Quotethe_digital_dentist PEI costs $15 for 300x300 mm x 30 mils via amazon.com. How much cheaper does it have to get? You can get a piece of cast aluminum tooling plate that comes already milled flat for $40 retail, and if you live in Milwaukee or Minneapolis, you can get it for $15 at Howard Precision Metals. Considering the time it will save, the minor difference in cost, and the guaranteeby Origamib - General
I highly doubt you have humidity issues in your spools in Colorado... I keep my spools in large Tupperware boxes filled with orange/green desiccant. It changes colour when it has taken on too much water, and then I bake it in the oven to renew it. Silica gel can also be baked to renew it but you won't know when. its ready. The popping is the moisture in the filament boiling, expanding and finalby Origamib - General
QuoteMCcarman I have some suspicions that water absorption causes this. It is only a suspicion. You are clearly extruding enough material for it to "squish" and its obviously hot enough to flow and to bond with its neighbour. So why does it not stick to the bed? Hence I suspect there are small bubbles trapped under the filament that expand and cause it to lift. If it is too squished, the new beaby Origamib - General
I reckon PrintBite is some form of self leveling polymer, so maybe epoxy will work? Potentially cheaper then PEI... There are so many variants of thermosetting polymers / epoxies though, will they all work the same? I doubt it will stay hard enough to keep the PCB flat but as a print surface it may work, and by the time you have enough I wonder if 5mm tooling plate would be lighter and easier toby Origamib - General
My guess is the bed isn't level... Filament is being squished in this area and has increased contact with nozzle making it burn.by Origamib - General
My first guess would be temperature fluctuations but you said you checked that. What happens if you change the thermistor in bed and hotend? Or use bang bang/pwm? If it's the ball screw it should be visible under a microscope or macro lens. Does anything obstruct the filament path at all? Could it be the filament becoming tight on the spool and then uncoiling a bit?by Origamib - General
+1 for duet.... The fans are the noisiest things on my printer now.by Origamib - General
Back pressure is a good point, too little and you will just create turbulence inside the tube with little flow between the input and output. Most fans are designed to have the highest flow when there is no resistance, so they work well in a computer tower or similar application.by Origamib - General
That's a good point... Even a 50mm blower fan takes in 4 cubic feet per minute, so would in theory cycle the air quite well.by Origamib - General
How loud will it be? Having 4-5 fans on my printer makes it a bit on the loud side as it is, without adding 6 more! How long does the carbon last for, how will you dispose/handle the carbon once its used? How much heat can this system take? Just a few questions that come to mind...by Origamib - General
Swiss clips are another option, used for attaching simple picture frames together: Personally I just use countersunk screws straight through the build surface. I lose out on 7-8mm but If I need to utilise that print area it is usually just a skirt anyway. I don't use a glass print bed though.by Origamib - General
Any comparisons to other bed materials like Printbite, PEI etc? As a comparison I can print a part like that on printbite. I printed a 60mm tube, 2mm wall thickness angled at 45 degrees the other day that was at least 100mm in height. Lokbuild certainly looks interesting, although its a shame about the colour and the massive logo. My printers isn't winning an award for prettiness any time sooby Origamib - General
Make the metal box the heat sink...no forced cooling necessary.by Origamib - General
QuoteRod Hi Total weight of parts.(attachment) 153grms total Rod. I believe the combined weight of a titan and a pancake is actually 150 grams, so perhaps lightweight direct drive extruders are the way forward? The only benefit your system gives is being able to use a more powerful motor although it has to be said I've seen so fby Origamib - Look what I made!
This is a really interesting set up. How light is it though? The weight of all the moving parts will need to weigh less then a simple direct drive extruder (e.g. titan and pancake stepper)by Origamib - Look what I made!
Perhaps take a look at the reviews for this switch.... Lots of burnt plastic going on! Also, this uses a kettle lead. A very standard mains power connector. You can buy a kettle lead connector and make your own, or better yet buy a pre-made one. I'd normally say make your own to your own specs, but if you're not comfortable with basic wiring perhaps best to steer clear of DIY stuff.by Origamib - General
In case anyone is struggling to source fans.... I'm now coming across quite a few different models of small blower fan (once you start digging!). Some are very similar but have slight differences. Some are quite expensive, but have higher power and output. I'll post all my finds in here, and edit this post as I find them. B0503AFB2-8 -- 30x10mm fan, 5v --- The cheapest and available in buby Origamib - General
Looks interesting, I've heard you just run them at 12v, have you had any problems with that so far? They are on the more expensive side as far as fans go and will have to be ordered from china... Might order a few and give it a go. Do you have any pictures of overhangs / bridges you've managed to print? Would be particularly interested in seeing some severe PLA overhangs (eg, the treefrog on thinby Origamib - General
Quoteshortyski13 Do you think the cooling scheme in this design will work well, or do you think 2 fans on either side is really needed? (Pictures attached). Essentially, I upgraded the 30mm fan on the V6 hotend heatsink to 40mm and ducted it, just to give that some extra cooling and help prevent creep at higher temperatures, and then used the stock 30mm fan that comes with the hotend to blow fanby Origamib - General
Whatever you plan to make, make sure you look at the limitations of designing for 3D printing.... Overhangs, bridging and support are all problems you might come across. You may want to consider a CNC mill or a laser cutter to make large-ish enclosures. Not trying to turn you away from 3D printing, but its important to understand the limitations of the technology.by Origamib - General
Since burning out the screw terminal for the heat bed I now periodically check the temperature of them using an IR heat sensor... Perhaps overkill, but it gives me peace of mind that if they are running cool, then they are properly secured!! This was caused by a a lack of crimp, and probably the wire working loose somehow.by Origamib - General
It's a really interesting solution to overhangs, that's for sure. Interested to see what they use as a slicer, and if current firmware/ slicers will start to support it. if so I might have to build a reprap to a similar design....by Origamib - General
I just use 1x V+/-, no need for 2x like on other electronics. Just make sure to use proper gauge wire and crimp the ends using the supplied bootlace crimpsby Origamib - General
The spectra strip I've ordered does not have any info on how much flex it can give, although I'm designing it to be pretty modular and easy to replace so if it goes I can replace or cough up for the price of some flexible ribbon. I've found some that is cheaper then the above on RS components, but its still 3x the cost of what I've got now @ £90 for a 30m reel.by Origamib - General
I'm hoping to simplify the wiring a bit using an idc connector on the ribbon cable that has 2.54mm pitch pins designed to be mounted to pcb boards. Instead of mounting it on a board, I'll be mounting it via 2 m3 holes on the idc connector. All parts will then have short wires with Dupont connectors to attach to the idc. I made sure to buy high quality spectra strip wire, although nothing as priceby Origamib - General
So I'm looking into using ribbon cable and IDC connectors to make some nicer, and hopefully more modular wiring for my hotend. My hope at the moment is to wire in only fans, thermistors and maybe an IR sensor. This should take up 9 of the 14 wires in my ribbon cable (4 for fans, 3 for IR sensor, 2 for thermistor). Would it be possible to add motors or heater cartridges to the ribbon cable, or wilby Origamib - General
I wouldn't discount the E3D titan so quickly... It's injection moulded and much stronger then a printed part. All the important bits of the design have bearings, metal or delrin and It couldn't be that light if it was made of aluminium, and I'm not sure it could be done in carbon fibre? It's been an absolute workhorse for me. Saying that though, I've been looking into redesigning it. I've boughby Origamib - Mechanics
I think most changes are actually done for money, rather then the love of reprap... If you're a guy with big ideas, chances are you don't want to give them away for free. Other then that, the big ideas are usually the result of one person's innovation, and people flocking to that idea. Come up with an idea, develop it, make it open source and you will find people who want to collaborate with youby Origamib - General
Very nice! I opted for the 40x10mm fans as I just couldn't find smaller at a decent price... I'm not totally happy with the fans, but they deliver enough air I think. The blades stick out of the case by about 0.5mm or so, and instead of trapping air inside and forcing it out the exit, it tends to just chuck air out the blades if there is too much back pressure. I originally tried using 4mm brassby Origamib - General
New fan shroud design.... This time more compact! Same 40mm blower fans, with a DC42 IR sensor mount. Don't really use the sensor personally, but I do have one lying around and one day i'll put it to use.... This mount shaves off around 20-30mm of width compared to the last mount, and requires no mounting screws / clips. It is simply a circular mount that you slip on, and then becomes sandwichedby Origamib - General