okay, i'm going to try with retraction at 3mm, infill at 30mm/s, perimeters at 60mm/sby sarf2k4 - Printing
So, is the "start" thingy would be equal as how many "ridges" at the end of the leadscrew? e.g 4 start = 4 ridges at the end of the leadscrew? Could you show me what does this start thingy is?by sarf2k4 - General
I would like to ask information regarding the a number of leadscrews out there and from what I understand that leadscrews are also can be comprehended as acme (with squarish shaped threads) and I stumbled upon some leadscrew title or name saying like "TR8*8", "THSL 8", "TR8*4", "TR8*8/4". There might be more of them though. 1. What I wanted to know is that if I am going to key into the prusa calby sarf2k4 - General
I've been having issues with setting up slicer for bowden drive and the current printer would be the tevo tarantula single extruder type. i tried some of these settings infill before perimeters on and off avoid crossing perimeters on speed as follows perimeters 50 and 60 infill 40 and 60 extrusion width for infill 0.6 and 0.8mm printer nozzle 0.4mm retraction setting length 5mm speed 45mm/by sarf2k4 - Printing
i'm pretty sure zortrax uses standard nema17 motor as well, but the only thing that can be of concern is the type of thermistor used i guessby sarf2k4 - General
I was thinking of getting Geeetech's Rambo 1.2g controller board for one of the printer, unsure if it can accept 24v power input from it since they didn't state that only 12v input can be supplied. Can it really go with 24v input? since 12v has its own issues of getting to 110'c quite longer, thinking of using 24v on this next printerby sarf2k4 - General
That's what I meant, having another 5v input is a mandatory for smoothieboard means I would need either 5v psu or 5v power regulator to power the whole logic, if I didn't supply another 5v, it won't work is it?by sarf2k4 - General
QuoteElmoC Quotesarf2k4 I am quite confused as to go for either smoothieboard or duet though, I read a little bit of smoothieboard instruction that it needs another 5v for logic, and that would need another 5v power supply or voltage regulator for that one. I also forgot to state that I'm going to build a cartesian style 3d printer The Smoothieboard, like the Duet, has an option to supply 5v frby sarf2k4 - General
I am quite confused as to go for either smoothieboard or duet though, I read a little bit of smoothieboard instruction that it needs another 5v for logic, and that would need another 5v power supply or voltage regulator for that one. I also forgot to state that I'm going to build a cartesian style 3d printerby sarf2k4 - General
@dc42, I saw in megatronics that there are few 5v and 12v pins and I'm pretty sure it is for some other uses that can only be powered at 12v like hot end fans and led lights. But I'm not sure about the Rambo board if Rambo do have the 12v and 5v power output pins As for the 32bit based arduino. I still never touched them and I'm not sure what is the most suitable firmware for them that is almostby sarf2k4 - General
Hi, I'm considering to go for 24v system electronics and I need some suggestion especially the mainboards and I got some few questions as well regarding using 24v systems Is 24v 15a 360w sufficient? Megatronics or Rambo, why? (I'm considering to go for Rambo) Can 12v hotend and heated bed setup connected to 24v driven mainboard? I'm also considering to go for 30x30cm bed size, is the above poweby sarf2k4 - General
Hi, I ran into problem since long ago where I'm unable to see the values of motor speed and length for extruder like the picture here I did try to download several times of the latest pronterface version/build 2014.08.01. I would get the same interface as well Can someone guide me through this problem?by sarf2k4 - General
It is the first time I heard of z-temp though. Well, about using the gcode, it would be wiser just to test them out directly into the sdcard. Although I've seen zortrax's board and what I can assume is that it uses 24v system and the way to do it is just replace the board. But seeing how the wire from the board connected to the heatbed would make me kinda worry and not to mention the m200 also usby sarf2k4 - General
I don't know an efficient way of migrate to newer version of marlin, what I simply does is to copy anything that's important on your current config.h and bring them slowly to the recent update. I forgot the version 1.0.x release date, but the one almost stable would be the RC branch, there are also 'rcbugfix' branch that they use it to fix any known bugs reported. I'm currently going to test outby sarf2k4 - General
It might be the motor or the step sticks were hot, ever tried to touch the motor during operation? it's not recommended to touch the stepstick during operation though. If it does hot, try to reduce the stepstick currentby sarf2k4 - General
Hi, I got a zortrax m200 still working but making up problems due to old age (typical). I was wondering few things Can zortrax firmware use Gcode? Can I use opensource board like arduino due to power the current m200 hardwares? In accordance to the above, is there anyone succeeded in doing so especially in configuring the firmwares? Can I flash / upload opensource firmware into the current m20by sarf2k4 - General
it is clearly too much heat radiation there. I would suggest to use fan upon reaching those small parts. I sometimes print a single 3-5mm rod standing up and without fans it would give an imperfect rods. I start the fan after about 3 layers of printing these rods and the fan often running at least 50% (manually activated) My print parameters are as follows speed at 60 abs temp at 240 You coulby sarf2k4 - Printing
Turns out to be two of the pins were connected after I tried other combination with/without sdsupport enabled in the config.h then it was okay after I swapped into another adapter and didn't noticed the defects. I already disconnected those two and tried it, it worked like a charm Here's the pictureby sarf2k4 - General
It's the genuine e3d v6 by the way, I'm printing at 60mm/s with at least 220'c nozzle temp. Currently I'm printing the digital sundial and there were some part it got under extrusion leaving noticeable lines, besides that the layer are all good. I'm starting to think that this pla is a bad one, it's a generic pla from chinaby sarf2k4 - Printing
Currently I'm using an e3d v6 hot end direct drive along with some teflon tube inside to reach the extruder, my problem is, I kept having somewhat filament jam, after I canceled the print job and push the filament manually, the plastic did get extruded. So my assumption was that the filament somewhat got stuck in the heatbreak cylinder where the filament exits on the teflon tube. My current retrby sarf2k4 - Printing
i am also looking forward to this one, having multi coloured filament, what I had in mind is to analyze the stl files in the slicer that able to distinguish the polygon colour; let's say the colour represented in web colour format or something, then convert it into 8 bit rgb 0-255, use it on the extruder motors. e.g 255, 127, 32. Well, just an idea of how it might able to work out but will make tby sarf2k4 - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
I got idea how to mount it and already printed it. But it gave me an off reading, before I soldered the wire onto it, it was ok and quite stable, but now it is not. I wonder if it was due to my poor soldering technique that destroyed the resistor film inside it? Here is the pictures Basically, the potmeter would sit next to the hinge's axis and there's a lever that is extended to connect it toby sarf2k4 - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
It's a good design, from Tom Sanladerer to be precise and 2 years ago too, but I don't know if he actually make a video about this idea of his, further more using magnet as sensor, What I had in mind is to use it directly on the extruder, it would sit close to the extruder motor since I'm going to use direct drive too. I just thought of a very simple material that would use potentiometer insteaby sarf2k4 - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
This gonna be hard to pinpoint, I prefer using servo+endstop switch but then again I had power drop issues when using servo, so I canceled using servo, the sensor has potentiometer next to the led, wonder if I should adjust that slightly and do z axis offset calibration again? But before going to change the potentiometer, is there any other way of solving this?by sarf2k4 - Printing
Hi, I'm having trouble where the auto bed leveling are quite inaccurate. Marlin thinks that the left side is higher than the right side thus pushing the z axis lower on the right side compared to the left side. I'm using the capacitive proximity sensor M18 size NPN type. The offsets for the sensor are positioned to be at the center of the sensor. I really need help on this, leveling my z axis mby sarf2k4 - Printing
i tried with my spare mega that's using the atmel ftdi chip, it is also the same issuesby sarf2k4 - General
I will try with my rs323 arduino mega from china as well tomorrow and see how, I also beginning to suspect the ch340 arduino type ain't cut for itby sarf2k4 - General
In case you guys wondering, this is the link to the videoby sarf2k4 - General
Hi, I got a problem, my RRD full graphics display seems to have quite a slow update upon navigating the menu, for example pressing the knob will enter the main menu, but turning the knob from info screen to prepare, would have the screen goes blank for about 2-5 seconds before it appears back, this happens only when turning the knob to navigate through the menu lists. My current electronic is Cby sarf2k4 - General
To me, I would recommend to go for a kit, unless you got a friend whose good in 3d printing world, then you refer to himby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants