am using the firmware from dc42 in version 1.04f.by Treito - Ormerod
Hello, I am unable to connect to my ormerod. The web interface can be loaded but it cannot connect. Also the USB connection does not work. Is my duet broken? [ 2090.175139] usb 6-10: new full-speed USB device number 19 using xhci_hcd [ 2090.328070] usb 6-10: device descriptor read/64, error -71 [ 2090.428949] xhci_hcd 0000:00:14.0: Setup ERROR: setup context command for slot 19. [ 2090.428953]by Treito - Ormerod
Many thanks. That was indeed the problem. I fixed it now for the moment. I will try to print the Y belt fasteners later. I think I should print them in ABS or HIPS. Lickily there were some photos how to mount them.by Treito - Ormerod
You can also try the blue scotch tape. I am printing with a bed temperature of 65° and the PLA stucks on the tape so hardly that I have even trouble to get the tile free.by Treito - Ormerod
Many thanks for your help. That was my first thought, too that the Y belt could have been slipped. I only used cable ties and I was sure that this would be enough. Maybe it was too late, but I checked the Y belt and I assumed that the belt was weak, but strong enough that slipping was no risk. Maybe I should teach my mechanical knowledge more. I totally can understand how your approved Z probe isby Treito - Ormerod
Hello, my Ormerod 1 lost its precision. I do not have any clue where I can look for the fault. Can anybody give me a hint? Circles look like ellipses. The x-dimension is to big. the 2nd layer does not fit the first layer in y-direction. I am using the firmware from dc42 Version 1.04f. X=0 is at the top of the picture. Part of my config.g ; RepRapPro Ormerod ; Standard configuration G Codes M1by Treito - Ormerod
Hello, thanks for the answer. Before I went to asleep I did exactly the steps you told. I was wondering why nobody else has been in trouble yet with the offsets except of me. I avoided to use higher values for the trigger threshold because sometimes the homing of the x-axis failed with the old files. I totally exchanged the homing files, changed my config.g a little bit and I lift the z-axis toby Treito - Ormerod
Thanks for the reply Because the M208 X-15 S1 command does not have any effect, I used the G10 command to define the X-Offset. That is why there is an offset of 15 between the coordinates. But I tested it without and it makes no difference. If I use the manually method I have no problem with the Z-Probe. We have nearly midnight here (only 75 mintes left) and so it is dark and I have a LED-lightby Treito - Ormerod
Hello, I use dc42 firmware 1.04f with an Ormerod 1 and the original Z-Probe. And now I have a strange problem: The auto-leveling gives me the following coordinates: Bed equation fits points [75.0, 20.0, 0.831] [75.0, 180.0, 1.142] [195.0, 180.0, 5.000] [195.0, 20.0, 5.000] Manually I use this G30 P0 X60 Y20 Z0 G30 P1 X60 Y180 Z0.4 G30 P2 X180 Y180 Z2.5 G30 P3 X180 Y20 Z2.4 S The above levby Treito - Ormerod
Hello, after nearly one year I managed it to print it roughly acceptable.I used Cura 15.02.1 with a layer height of 0.1mm and a print speed of 20mm/s. Material was PLA.by Treito - Ormerod
Hello, with the new firmware I have some trouble with the temperature readings, especially the bed temperature. How can I get the right values for the parameters? I played with them, they seems to be acceptable now, but some form of calculation would be nice. The first time, I had over 180°C bed temperature (according to the readings). But I like the new features. My extruder always was 10° tooby Treito - Ormerod
I had the same problem. Take a look here: Fan replacementby Treito - Ormerod
I forgot to mention that printing directly on glass turns out to be better as printing on kapton tape. But with the filaments that I use at the moment it is not possible to print directly on glass. In my doubt I tried the blue Scotchtape and I only can repeat myself: It sticks like hell. But this is still not enough for my PLA, but ABS is working now.by Treito - Ormerod
I just tried the blue tape from Scotch. That sticks like hell, even much better as the delivered Kapton tape.by Treito - Ormerod
Quotejstck I don't think different temperature should be a huge factor between spools of "normal PLA". Transparent/translucent ones probably require different temperatures to work, as it is a bit different from regular PLA. Maybe there is no differnce, but I could extrude the delivered filament at 185°C without any problems. My yellow-half-transparent (or how it is called) does not extrude at 18by Treito - Ormerod
I also know this problem even though I was not able to print very much. The delivered PLA filament printed fine with a temperature setting 185/57 even direrctly on the glass bed. My second filament needs a temperature of 200 at 185 it cannot leave the extruder. And it does not stick very good even on kapton tape. Maybe it is because it is a transparent filament. I often read that you often have tby Treito - Ormerod
Thanks for testing it. This looks a little bit better than my tries. The side walls should be 0.5mm. Silly question, but have you been able to remove the part in one piece? What kind of filament did you use? I had much more problems with PLA filament (yellow/ transparent) from synergy, I do not know why. Which version of Slic3r did you use?by Treito - Ormerod
Hello, it would be nice, if somebody can help me please. I am trying to print a very small and thin part for a collegue, but I am not able to do this. Attached you can find the .STL-file. I think PLA would be the best material. Is it possible to print such a small part? If so, how can I do this? Kind regards, Svenby Treito - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts ... or just remove the nozzle duct part of the fan duct. I am very sorry, but I did not understand this. Which part should I remove? Quotedroftarts You can remove both fan parts, and fit a smaller 10mm thick fan too, which is how we ship the same hot end for our Mendel printers. And mounting the hotend directly to the fan? Quotedroftarts Make sure you read the ABS printing guide:by Treito - Ormerod
So here the technical data: The heat/fan duct you can find here: One piece hot end air duct The fan is from sunon, model no.: EB40201S2-000U-999 Datasheet of fan But if possible you should prefer: MB40201V2-000U-A99 (better bearing) Fan models overview As you can see at the last link, there are fans with a higher flow rate but less noise than the delivered one.by Treito - Ormerod
Quotedc42 1. Do you have any evidence that your inlet duct reduced the airflow? The airflow resistance provided by the heatsink and the heatsink/fan ducting is greater than the supplied fans were designed for, which is why there is so much backwash from them. A well-designed inlet duct should increase the airflow, by better matching the angle of the incoming air to the blade pitch, and so partlyby Treito - Ormerod
I exchanged the fan and now it is really quiet. But it is not that easy. I cut off the old fan (and tested it without any mounting and the bearing is definitely broken. Does this happen often?) and soldered the new fan to the old wires and used heatshrink sleeving. But the new fan has no possibility to counter sink (or how is it called?) so the heads of the screws are on the top of the fan. But iby Treito - Ormerod
Or my of two parts existing (and original delivered) hotfan duct is a little bit warped. There is a space of round about 3mm between both parts at one side.by Treito - Ormerod
I would prefer option 2: Using iamburny's onepiece hotfan duct. That gives also some extra space. At the moment the fan can pass the duet enclosure, but there are only some millimeters left, so I would not have any chance to mount any fan duct.by Treito - Ormerod