Fair enough, being the manufacturer I'd lean towards believing their numbers as well. I am going to be switching from mxl belts to gt2 in a couple of weeks hopefully. But it will be coming along with a redesign of my mechanical motion as I frankenstein my CubeX into a CoreXY machine I've dubbed the CubeXY Project. I'm not sure if it would really be useful as a direct comparison between the beltsby obelisk79 - General
Given the same materials used for production, there should be little to no difference in equal width/length belts. Any difference at that point would come down to quality control or amount of embedded fiberglass which I imagine would vary based on factory it was produced in. The real difference would be in looking at other core materials as mentioned above.by obelisk79 - General
TDD, Interesting point about the TPU. I broke my original hotend accidentally when attempting to disassemble it. I've been using an inexpensive E3D clone that's been serving me well so far. Since you mentioned your CoreXY printer you are building. Would you be interested in the STL's for the CoreXY conversion I'm doing to my CubeX? They aren't complete yet so I won't post them until I have proveby obelisk79 - General
I don't want to discourage you, but based on my own experiences with the CubeX, I cringe at the thought of ever using it the way it was before swapping the controller. My CubeX printed like trash before I swapped the controller. Just remember you can still use the filament after you've made your conversion if you find yourself struggling to get decent prints. I noticed a significant improvementby obelisk79 - General
I've modified my bed leveling mounts in a similar fashion just this afternoon. Seems like it has more stability now. Working on a few test prints as I type. Out of curiosity what settings are you guys using for acceleration and jerk? Edit: I've been playing around with the settings, including print speed. I have ringing at the start of each layer on my hollow test object. The only way I've beby obelisk79 - General
Nope, I am not a fan of the extruder, but as an interim, it works.by obelisk79 - General
FWIW, if I had chosen to go 32 bit, I would have gone with a DUETWIFI boardby obelisk79 - General
I suppose I'll remain in the minority in this thread. 32 bit is a nice luxury. In spirit of keeping this a budget oriented build with some decent planning and preparation I don't see why you would want to discourage use of an 8 bit ramps or rumba board. I purchased mine from Amazon, everything seems to be of good quality and the printer runs great. With Marlin, there's no need to recompile firmwaby obelisk79 - General
I'm not saying a 32 bit board would be bad by any stretch, it's just unnecessary for one of these printers.by obelisk79 - General
Ramps seems to be more than sufficient for the printer you've ordered. I can't imagine a 32 bit board really bringing anything useful to the table.by obelisk79 - General
I believe I need to tune my acceleration and jerk. I'm using default values right now.by obelisk79 - General
I haven't done too much disassembly of the frame, but I did remove one of the y axis guides and it was a pain. I haven't noticed slop in the bearings but that is certainly a possibility. I was printing without the outer acrylic shell screwed down so perhaps that was part of the problem since it would have allowed more frame flex. I have replacement bearings ordered from Ali Baba. The bearings useby obelisk79 - General
Quotetoto08 # Obelisk79, # Firefox3D, Super conversion of CubeX. Feel free to share your list of changed components. If you have configuration files too, it would be cool. A question for you # obelisk79, are you happy with your extruder assembly? It does not pull the filament? In this regard, would it be complicated to program the new electronics to do as the new prusa multicolor update? A biby obelisk79 - General
All this talk of strengthening the frame made me think simple open square aluminum plates would do the trick. Although I like the original appearance of the printer. I'm focusing more on weight reduction of the moving mass.by obelisk79 - General
My setup looks so much more sketchy, but all electrical connections are sound with clean solder joints and heat shrink. Finally started a test print off 3d benchy hope it measures out well. I haven't really tweaked the calibration yet. <--- short video of it in action. I noticed an immediate and notable improvement in print quality with my normal calibration object. This is the benchy prby obelisk79 - General
All of the lines below should be uncommented. Make sure you installed U8glib properly. #define DOGLCD #define SDSUPPORT #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLERby obelisk79 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I cut the stepper wires about 6 inches from the controller and soldered one diode circuit for each motor loop (2 in total). I used the outside wires from the connector so I wouldn't cross them somehow. Got clean solder joints but the wiring doesn't look particularly clean. Stepper noise is pretty much gone now though.by obelisk79 - General
Just an update. I received bags full of 1N5404 diodes and am now getting them soldered in place to fix the motor whine on the steppers with the DRV8825's. $5 well spend imo. I'll start posting up pictures soon of my build progress.by obelisk79 - General
The stock bearings are press fit in and i deemed them to difficult to remove without damaging them. You'll probably need to source replacements like I did. Once I've finished my x carriage assembly I might be able to help you out.by obelisk79 - General
TDD, I have run into stepper whine using the drv8825's. So far I've not noticed any missed steps however. I ordered a bunch of diodes just as a precautionary measure. Plus I'd like to kill the motor noise.by obelisk79 - General
For anyone curious, I'll be converting by rotating the two y axis motors vertically to facilitate the correct linear belt motion. I'll machine off the upper part of the corner pieces to Mount the pulleys and steppers with printed parts. Eventually I'll print them with a carbon fiber composite filament for better dimensional stability. Right now I'm more interested in successfully completing the cby obelisk79 - General
I just received replacement KH1228 bearings from China. Hopefully the tolerances are good, they physically appear to be of good quality. I'll be using them with printed guides for conversion to CoreXY movement. I need to finish calibration of the initial conversion so I can print the new pieces since this is my only printer.by obelisk79 - General
TheJones, Thanks for the help. I actually just figured it out and was coming here to post about it. I also found my firmware config had the switch status reversed. Easily fixed. Have to say, I really am appreciating the fact that there are others doing the same conversion as me. Really helps me out as a newbie to 3d printing and reprap. -Obeliskby obelisk79 - General
TheJones, I'm having issues getting the original X and Y endstops to work on the ramps board. Which pins did you wire the reed switch wires to? -Obeliskby obelisk79 - General
Progress update: I have Teacup running well so far on my RAMPS with the DRV8825's and Pronterface for control. So far I've tested X and Y axis movement and all seems smooth and in order. Z axis is next, I'm hoping I've calculated the correct steps per mm. So far I have 174.978 steps/mm for X and Y @ 1/32 microsteps for a 2.032 pitch mxl belt on 18T pulleys. for Z I've calculated 2133.333 steps/by obelisk79 - General
Quoteyoussefaly97 Hello, RRD Smart Controller support is still under development in teacup. There is a branch I created a while ago and I'm working on it a bit at a time, I'm sorry I'm slow at it, college takes my time away. Good to hear that support is a work in progress, I hope you manage to complete your work some time soon, or perhaps someone more experienced than I is able to help you finisby obelisk79 - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Sorry if this is answered elsewhere, I've been trying to configure my RAMPS board with a RRD smart controller and I don't see where/how I can configure this in either the source or configtool. Can anyone provide me a little help?by obelisk79 - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Hi Angeline, As someone who is relatively new to 3D Printing and reprap, I'd like to share my own thoughts and experiences. I believe that within your budget there will be no plug-n-play solution that will suit your needs. I thought the same thing, then quickly realized that proper calibration takes a lot of time, trial and error. Not to mention that many (not all) of the cheaper kits have otheby obelisk79 - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist Quoteobelisk79 I decided to make my conversion as cheap as possible so I decided on going with a RAMPS board and DRV8825's. You may have problems with those drivers. They don't microstep well at low speeds with low voltage motors. See: I've actually seen that article before, forgot about it though. I have a set of A4988's as well for a backup. I hope I don't experieby obelisk79 - General
Yeah, I've read about the drawback to bowden setups. If i have excessive problems because of it I'll have to try something else. Thanks for the heads up though. I've actually been drawing out on paper something along the lines of the Flexidrive. Not sure if I'll end up with a functional prototype or not but I think it's an interesting effort nonetheless.by obelisk79 - General