> For my Mendelmax, I'm using a silicon heating pad > from McMaster-Carr (35765K31) Have you tried other heating methods? PCB or power resistors? How does it compare? I was turned off to the heating pad for cost reasons but if it really works better I might want to try it.by Mazaw - Controllers
The extra 20mm of smooth rod for the X won't harm anything. Your Z motor mounts will have to each be an extra cm further away from the top frame vertex, and you can use 4 x M8 nuts to lock them in place.by Mazaw - Reprappers
I would think the only thing that would affect the steps per mm for the extruder while the hot end is attached would be that the extruder motor is missing steps or the hobbed bolt is stripping. Neither of those situations is GOOD, mind you, but fixing those doesn't involve the steps per mm and instead involve motor current and temperature.by Mazaw - General
I think this might be the place to ask if PLA outgasses anything after it's printed. Specifically, I was thinking about printing a card box for collectible card games, of which there are many designs freely available, but I'm not sure if someone's printed and used one for storage for a long enough length of time to notice any yellowing of the cards. I'm printing one now and putting non-valuableby Mazaw - Polymer Working Group
The visual instructions put the Y bars under the front/back threaded rods. For my build, I put them above and used a similar set up to the one shown in this blog post, item #6: http://blog.reprap.org/2011/11/prusa-iteration-2.html What does your build platform hit when trying to exceed 130mm? FWIW: I get a clean 195x185x75, partially because I'm using Lulzbot's aluminum plate as my carriage andby Mazaw - Reprappers
Which part are you getting hung up on? Are you able to upload? Some things to confirm, and what I did for Marlin RC1 1. That you copied the Sanguino folder into the Arduino IDE hardware folder 2. That you're using the last Arduino IDE before 1.0, there's some extra steps to make it work in 1.0 that I don't really know and didn't want to mess with. Personally, I use 0.22. 3. You've set the corrby Mazaw - Sanguino(lolu)
For PLA, the biggest help in push-fit objects is a small hot air embossing tool, picked up from an arts and crafts store. I just let it get to temperature, wave it over the target area for about 2-3 seconds and it will flex enough to let it in. I do the same when there's a stubborn captive nut detent that won't effectively capture the nut: I thread a screw from the opposite side, mount the nut, aby Mazaw - General
jonasl Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Leave it in Acetone over night. It wont dissolve, > but it will crack, and will be alot easier to get > out. > Some people also use a torch and burn out the > remains of the nossel. Just a cautionary note that if you go the torch route and have a brass nozzle and melt barrel. Use a gentle grip while burning thby Mazaw - Reprappers
The ATMega 1284 is drop-in compatible with the 644, so a steady hand could easily swap. ChipQuik is great (along with solder wick for cleanup) if you don't have a hot air station. You'll have to upgrade to the Arduino 1.0 software which comes with some other gotchas in order to get it to burn a bootloader on that chip, but if they're selling 1284P based boards and it's open source it sounds likeby Mazaw - General
Computer case and heatsink fans now come with four wires: two for power, one for speed reporting (closed-loop anyone?), and one for PWM control. According to the electrical spec, anything above 0.8V (and below 5.25V) is acceptable for the PWM signal. Freq. is 25kHz I know the Sanguinololu has an extra PWM pin on the expansion header, so that might be golden. I think the Azteeg X1 derivative alreby Mazaw - General
The main advantage of self-sourcing components for the electronics is that, if you're picky, you can substitute. I used right angle headers on the Sanguinololu ICP and expansion pins and screw terminals for the heater outputs as well as the power input (wedging additional 5mm screw terminals into where ordinarily there would be 4 pins separated by 0.1inch). If you're buying a kit, it's only goiby Mazaw - General
nophead Wrote: > Anybody seen one working? How does it manage to > not dribble on the model and have enough plastic > to be ready to extrude? Not personally, but I found this video. It's strange that the first 4 pages of videos looking for printing examples are completely dominated by commercials uploaded by Makerbot, trade show presentation uploaded by just about everyone, and supportby Mazaw - General
Could you try it with Woodsmoke's Lashmaze?by Mazaw - General
Does it still work with a glass covered heated bed? After some great warp-free prints past few weeks, I finally did a large plate and had some lifting, I'm in love with how easy the prints are to remove from the glass after it cools but I'd rather not spend another 15 continuous hours only to find out it's only suitable for printing on tape.by Mazaw - General
Looks pretty neat. It looks like the design would lend well to a single Z motor instead of two. I'm curious if you tried it with one and encountered a problem that lead to having two of them.by Mazaw - General
I asked here and the responses seem simple enough. Just like it is with the bed, except two screws, one from the bottom and one from the top, both screwed into female standoffs. Leveling is done by rotating the standoff. I might try this soon, although I'm not printing at a high enough quality right now to blame bed springs as the last thing separating me from the beautiful prints that the prosby Mazaw - Reprappers
I checked out that Vision kickstarter page, and it's pretty insulting to say (video at 0:15) that somehow the Vision 3d printer, which is the same as an Iteration 2 Prusa Mendel except with better Z couplers and the addition of Z constraints, is really about customization, when the Reprap project predates it by many many years. Also, it's one thing to start a Kickstarter campaign to raise fundsby Mazaw - General
Parabolic Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > well I dont see anywhere on there where he has an > extruder - only the carriage. I assure you it's there: Here's the view and the file is along the side named "Quick-fit Extruder". I'm currently using it with the Prusa Iteration 2 X carriage. There's a little overhang but it's temporary until I switch to his carriaby Mazaw - General
I had issues, too, and I couldn't quite figure out why one of the STL files from the Thingiverse page worked but the other did not, even when I later tried to build them from OpenSCAD. Netfabb warned me it couldn't auto fix, and I fiddled with it a bit and gave up. Wound up printing Richrap's version instead, which sliced just fine and is basically the same design with the exception that his isby Mazaw - General
Just saw these for measuring temperature... what does everyone think? Good idea? Bad idea? (Scroll down to the non-one time use labels)by Mazaw - General
Those bed temps sound low to me. I have glass over a MK2 bed with a thermistor in the hole and lately I start off at 80C for the first layer and 70C for the rest of the print.by Mazaw - General
So, 1.3b is no longer open? I just checked the github and there's no 1.3b folder. Looks like there are lot of changes, moving the FTDI to the top layer, using a crystal instead of a resonator, empty space under the stepper drivers.by Mazaw - Sanguino(lolu)
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I just use hexagonal pillars in the four corners, > tapped into the Dibond carriage. Twisting the > pillars raises or lowers the corner and the screw > in the top locks it and holds the PCB down. How often do you have to re-level? Does the vibration loosen the pillars or is there also some Loctite or glue on theby Mazaw - General
richrap Wrote: > I'm happy to take some photos and post if that > would help? I think it might. I tried catching a glimpse on your videos but it isn't really a focus point. I read: > The four corners are then adjusted to be flat and > tightened down after the rest is wired up and and visualize those screws going into fixed PCB Spacers but the board just laying on the spacers dueby Mazaw - General
richrap Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Don't use any springs or anything that can move, > Once you have it level, it will stay that way. Not > a single adjustment in over 2 months now. If you don't mind me asking, how do you level it and keep it there while it gets fixed? By level I'm assuming you mean parallel with respect to the XY axes. I'm very depby Mazaw - General
Short answer: Click Raw and File | Save As... Better short answer: At the project home page, , click ZIP and download the whole thing. You're probably going to want the lot of them after all.by Mazaw - General
But, this isn't an open source forum. It's a Reprap forum. Deleting the thread was a logical thing to do if it was distracting from the purpose of the site. Perhaps interested parties should make an attempt to attend or make a submission to the Open Hardware Summit this September. While the words "open source hardware" has debatable meaning, having an Open Source Hardware organization and logo oby Mazaw - General
spirit47 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I want to buy some small pieces for 52$, but when > I checkout, the shipping costs to Thailand for > under 200 grams are 38$. They have only UPS, and > this prices not ok, normal post will be under > 10$. > Now, I wait for them, answering my email... FWIW, I've always had issues receiving physical items fby Mazaw - General
Has anyone successfully been able to get it? It happily took my email address but no validation email arrived. With no way to login without validation, inability to contact without logging in, despite a link ON the "non-validated" error page to a contact link and promising to send another confirmation email, it doesn't work. Just a scheme to collect a bunch of valid email addresses? No newbies aby Mazaw - General