I have been printing some quite thin pieces (4 layers thick) and the corners curl up about 0.5mm during the print. I have my heated bed at 85deg C (measured with IR thermometer) I have tried adding a brim but it does not really do anything. Any other suggestions?by uMinded - General
Awesome, Thanks. I will PayPal you right away. I will put my address in the transfers comments.by uMinded - General
Any way I can pay say $20 to get one in the mail? My printer is pretty much useless without this mod.....by uMinded - General
Awesome thanks, I sent him an email. While I am waiting would this be an issue with ABS? I imagine the higher melting temp would help with the creeping.by uMinded - General
I am running a QU-BD MBE extruder on my Prusa I3 and having some strange issues. I can print great quality until it seems that an air pocket forms in the heat barel. I print say 3-5 layers and then the PLA begins to turn dotty as if the temperature was too low and after about a layer it stops extruding. If I pause the print and release tention I can push about 10mm of filament in without any resby uMinded - General
Request has been filled, Thanks. Thread can be closed.by uMinded - For Sale
Request has been filled, Thanks. Thread can be closed.by uMinded - Wanted
The whole shebang. Plus a Wades J-Mount extruder and single plate bearing holders.by uMinded - Wanted
I am looking to buy the LM8UU single plate version of the current Prusia i3. If you are interested in a trade I have some Misumi 2020 to offer, see THIS THREAD Otherwise please post an asking price! Thanks!by uMinded - Wanted
I am looking to trade some of my extra Misumi 2020 extrusions to get a set of printed parts for the Prusia i3 Single Plate, LM8UU. (Current version with screw pinch holders for the bearings) What I have to offer: (1) NFS5-2020-700 (700mm) (6) NFS5-2020-400 (400mm) (16) HBLFSNK5-SST (Cast 90deg with centering tabs and hardware) Anybody willing to do a swap? Thanks!by uMinded - For Sale
Waitaki: Usually the filament will drop strait down and start to coil on the print bed. Sometimes the filament will bend upward and if it touches the nozzle then it will just start to clump on the nozzle tip until I wipe it off. Usually I just pull the clump off the nozzle with tweezers and every so often I wipe off the sides of the nozzle with some steel wool.by uMinded - General
I have a 0.35mm nozzle that when it extrudes the molten filament will curl up and try to melt onto the nozzle. I read somewhere that this is behaviour of a partially clogged nozzle. 1) What is the best way to clear a PLA blockage? 2) I am going to be switching to ABS in a few weeks so what is the best way to clear that blockage? 3) I have a rubbery makeup pad remover slit and surrounding theby uMinded - General
I have had nothing but problems with filament quality the last year. When my supply from Ultimachine ran out I went to other suppliers as their shipping was murder to Canada but I have since spent 3x more and have not printed a SINGLE THING! My problem is simple, I can extrude at 250+mm/min without a care in the world but when I extrude slowly the filament jams and strips out. From the Printingby uMinded - General
Well they do turn freely, they just require a bit of force to jump to the next detent. I imagine its a delicate game between the mass of the delta assembly and the strength of the motors as weaker stepper require less force to move unpowered. Such a simple question but I never saw anybody ask it. Thanks!by uMinded - Delta Machines
Comment Removed: I was at work when I read about V-Slot, just discovered the OpenBuilds store. They solved my problem by not even offering a single bearing v-wheel.by uMinded - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Ok so this seems like a simple question but on delta bots that use belts to drive the arms when I hit E-Stop or reset the arduino what is stopping the print head from tumbling down and smooshing the print??!by uMinded - Delta Machines
My #1 questions is: How do you plan on keeping the bearings in the delrin v-wheels? I have built a machine out of MakerSlide which is similar and works great except with my extruder mounted cantilevered after a few weeks of usage I need to re-seat the bearings before they fall out. I tried to put the lip on the side of the most force but that only wins half the battle. It would be nice to see eby uMinded - Extruded Aluminum Frames
In that cantilevered configuration you would get 2x the force from the screw applied to the filiment. Here is my setup Those little clamps are VERY strong (cant put them on your finger as it hurts) so I am using the back to provide my spring action.by uMinded - General
What sort of pressure and torque settings are good for the MK7 extruder gears?? Should I have as much pressure with my idler and the pololu at maximum current or is their a sweet spot to avoid grinding the filiment up? Right now printing at 10mm/s I can get 6-8 layers down before the drive gear is coated with dust, I figured it was skipping every so often but even with the temp at 230deg for PLby uMinded - General
I have been having some horrible luck with extruders this year, it's been months since my last print as my last two nozzles oozed all over. I decided to get the QM-BD MBE extruder and it does not ooze one bit buuuut... My setup: QM-BD MBE extruder 42ozin NEMA17 1.75mm PLA MK8 Drive gear 1/16 microstepping (105steps/mm) Bulldog clip idler 10mm/min print speeds for everything I tried to use thisby uMinded - General
james glanville Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > a weak pva solution as in diluted white Elmer's glue?by uMinded - General
I was originally printing onto acrilic but its surface melted slightly and soon was to uneven to use. Now I'm printing on picture frame glass with painters tape. I will eventually get a heated bed though. I really like the results from acetone vapor but do you need to boil it with a cold lid for it to work or can I just put it on a platform in a can for a few hours?by uMinded - General
Well I spent all last week and this weekend fine tuning my new printer and I sit down yesterday afternoon to print something and the idler block on my wades extruder cracked off! I spent the afternoon rebuilding it and went to go print and ejected my brass tube from the PTFE. So I now have a useless hot end and broken extruder held together with krazy glue. I am going to just buy an all metal exby uMinded - General
Well I did some final tweeking and got an awesome print. I sanded it a bit to just even it out and its good enough I might even try giving it a paint job. I tried printing some of the game tiles tonight and that did not go as well. I can print the 6 layer base perfectly but the patterns on each tile are a different matter. Slic3r's toolpath is so random that the head has a tendency of knocking oby uMinded - General
I took your advice, summery below. - I got some fireplace door insulation and wrapped my hot end and kapton taped it up. Regulates the nozzle a lot better in general. - Put a fan directly blowing on the part being printed, made a HUGE difference I think. - Slowed the prints down to 30mm/s and printed two items at once so each layer would have a cooling break. - Lowered the temperature 4 degreesby uMinded - General
I have a first successful print! I had a fan on my hot end but it was causing my hot end to cool down between layers and the firmware was stopping extrusion. Once I turned the fan off I can print without much difficulty. I got the pocket tactics "Cear" base piece printed with 0.2 layer height, 30mm perimiter and infill speeds, and 1.1 extrusion multiplier. It took exactly 60min to print. Now tby uMinded - General
So I set my layer height to 0.3mm. I can not print the 40x10.stl calibration object AT ALL. I barely get more than a few whisps of plastic layed down no matter what my settings. I measured some of the filament that oozes out of the nozzle and its 0.42mm, So I switched over to one of the pieces from pocket tactics. I can get the first 5-6 layers to print before their isn't enough material to stby uMinded - General
mm/min makes since that their that high. I figured it was /sec as that's what the program wants and the firmware uses... As you can see from the link above my extruder is only putting out a tiny amount of filiment. I can extrude continuously as 220deg at my firmware max of 100 and it is calibrated correctly. I used Printrun and ran 80mm at 100 without a single skip.by uMinded - General
I have got to be doing something wrong here as I have tried to print the _40x10.stl for calibration and get: Slic3r 0.7.2b & 0.9.7 (both produce the same output, just different paths): - Feedrates for all axis and extruder are WAY to high. I have the default settings in the speeds section (30mm perimiters, 60mm infill) but the gcode is asking for F1800 on extruder, F7800 on Z and F1800 on Xby uMinded - General
OK so I have done many prints on a simple shape to try different settings and see what works best. I have found what appears to be a bug on my version of Slic3r. In my speeds setting I set everything at 1mm/s which is ridiculously slow I know but my gcode that is output has G1 X... Y... F1500 no matter what I set my speeds to. I think that most of my infill issues are due to the fact that the raby uMinded - Slic3r