Is there a way to "manually" correct for build-inaccuracies in your firmware? Something like this: Or:by Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotethevisad QuoteKoenig Well the carriages of those are not a direct replacement, the boltholes on the MGN12H is 20*20mm CC apart (Width/Height) and misumis carriages are either 25*20mm or 20*15mm, doesn't matter much though it's easy enough to just drill a couple of new holes in the carriages if you choose to with 20*15mm, otherwise you will have design new plastic parts for the carriages. EDby Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotethevisad QuoteKoenig Are you about to change your rails? I tried with some rails from igus, but they were no good, those plastic bearings just have to much clearance which resulted in very inaccurate prints, at least the rails I tried with, $250 down the drain.... So I ended up ordering some middle-cheap MGN12 from china (reading reviews very thoroughly) and they were miles better than theby Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotethevisad Quotefattmann Quotewrangellboy I had to widen mine significantly, the bolt holes lined up fine afterwards and I haven't seen any strength issues. I also had to file the corner pieces considerably to get the towers into them. All part of the adventure! Good to know I'm not the only one. I would disagree with the adventure part... not the level of quality control I expect of a $4by Koenig - Delta Machines
Quoteappdev007 Sorry, I can't be sure, but I think you are showing us views of one of the 45 degree rotated cylinders on . If you haven't already done so, I would open the STL up in a STL viewer and rotate it around to verify that the output of the slicer is really at fault. The slicer might be doing exactly what the source STL is telling it to. If that isn't the issue then I'm going to guess itby Koenig - Reprappers
I have problems slicing a to "upgrade" to my printer with. See this: Now I have tried other slicers as well, Simplify3D and Cura they all give different results regarding the holes but none to my satisfaction. This is how Sli3r does it, creating a bigger hole inside... How am I going to get the threads to stick in that... This is Simplify3D, creating a hole in a tube in a hole.... Whenby Koenig - Reprappers
Quotedc42 QuoteKoenig Might I ask why you choose a smaller motor for the extruder? The 17HS19-1684S has too much torque for the geared extruder that came with my T3P3 Mini Kossel kit. To get the right amount of force (so that it the nozzle gets temporarily obstructed, it skips steps instead of grinding through the filament), I have to reduce the current to 400 to 500mA. However, this reduces theby Koenig - Delta Machines
QuoteLarsK Then install the nozzle so it has full contact to the heating block, then screw in the heatbreak - when installing the heatbreak wrap it at the heating block side with PTFE tape (like you would seal a pipe). When screwing it in pay attention that it is very important that your nozzle and heatbreak end up meeting each other. Sorry for the hijack. Does that wrapping in PTFE-tape gby Koenig - Delta Machines
QuoteKnicknac My pulleys are 20 tooth, I counted them the last time we talked about this. What line do I look at for steps/mm and microstepping? This line in configuration.h "#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT" covers the steps/mm Regarding the microsteps it is up to the jumpers on the RAMPS see this: , not the right stepper driver but it shows the jumpers which controls the microstepping. Asby Koenig - Reprappers
QuoteKnicknac Hello again everyone, I just realized that my steps per millimeter must be off because I made an adjustment to be able to do the paper test and the nozzle does not move the amount I plugged in. In fact, I ran into the table. (And now I'm a little upset) I'm going to have to learn how that formula works and how to measure it. I'm working with a set of 6" calipers and a machined piecby Koenig - Reprappers
QuoteRattfink Does anyone have any tips for tightening the recessed nylock nut holding the rods on the carriage? There's a little slop on one of mine I used a very small screwdriver that I wedged between the nut and the plastic and then an allenwrench at the other end of the bolt.by Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotedmould Quoterhmorrison Depends on your filament supplier! You have to know the width of the filament when you slice your object. If you buy another roll of filament and it's width is different it will print differently unless you reslice the object. For example, recently I printed out an object with a filament width of 2.8 mm. It didn't come out as well as expected. I measured the filamentby Koenig - Slic3r
I'm trying to slice this: I have rotated it a bit so that it lies flat on the printbed. When it comes to the holes that runs 45 degrees though the "ears" I found that sli3r does something strange, the "inside" of the holes is way to big. The holes are supposed to have the same dimensions throughout as the plastic is supposed to counter the threads of the screw. What can be done?by Koenig - Slic3r
Quotetadawson Adjust "DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET" until it is correct. This is in Configuration.h, and unfortunately, is not in EEPROM, so will require recompile/reload to set. PS: Just looked it up . . . To lower the effector in the center, you increase the value. Start small . . . a little goes a long way . . . - Tim You can use M665 to set it in EEPROM, no need to recompile. From what I uby Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 I am using them, see . The top corner pieces come with an idler assembly, which is held in place by a diamond-shaped plate that also comes with the kit. You need to supply two 10mm bearings to complete the assembly. I believe the early metal corner kits were supplied without the idler assembly, but if you ask Robotdigg they will send them on. I actually think he refers to Folgertech'by Koenig - Reprappers
Quotedc42 Quoteshadowphile Hi Dave, I have been relying on your kossel-to-duet blog and it has become my bible for this process, thank you! I have a bunch of parts on order so I'm still lining up my ducks. (or is that an American expression?) You have suggested 0.9 degree motors but I have seen multiple comments that those and/or 1/32-step drivers are too fast. I would think the Duet could easiby Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotebonze77 The extruder motor moves from side to side (like vibrating) but doesn't turn fully. The step stick is fine and the motor is fine. It is a geared extruder and hasn't printed anything yet. I am using marlin and have included my config file. Help appreciated Take a look at this thread:by Koenig - Reprappers
Quoteo_lampe I bet, next year when prices for PETG dropped to ABS level, no one will print in ABS anymore, unless he has to. The only problem I see is, Bowden style printers might have problems with PETG, since it is a bit stickier than PLA? I´ve only ran one sample of PETG, but this one was sticky. -Olaf I'm having some difficulties with this, ordered some blue PETG from reprap.me to try. Whenby Koenig - Reprappers
Quotedc42 If it's a Nema 17 motor and the coils are 1.8 ohms each, then the rated current of the motor is much higher than 0.4A, probably more like 1,5A. You can also check how hot the motor is getting at 0.4A, because at the rated current it will almost certainly be too hot to touch for more than a second or two. If there is a part number on the motor, look up its specifications on the web. Thiby Koenig - Reprappers
Now I have another problem with this, can't get it to produce enough force to push the filament in a good way. I do not know how much current this motor can stand. I have my vref at 343mV right now, and from the looks of it this seems to be only a 0.4A motor. When I measured the coils they were 1.8Ohms each if that tells anything. Bought it because of the gearbox and thought it would produce mby Koenig - Reprappers
Quotecman8 Ok. So I bought a new nozzle and change it and it still seeps out from the nozzle and from the heater block. What Settings do you guys use for extrusion and extrusion speed on pronterface? Mine ar set at 30mm at 300mm/min speed. Is that way to off? That most likely does not have anything with a setting to do, you just haven't got your nozzle tight enough. Heat up the hotend to ~230Cby Koenig - Delta Machines
Quoteo_lampe All you need is an multimeter for ohm-measure. Find out, which of the 6? wires are the coils or only the centerpoints of the coils ( half the resistance ) Then you have 4 wires sorted out, representing two coils, which needs to be connected to the Ramps: one coil to the inner two pins, the other coil to the outer two pins. If it still doesn´t run, switch around ONE of the coils. Wheby Koenig - Reprappers
Quotecat.farmer Check the wiring. Just becaue they have the same plug doesn't mean they are wired the same Sure but I can't find any info on the motor anywhere.by Koenig - Reprappers
I bought one of these: But I can not get the motor to turn. It has the same connector as my old extruder-motor so I just replaced it. My previous motor was a little bit bigger and did not have a gearbox, since this motor is smaller I adjusted the motorcurrent to 0.245 vref, 4988 stepstick and a 0.4A motor it seems. Even tried to change back to my old motor and it turned just fine at that setby Koenig - Reprappers
Quotecman8 so im super lost. i try the m666 gcode and my endstops still dont offset. what the hell am i doing wrong here Here is a good video on how to go about it: Hope it helps.by Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotethevisad Made some choices to replace all of the plastic parts on the machine with aluminum parts. Despite my best efforts, my effector and motor mounts were showing signs of warping due to the heat. These parts decrease the interior dimensions by an additional 10 mm. I received my replacement Duet and this time the USB header was actually on the board. I soldered the lower two ground connby Koenig - Delta Machines
QuoteTaz-dig I just printed this.The walls have separation in them. You can see the wall not smooth as well. Settings as follows, .2mm layer height 20% infill 2600 mm/min on print speed Looks like you have lash somewhere. "They are adjusted just enough to get the play out of the carriage but not over tightened." I don't think there should be any "play", the carriages should be supertight, no wiby Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotewayno complaino did you get to the bottom of this? I've noticed my angles aren't quite right, not as extreme as in your pictures but its there. Might be different length of rods, lash or the towers not beeing exactly in alignment.by Koenig - Delta Machines
QuoteNeckBon3 I need a little help. My extruder stopped working, I check the motor (Works) I check the wiring harness (Works) I checked the driver (looked good but replaced it anyways) and im still getting nothing. You can see that the motor is getting power cause when it click to extrude it twitches, but doesnt spin and it hardens up so you can spin it by hand anymore. Any idea what I can do toby Koenig - Delta Machines
Quotethevisad QuoteKoenig I'm in the same situation myself and I've found this: It also seems one of my towers is a bit off, my prints come out a bit skewed. I thought getting the aluminium-corners would help against this, how wrong one can be... And still no heated bed above 90C, think this has something to do with the RAMPS (Duet underway) Koenig, check out the latest version of the firmwaby Koenig - Delta Machines