Has anyone got an aluminium frame laser cut in NZ? If so, where and how much did it cost? Thx.by korban - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I used these: I like the concept of the roller, less friction on contact.by korban - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Hey Nelson, I liek your heated bed, but you don't seem to have the tradition bed on stalks, is that a new thing for linear bearings, do you have any issues with levelling it? Are you worried about the wood getting too hot?by korban - New Zealand RepRap User Group
There's a good chance you have killed the mosfets and the pololu's, if you have spares I would recommend you swap them out and see if that helps.by korban - Sanguino(lolu)
First thing I would do is check that the thermistor is working, maybehold a soldering iron close, or hairdryer, and see if the temp goes up. Then a multimeter across the heater pins on the board, to see if it's turning on (should see 12v). Then maybe multimeter to measure the resistance of the heater, to make sure it has the right resistance (some are about 4ohm), as long as it's not a short cirby korban - Sanguino(lolu)
They are internal firmware 'fuses'. First check with a multimeter at the switch and at the board to see if the voltage changes from 5v to 0v when toggling the switch. If it doesn't, then there is something wrong with your wiring or the pullup is not on. In pins.h change the pin assignment (scroll down to motherboard=62) for the y-stop from 19 to 27. then run the endstop wire that was going toby korban - Sanguino(lolu)
I could be the same as my problem. I checked that the actually pins were toggling between 0 and 5V and they were. It turned out that I had not turned off the JTAG fuse that causes those 3 endstop pins to work as JTAG pins and not as inputs. If you don't have a way of programming your fuses, you could move the pin function to a spare spin and jumper to your endstops to see if it works.by korban - Sanguino(lolu)
Found the problem, when I programmed the fuses seems I missed the JTAG fuse, this stopped the x-dir and the 3 endstop pins from working! All good now.by korban - Sanguino(lolu)
I swapped the x-dir and y-dir pin functions and the original pin stayed high. So I bent the pin out of the socket, assigned x-dir to a spare pin and ran a wire from there to the x-dir pololu pin and it all works fine now. So it seems that the original pin is damaged, i'll have to get another 644p at some point.by korban - Sanguino(lolu)
Is there a way to disable endstops completely? In case they are malfunctioning?by korban - Sanguino(lolu)
My x-axis would only go in one direction, i tried setting the endstops to false or true, and it didn't make a difference, I thought it may be the Pololu, but it works fine on the y-axis. So I checked the pin with a scope and it is always high. Is it possible the pin is damaged? or is there some software setting i'm missing?by korban - Sanguino(lolu)
Can someone please add '(Note: Stocks Nichrome wire but is un-insulated). ' to South Island Component Centre too? $5.45 +gst for 4m.by korban - New Zealand RepRap User Group
The Prusa is so well documented, and not too expensive, I would recommend going straight for the Prusa rather than Wolfstrap. But there is definitely something to be said about the process of building from 'scratch', Strap to Rap etc. Feel free to post some pics, and I'm sure we'll all help you out as you go along.by korban - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Both of those links, if you scroll to the bottom it has a list of 'Related Projects'. Those will be the best ones.by korban - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Some good progress has been made: First you need to chop it up Then melt it down and extrude into filament Not just useful to make raw material from scrap, but to also recycle failed prints.by korban - New Zealand RepRap User Group
blob Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Do you know what state the fuses are in? Normally > they are set when the bootloader is written but > maybe he didnt do that? I'm having the same problem, as I have loaded my bootloader with AVR studio (as I couldn't get Arduino to work). I think the fuses are not set properly but can't find anywhere what they shouby korban - Sanguino(lolu)
Can you ask Diamond Age to update their website? As for sourcing the Pololu's locally(ish), it seems that robotgear.com.au won't ship to NZ anymore (that's where Dust sourced his) QuoteRobot Gear Sales at the moment we are not shipping outside of Australia. Sorry we can't send them to you. But robokits.co.nz may be the solution from now on: Quoterobokits.co.nz I have available: The A4988 Stby korban - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Got a soldering iron sorted, and now my Sanguinololu is built! Still waiting on the Pololu's to get here but managed to dig out my AVR programmer and successfully program the bootloader and then the sprinter firmware. edit: Sprinter firmware didn't go in. Can't tell if it's a software/driver issue, or if the FTDI comms is not working. Not much more to do until the Pololu's turn up, then I'llby korban - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Just got one of these, they look great. Was hoping to start soldering it last night but turns out my soldering iron doesn't work after the earthquake Will borrow one from work for the weekend and get started!by korban - New Zealand RepRap User Group
VDX Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > ... yes, it works - i made adapters for my > CNC-mill controller with cables and > breakoutboard-sockets which fits in the sockets > for the pololus ... Do you have a picture or even a PCB design for the adapters? Thanks.by korban - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Will Gen 7 work with Gen 3 Stepper boards instead of Pololu? Has anyone done this?by korban - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Congratulations! How about some photos or even video?by korban - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Hylton Parker Fasteners do a 3/16 x 3/4, part number is 316X34ZPEWby korban - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Nice work. Yeah I had thought of that, I tried to make some vertices out of wood but it all went wrong. I have a drill press, so that wasn't an issue. But I don't have a bandsaw, so using a jigsaw, the wood was too thick to to get perfect right angles, which means the drill doesn't go through perfectly, and it all ends up a mess. I then thought about using steel and welding pieces together, orby korban - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I know one of the cheapest places to get bearings for RC cars is: Not sure how much they would be, but shipping was cheap, could be worth a comparison. (I'm building a Prusa so I only need skate bearings, I think) Skate bearing I got from 8 of them for $17.by korban - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Where did you get the Wades parts from? Do you need to borrow a stepper? (I won't need mine till have have the printed parts and electronics working? The McWire looks pretty cool, do you have any pics of yours?by korban - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Attached is a picture of some of the parts i've collected so far, some aluminium rod, threaded rod and plates, all cut to size. The steppers have arrived, so I decided to start on etching the pcb's, and have started populating the boards. I figure i should get all the electronics working before I get a set of printed parts, maybe control a felt pen before an extruder.by korban - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Came across the Reprap project quite a while ago, but until I saw the Mendel and the Prusa Mendel did it seem well documented enough to be easily achievable. So I've started on a Prusa, I've cut the threaded and smooth rod, made the plates, scrounged all the fasteners from the garage/Bunnings. I even etched a Motherboard v1.2 and am part way through assembling it. Steppers are in transit. Tryby korban - New Zealand RepRap User Group
@Noobman Thanks for that, I found your page : DIY PCB I etched the Motherboard v1.2 last night using transparencies and UV exposure technique. I can usually get 5mil clearances and 6mil tracks. I really struggled with the vias tho, the smallest drill bit I could find was 0.8mm which was a little big for the vias. The vias under the micro are a bit questionable, not sure if the micro will sit onby korban - Next Wave Electronics Working Group