Thanks. It's an assembled kit with injection moulded corners. . It's an inexpensive Chinese kit. The top triangle has no wiggle room at all (the 2020 profiles are a snug fit), with the bottom one the profiles have about 0.05 mm space to move around, so there's really not that much room for adjustments. I have a framing square but as the (non-adjustable) bed is not fully level (with a precise spby siddharta - Delta Machines
I've opened a separate thread for my calibration issue to keep things tidy. The second (larger) Kossel Mini is being shipped on Mon so I expect to have it in a week or so. I asked to include all necessary mounting clamps for the heated bed and to change the color of the included filament roll (though all in all it's standard Chinese PLA that does not give very good results compared to the 3D Primby siddharta - Delta Machines
OK that seemed to have helped, I now have consistent nozzle heights at each of the towers. The Delta radius also appears correct as I'm getting the same nozzle height in the center. I still did not get perfect first layers and found that when moving the nozzle to positions between the towers the nozzle height is not the same as at the tower or center locations. Referring to the attached sketch,by siddharta - Delta Machines
Thanks, I swapped in the DuetWifi and set the current to 80% of the rated current. I'll lower the speed next to see if that helps and update this thread. Pby siddharta - Delta Machines
Thanks. I swapped in the Duet Wifi and that seems to have had a positive effect, I have the impression there is less variability (and much less stepper noise, it's amazing). Motor current is set to 80% or 1.2A of the rated 1.5A. I noticed the pulleys have what appears to be some shavings of belt rubber in the teeth though I can't see where it's grinding. The belts are not overly tight. Still notby siddharta - Delta Machines
I'm calibrating my Delta printer (a Kossel Mini clone by AnyCubic) by adjusting the endstops when moving to the following effector positions (homing inbetween) G0 F8000 X-68 Y-40 Z0 ; tower A G0 F8000 X68 Y-40 Z0 ; tower B G0 F8000 X0 Y80 Z0 ; tower C or as close as I can manage to the three towers. Then adjust the Delta radius so the effector is at the same height in position G0 F8000 X0 Yby siddharta - Delta Machines
Actually I _do_ have some calibration issues. When I send the effector to the same location repeatedly (homing between movements) the nozzle height is different every time and it varies quite a bit. I'm not certain why that is and it makes calibration difficult if not impossible. I have recalibrated it several times and it prints well between calibration but after a while things are off again. I'by siddharta - Delta Machines
Did you solve your endstop issues? Not sure which firmware you are using- the AnyCubic Marlin firmware? To adjust the Delta radius you should increase or decrease DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET depending on whether you want to lower or raise the center of the plane.by siddharta - Delta Machines
Sorry for the delay in replying. I did get it to work and it is workibg quite well, in fact I have ordered a second one. To calibrate it I adjusted the endstops (which are somewhat of a pain and may need to look for a better solution for that) with tje effector parked as close to a tower as possible, then adjusted DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET in configuration.h to have the nozzle well positioned in thby siddharta - Delta Machines
To be honest I ordered the Duet sooner than expected as the ordering page was indicating limited availability. I temporarily resolved the carriage issue with some good old superglue, but in my opinion the aluminium version is one of the more interesting upgrades as I prefer to have structural motion parts in metal rather than plastic. The carriages also have an M3 screw which you'll need for caby siddharta - Delta Machines
One of the plastic carriages mounted on the linear slides, on which the effector arms are mounted, is broken. The M3 thread in the plastic does not hold the screws, so the effector arms are not fixed. I was not able to rethread them with an M3 tap drill bit and an M4 bolt will not fit on the effector arms. I ordered some alu replacements off AliExpress, the printer cost has just gone up by 20 EUby siddharta - Delta Machines
I had two burrs on my P3steel frame from Orballo Printing and used a Dremel with sanding disk to remove them.by siddharta - Prusa i3 and variants
I received the missing nuts so that's good, just took a bit longer than I would have liked, but they got here. I think if you have an issue it's best to give them a call rather than mailing. Hugo has been responsive, I don't think there's any bad will, just maybe not as tightly organized as could be. The frame itself I'm perfectly happy with and all in all I would probably order from them again iby siddharta - Prusa i3 and variants
I've finished assembling the printer and am now in the process of setting it up. - The packaging it arrived in is the best I've seen so far. Everything is really well protected, shipping damage is unlikely. - All parts and screws are well labeled and the manual together with YouTue videos by AnyCubic walk you through the assembly with ease. Total time around 5-6 hrs. - The structural parts ofby siddharta - Delta Machines
The kit arrived today, in about a week all in all. 36,40 EUR in fees for customs. I'll unbox (and build!) it as soon as I have some time. This time I'll be sure to video the unboxing as the Chinese i3 clone I ordered months ago had a missing mainboard and they didn't want to send me a replacement, saying that it was definitely in the box (nooooo it wasn't). So, in total I paid 236,40 EUR for theby siddharta - Delta Machines
It looks like a standard i3 acrylic design, with all the pros (cheap! did I mention cheap?) and cons (questionable rigidity, may crack if overtightened and you'll want to retighten the frame regularly). Most of these kits will perform pretty similar and you should be able to get decent results. For a starter 3D printer on a (low low) budget those models do the job. Do get the heated bed option, yby siddharta - Prusa i3 and variants
That should be doable with a level shifter and a step up to 5V... the firmware is a bigger issueby siddharta - Duet
I'm in the Canary Islands. Will let you know about any import duties I have to pay. The shipment is sent by DHL so I likely won't escape them. Should arrive in a week or so, looking forward to it. I also ordered a Duet Wifi as an electronics upgrade.by siddharta - Delta Machines
Thanks. I thought it would be more of a firmware issue. Not much to be done then, I doubt this is an often requested feature. I'd get a PanelDue but I can't really justify the cost. The Duet Wifi alreadt didn't come exactly cheap (though probably worth the asking price).by siddharta - Duet
The answer to this question is probably "no" but I thought I'd ask anyway. I was wondering if Duet Wifi and the RepRapFirmware have support for the humblest of LCDs, the 2004. The reason I ask is that, while obviously one can use the web interface to monitor the printer, I like the simple LCDs to have an idea of progress and temperatures at a glance. The Delta I'd install the Duet Wifi in has onby siddharta - Duet
Quotecjackolass Hi ! I bought a frame and printed parts from orballo and ... omg ! they missed 3 parts on the frame and of course after 5 weeks and 2 resend (maybe or not ...) i don't have any parts that promise Printed parts are unusable and all the parts aren't in the package ... that's my experience but i'm still waiting for my parts ! ++ Did you receive the missing parts? Still haven't rby siddharta - Prusa i3 and variants
Well I pulled the trigger on this printer. The seller lowered the price to 200 EUR, including shipping and heated bed with power supply, for the "plus" version with linear guides and 230 mm build plate diameter - basically the 11.11 discounted price before the actual sale. Don't think one can go far wrong for that price.by siddharta - Delta Machines
Anycubic is selling a Delta on AliExpress that looks similar to the MicroMake Delta - injection moulded parts, pulleys or linear guides for linear motion, etc. I was thinking of getting the MicroMake one based on the thread in this forum but the price of the Anycubic is tempting, especially for the linear guide version. It does not have a heated bed (nor does it list one as an option) but the eleby siddharta - Delta Machines
That's by design and fine to start with - if the rods are straight, at least. Having those attached to the frame on both ends may actually worsen Z performance of the printer. You can look into Z wobble issues should you have any but if the rods are straight and movement along the Z axis is smooth you can leave it as is. The lack of frame rigidity is a bigger issue with those printers. If your lby siddharta - Prusa i3 and variants
Sorry to hear that and I hope they come through quickly with your missing frame parts. As far as I can tell I have all the frame parts, but they forgot to add the bolts, so with only the nuts I haven't gotten far . Still waiting on those nuts.by siddharta - Prusa i3 and variants
That's what I did with the power wires of the heated beds on the two Prusa's, the original wiring was an accident waiting to happen. I also had to swap out the power connector on one of the Chinese RAMPS boards for a genuine Molex and replace the heatbed MOSFETs for same reason.by siddharta - Delta Machines
Thanks for that, those prints do look good. I may opt for the non-Hiwin linear guide version then after all. Has anyone used this printer with Simplify3D? I'm also considering swapping out the electronics for a more capable board, Duet or Smoothieboard, so print speeds wouldn't be limited by computing bandwidth of an ATmega 2560 - apart from simply wanting to tinker with a Delta, after two Cartesby siddharta - Delta Machines
I'm considering getting this printer and was wondering if the Hiwin linear guide type is worth the nearly 100% price increase over the basic pulley version, considering this is a budget model after all. There is also a "middle of the road" option with Chinese linear guides but from what I've read those are to be avoided? Also, the basic pulley has a heated bed and power supply as an option, it'sby siddharta - Delta Machines
QuoteVeesta I think you should just start adding more steps to the calibrated values to get it more accurate. Forget the calibration procedure. Add more steps to your current values, print and measure. Say, +1-2% to the current value. Print and measure. When your part is larger than target. Reduce the steps. I'm unable to find a steps/mm value that gives me an accurate print (in terms of dimensby siddharta - Prusa i3 and variants
I have the same issue but wanted to get it printing well before resolving that. (0,0,0) position has the nozzle well outside and below the heat bed and the center position in Repetier Host is offset from the actual center. Anyhow I've ordered the original and preconfigured mainboard for this printer (it didn't come in the box as it should have and anet3d.com is mute and deaf on the issue) and wilby siddharta - Prusa i3 and variants