Leveling each nozzle to the bed may not be as important as you think.... each nozzle only has to be levelled to the bed if it is used on the first layer. Slight misalignment in nozzles may then cause print problems such as leaving marks on just printed layers, oozing, Z height innacuracies depending on nozzle used and of course inactive nozzles flicking the print off the bed. All of the above prby Origamib - Reprappers
Looks great. Ive noticed many DLP printers use a wiper on the vat but yours doesn't, is this why the printer is constantly re-dipping the part? What are the advantages/disadvantages of this? Do you plan to make an enclosure for this? I assume the enclosure also helps extend the life of the resin in the VAT by protecting it from UV exposure as well as having obvious safety benefits (am I right inby Origamib - General
Quotechris33 i think you all out of order trying to guess what mutley used for his gears im sure that does infringe anything they have set up between them with the license agreement, please could you stop using mutleys gears into any comparison to the zesty nimbles please as they not the same I don't have any license agreement with mutley, nor do I have any affiliations with either product so Iby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Looks interesting. Have you tried it with PLA or other filaments yet? I love Printbite, but its power lies with everything but PLA in my experience. Its possible but requires more tuning in compared to say blue tape or glue. Colorfabb nGen sticks to printbite amazingly well. Is there a big difference in height tuning in the above examples? Printbite sometimes requires dialing in down to +/- 0.0by Origamib - General
Check out colorfabb HT or XT. More expensive, but they come close to the properties of ABS and are still easier to print. Expect any printed mechanical parts to be rubbish in the long run though, making material choice mootby Origamib - General
I don't think anyone called you an idiot. It is kind of the standard on these forums to question everything. It isn't an insult, it is just curiosity and debate. To me, the bend radius is highly important as my designs tend to be compact, and utilise as much space as possible. With the drive cable exiting at 90degrees you may find your machine growing considerably in the XY axis and you may haby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Quotelkcl QuoteOutcastZeroOne custom made Zesty Nimble extruder here's the thing: zesty is extremely short on technical specs. they go into a lot of promotional aspects about how clever the shape is, but make absolutely no mention whatsoever about really critical things like the materials specification of the gears and the flexible driveshaft. i also note that there appears to be no outer casingby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
QuoteLykle Good points Origamib, I looked at how I could lower the filament as well, but in the end it needs to be vertical by the time it enters that hot end. Using an Aero style hot end will lower that point, but the issue remains. (btw, I found old PLA to be the most brittle filament, you know anything more brittle?) And as to the print area, yes, it all depends on how the drive cable and otby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
I saw this in there recent newsletter. It is an interesting idea but unfortunately it doesn't address the issue that the filament must also enter from the top. On brittle filaments especially you might find that the bend radius allowed by the filament is not too dissimilar to that of the drive cable. If so the drive cable may as well be routed with the filament path. Also, the bend in the driveby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Glad to see you're progressing with the piezos Few questions.. -- if the piezo fails, what precautions are there to stop the nozzle smashing into the bed? This is a worst case scenario assuming the printer was left to it's own devices and the user was not there to stop it. Can it be written into firmware to issue an emergency stop? With an IR probe the Z end stop will stop damage since the pby Origamib - General
I bought a 3doodler as a gift... it works but jams a lot and it is tricky to make anything that isn't a crazy blobby mess. Great for an hours fun... it doesn't come out much anymore though !by Origamib - General
QuoteQdeathstar I am starting to get to the point where i need to plan how to to mount my bed to the printer. The easiest way seems to use screws and springs at three points like a prusa i3. However, that isn't the path many have chose. I see little balls placed under the bed. What are they? How do you secur the bed to the round balls? How to you machine the aluminum plate so that the bottom of iby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
QuoteTrakyan They also tend to have more backlash, but this is not really an issue for the z axis as it doesn't change direction much and has a pretension downwards due to gravity. When it does change direction it is rather slow and small movements and gravity helps get rid of any backlash. If you're paranoid you can make/buy an anti backlash nut, basically two nuts separated by a spring but thaby Origamib - Reprappers
Quotegalaxyman7 I'm just gonna do a little shameless self promotion: I would love if some people would implement it on their printers. It's worked super well so far. Very interesting.... do normal retractions not affect the position of the nozzle ? I have had a similar idea where a motor would tug on a Bowden instead to move the hotend. Extra wiring of course, but it can be kept off the gantry.by Origamib - Mechanics
QuoteRGN01 I know that there are those who seem intent on rubbishing the Nimble using this thread and others (nudge, nudge, wink, wink) but perhaps the reason that users are not posting about it is that they are too busy printing using it and enjoying doing so! Quote And, last but not least, the support from Zesty tech is second to none. I don't think that Brian and Lykle sleep. This is in staby Origamib - General
Purrfect looking print you got thereby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Quoteadam440 Can you make some kind of list about advantages and disadvantages of CoreXY, H-Bot and possibly other drive systems (like D-Bot) with hot-end moving in X/Y direction? D bot is a coreXY system, otherwise the pros and cons of all the printers with Z moving bed systems are very similar. In a sturdy well thought out build, there would be only miniscule differences in print quality betweby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Quote691175002 I can't provide any definitive answers since there are so many other choices that need to be made. My view is that too many people consider H-Bot to be an inferior predecessor to CoreXY. Both designs have their place. Any system with a single block per rail is unquestionably better as a CoreXY. If you are running two blocks in an H-Bot, the cost of a few extra inches of rail isby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
I use simplify3D these days... The only issue I've found is that sometimes it misses a layer, or adds in a random solid layer. I believe that this is most likely misinterpretation of the .stl file as you say. Simplify3D have not released an update in quite sometime to fix this which I find worrying. It is easy to solve though, often moving the item slightly, changing the layer height or exportiby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
The guides are out there. To compile it all into one source would be quite a book.... Like most complicated subjects though... It's sometimes easier to dive in and figure out the questions you need answering then to have it explained from scratchby Origamib - General
It looks very similar to v slot extrusions. V slot and wheels work great, but the problem I've had is that the 3mm aluminium plates flex quite a lot. I've noticed it the most on the openbuilds build plate and the universal gantry plate over a 2060 extrusion. My next build is going to use their c beam plates (5 or 6mm thick I think). Seems much stronger, and they place the wheels closer giving lesby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Can't say I've had any problems with petg, but my experience is limited to colorfabb nGen and HT and they are likely not a pure petg polymer. Going to get some of their economy petg soon and see how that goes.by Origamib - Printing
Looks like belt is not parallel going to the hotend gantry..belt would get tighter at extremes of X axis and may explain ovals. Also noticed you have twists in the belt which may cause the belts to ride on the pulleys flange sometimesby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
The nuts don't *need* to stay in the plastic, just place them whichever way around they won't fall off. They only have to be tight enough to grip the nut. My personal option is heat press insert the nut. Make the nut hole slightly too small, heat up nut and drop in place. Not too hot, just hot enough to slightly melt plastic. Can also use a soldering iron to heat nuts, but a lighter will do.by Origamib - General
Quote691175002 If your build uses genuine linear guide with two well spaced blocks per rail I think H-Bot is superior. A rule of thumb is that the blocks centers should be seperated by at least half of the distance between rails. Is this cheaper then the idlers for CoreXY? Not that cost is my priority, but its the only point I can see in why you choose Hbot over CoreXY. All the other reasonsby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Are you sure it is printing at 200mm/s? Small parts means it will actually spend most of its time accelerating. Also, I'm not sure I would rate those pieces as high quality myself.by Origamib - Extruded Aluminum Frames
That may be because white reflects the heat.. A fair test would have white nGen and XT as wellby Origamib - General
I think testing the quality is quite hard...we rely heavily on manufacturers specs for this which just arnt available, or are false if you get from cheap Chinese .by Origamib - General
QuoteDjDemonD I think that whilst lokbuild and printbite are discreet products Pei comes from a wide range of sources and I'm willing to bet is quite variable. Sounds about right... It's also known as Ultem (its product name) and they make hundreds of variations for specific applicationsby Origamib - General
Quotesimspeed Here is a redesign using 3" ABS pipe with two 120 mm inline case fans. The center section is clear PVC with both Hepa and Charcoal filters sitting on thin stainless rods. The center section would use quick release ring clamps to allow the disc filters to be serviced or replaced. I don't see this needing to be program controlled; just a on/off/speed manual switch should do the jobby Origamib - General