There's always Candyfab. Unfortunately (or fortunately for those not wishing to become diabetic), http://www.candyfab.org/ is down at the moment.by Mazaw - General New Machines Topics
A lot of those dedicated plastics vendors seem to skip the PLA. Sounds like it might be a good idea to pick up some ABS and figure out it's nuances sooner versus later. Or, if the difference in domestic PLA sources really starts going nuts in pricing, it'll be a smaller financial jump to justify for changing to international vendors. I've been eyeing Faberdashery colors for a long while, but afby Mazaw - General
Short answer: duty should be $0, unless someone screws up. Longer answer: Duty is defined based on something called the "Harmonized Tariff Schedule". It's a giant thing that supposedly covers pretty much everything. Chapter 85 should cover it, and I would consider pretty much any RepRap related board to fall under chapter 85, heading 8542.31.00-00: Electronic integrated circuits; parts thereof:by Mazaw - Controllers
WildBill Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > IMHO the FPGA could be used for more than just a > controller interface and could be more rewarding > on many of other projects that take more > processing power, it would be used for being a > host and controller all in one with the proper > sheilds it can have vga output and keyboard/mouse > interfaceby Mazaw - Controllers
crutonius Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Okay so, today's lesson is don't build a chamber > and poke a single hole on the top for the filament > to feed through. It will drag on the bearings > enough to wear them down pretty fast. > > Hopefully that's the problem. My stupidity is > much easier to deal with then design deficiencies. Was itby Mazaw - General Mendel Topics
PastaRocket848 Wrote: > i attribute the ease of setup to the design of the > mendelmax. you simply can't get it (that) wrong. > things are either straight and proper or they just > don't fit. with a threaded-rod based design there > are a LOT more alignment issues and little nagging > problems that creep up because of them. I have to agree. Using measurement jigs were kindby Mazaw - General
sloth Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > This sounds a lot like my problem. The 7805 also > gets very hot (I actually burned my finger when I > touched it) and in addition the printer resets > itself during prints > 30 min and freezes then. I > cannot measure the current right now, so I am not > 100 percent sure if I have the same problem. I >by Mazaw - Sanguino(lolu)
Think I've got it. Issues with the lower layers spreading (going to experiment with lowering the temp after the first layer) but so far, 80C solid seems to work pretty well for me. Posting in case someone with a similar set up has the same issue.by Mazaw - Printing
I usually buy from Ultimachine and I missed a chance to get Black 3mm PLA on a spool last week for $66. Checked today and it's $101, more than 50% increase! Yikes! Sure makes those failed prints hurt more than they already do.by Mazaw - General
I'm not saying they have not or will not give back anything. The github speaks for itself, and no one really has a reason to doubt eventually the Replicator will be laid fully bare like the Thingomatic. But I'm talking about this very moment. Is it pedantry and semantics that one should call it open source once it's open? Maybe, but I'd rather it mean something than turn into the next buzz wordby Mazaw - General
billyzelsnack Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What should the 99% of current and future > "opensource" projects be called because they > certainly do not and will not have "complete" > documentation. Isn't one of the features of > opensource that the original authors don't have to > do all the work? If someone wants to step up and > create comby Mazaw - General
One thing I would like to see addressed in the OSHW definition (1.1 is in draft) is a fleshing out of what documentation actually means. It should be complete. And the text at the top of that link that says "When we say open source, we mean open source." but isn't complete is just kind of a joke. And I think they're obligated to give back only as long as they rely on the stuff they build upon isby Mazaw - General
billyzelsnack Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I think that Makerbot is a tad bit disingenuous > about opensource hardware and it's more a > marketing bullet point rather than community > contribution, but if they do release source files > it does technically qualify. Regardless of their > direct contribution I do think they are making an > eveby Mazaw - General
The only other thing I can think of is that I'm way down in Florida, US, near the shore, and it's always humid. But I don't think there's really anything I can do about that short of building a chamber for the printer and loading with desiccants. Another thing I could think of is that I'm using a Budaschnozzle 1.0 with a heater-block design hot end. That version featured a very short nozzle, so mby Mazaw - Printing
Dunno if maybe I should switch to regular glass, tried to do a plate of 2 x 2 LM8UU holders and one of the islands just consistently popped off during prints, even with the 95/55 profile for the bed. I love the part bottom, though, I can't even see the tool path of the first layer anymore. Downside is, well, popping off. lol I think I'm going to have to just abandon it and deal with printing thiby Mazaw - Printing
This is a useful page for standard sizes: http://www.numberfactory.com/nf metric screws and bolts.htmby Mazaw - General
tony woollacott Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks that looks great, and very handy. > So what you are saying is that I need to make > changes to the firmware loaded on the chip? If > this is the case would it be possible to get a > copy of the correct firmware and load it up? This > is all new to me, as I am a mechanical guy with > very lby Mazaw - Reprappers
You will need to set the steps per mm for each axis somewhere in your firmware. For Sprinter and Marlin (perhaps others too, but I've never used them), they are in configuration.h in an array declaration. The three calibration formula at the bottom of this page were extremely valuable. I found measuring the hobbed bolt to calibrate the extrusion to be quite difficult and wound up with a wildlyby Mazaw - Reprappers
Purchased my Prusa Mendel hardware kit from them, plus some bed springs and I've got no major complaints. The Z threaded rods did need some grinding down to get nuts to thread on them, but the other threaded rods were just fine. I wound up replacing just those with stainless 318 later anyway. But everything was well packed and arrived to the US very quickly.by Mazaw - General
I would also vote for MendelMax because you have multiple vendors selling plastic parts, extrusions and hardware are available from multiple vendors, and compatibility with the huge world of RepRap parts (hot ends, carriages, etc). I have an Ultimaker and the biggest complaint I have is the secret BOM and that all replacement parts are single-source (from Ultimaker Ltd). So when I have a problemby Mazaw - General
Grog, I think I might have to derive from that, I'm printing on an Iteration 2 Prusa that doesn't get the X bars all the way through the X ends. Although I liked how small it is, I might have actually gotten away with printing it. I've printed a lot of masking tape in the past but I found, even with Ultimachine PLA, I was curling quite a bit, printing on an Ultimaker. I printed an X-end idler aby Mazaw - Printing
I'm gonna pick up an IR thermometer and see if I can't figure out what the temperature at the glass really is compared to what the thermistor is actually saying. Maybe I'm setting it to 60C and it's not even getting where it needs to be at the glass.by Mazaw - Printing
Ok, I kept dialing in the Z height and I think I'm at the point where I cannot print any lower and yet I'm still getting curling. Attached is a picture of the outline, which is one thread of plastic that looks squished pretty good. The second shows a nice reflection that shows the curl towards x,y (0,0). Finally, the last picture shows all the pieces printed, each one has various degrees of curlby Mazaw - Printing
I think you might be better off selling objects fabricated on the spot. People come by and check out a display with a bunch of things already printed out (or maybe a catalog of things you're willing to print) and select something. Then they can go out there and shop for a while and come back and pick up their thingamajig. I would make sure I've got a farm of fast and reliable printers ready to goby Mazaw - General
Just looking from that, yes, you'll need some kind of Y carriage upon which you can attach the heated bed. The Prusa illustrated guide shows it made cut from MDF, but I'm pretty hopeless with saws and such so I opted for the aluminum build plate from Lulzbot.. It has pre-cut and tapped holes for the belt clamps, bed springs, and your choice of boltable bearing. I built a linear bearing versionby Mazaw - General
When you plug it into your USB port, does Windows make a noise or notify that it detects something? The LED can go on with power from the 12V or power from the USB, so, disconnect the 12V input and see if it can power itself from the USB port. If not, there might be something wrong in that connection: try another USB port to see whether it's the computer or the Sanguinololu connection. If you caby Mazaw - General
grog Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Once I get the bed level I only adjust the Z end > stop to change the height above the bed I want the > nozzle to be. Then I only have to adjust one > screw - I have opto stops and have it mounted on > springs so I can adjust them just a small amount > to change the height Do you have a picture of that set uby Mazaw - Printing
Are there any hard numbers to how high it must be off the bed? I'm going through an iterative cycle where I turn loosen each of the M3 bed screws 1/8 of a turn to raise 0.0625mm and while the bottom is looking much more squished I'm still getting subtle curling. I have feeler gauges but, aside from not being sure how exactly to use them (the naive "try to slide it under the homed nozzle" doesn'tby Mazaw - Printing
On Sprinter, line 47 on configuration.h has the rate. It should match what you have in your coms software. If you're using Pronterface, it's located in the upper left.by Mazaw - Sanguino(lolu)
Hi, I've finally took the dive with my new build and was really excited to up my game a little into a true open hardware Reprap. First thing I wanted to do is print Nophead's Z couplers and I seem to having a strange issue with curling. Pictures below after I cancelled the print, but a few notes first. I'm using a PCB heater MK2 with a 3.5mm thick pane of borosilicate glass on top, anchored wiby Mazaw - Printing