Thanks for the quick reply.by Evil Monkey - General
If I might jump in here, Sublime I was wondering if you could explain the reason why 3 mm works better than 1.75 mm in a Bowden setup? Less springy perhaps?by Evil Monkey - General
What pin would one check under similar circumstances, but the problem being the extruder not the bed? Additionaly, what is the best way of checking the MOSFETS, short of removing them. Thanks.by Evil Monkey - RAMPS Electronics
Out of the blue, my RAMPS 1.4 stopped heating up the hot end. Nothing has been changed recently, thermistors are reading correctly, bed heats up etc, but the hot end cartridge transistors no longer turn on. What could be the cause of this?by Evil Monkey - RAMPS Electronics
I have no reason to believe this is a scam, just curious.by Evil Monkey - General
Just out of curiosity, what is your Masters Degree in?by Evil Monkey - General
I can't speak for the laser cutter, but a water cutter tends to leave too much of a chamfered cut. The problem I have found is that if you look down a hole drilled with a regular jobber drill bit, there will be a series of concentric circles left from the drilling operation. These ridges equate to an increase in friction when the filament is pushed through.by Evil Monkey - General
Thanks, will give it a shot.by Evil Monkey - General
Very nice,I to have roasted many a drill bit trying to make these. Might I ask where you purchased the parabolic drill bit and 2mm straight flute drill bit?by Evil Monkey - General
Maker Geeks sells a soft PLA called Flex EcoPLA. It prints nicely and is about as flexible as a shoe sole.by Evil Monkey - General
Very nice. Do you have some sort of radiator to remove heat from the circulating water? What kind of pump do you use?by Evil Monkey - General
As I sit here studying for my manufacturing final, I came across the process used for injection molding of powdered metals. A mixture containing 25 to 40 percent polymer or wax as a binder is injected into a mold then the green parts are placed in a furnace to melt out the binder and sinter the metal. The reason I bring this up is because a less powerful laser would be needed to melt the polymerby Evil Monkey - General
What I was thinking of doing next was trying to making almost like an ink well right before the end of the nozzle. Colorant could be injected into the well and would coat the outside of the filament as it goes by, right before it is extruded, no mixing needed. This is similar to that sharpie coating someone put up on Thingiverse for use at the cold end. Which makes me wonder what sharpie markersby Evil Monkey - General
I calculated the Reynolds numbers based on dynamic viscosity of between 0.5 and 2 Newton seconds per meter squared and unfortunately am getting very laminar flow.by Evil Monkey - General
Is there a complete write up somewhere on a working hot end for a Bowden extruder? Dimensions would be great .by Evil Monkey - General
Thanks. In the heater block, there are two holes meeting at 90 degrees. The horizontal outside hole is plugged with a grub screw. Not shown is th 0.5 mm hole in the side of the extruder nozzle which is drilled at a 55 degree angle and comes out below the mixing chamber. The syringe is just for testing, my intention is to eventually use a servo motor running on the spar pins on a RAMPs 1.4. I willby Evil Monkey - General
Machining it is not a problem, I have my own cnc machines. For the serpentine channels, I could see them perhaps machined into a flat block with a cover bolted over it, though the smallest endmill I have is 1/16'' which may be too large.I built a bowden style prototype a few days ago to test this idea out. This is the first bowden type hot end I've ever made, so am having problems with it back feby Evil Monkey - General
I just thought it would be simpler to inject the dye 0.5 mm from the internal end of the nozzle, have the turbulence mix it fully. There could be miltiple colors extruded from the same nozzle, with perhaps a quick dump to the side of the object to purge what little ink would be present after each color change. Varying the diameters would make it easy to machine.by Evil Monkey - General
I'm interested in creating turbulent flow in the transition between the original filament diameter to the nozzle diameter and at that point, inject dye, so that the color will mix fully. So, it would be a matter of varying the internal diameters.by Evil Monkey - General
I was wondering if anyone has done work on determining the dynamic viscosity of either abs or pla. I would like to calculate the Reynolds number for different nozzle configurations.by Evil Monkey - General
I drilled out the nozzle and cut the print speed in half. There was no improvement, though I have noticed in the past a bit of ABS in the teeth. Even at half speed the print looked the same as full speed. As a note, I built the extruder using the forum more as a guideline then a direct set of plans. Attached are some pictures. The standoff is made of 0.5 inch diameter by one inch long PTFE cylindby Evil Monkey - General
Thanks, I will pull it off and run a drill bit through it. Your username also suggests you've had some experiences like thisby Evil Monkey - General
Here's some more pictures. Also, the first layer prints perfectly.by Evil Monkey - General
I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to what has gone wrong with my printer. It was running great up until 2 days ago when, with no changes to the settings, the prints became awful. The mustache ring on the right was printed a few days ago and is fine, while the one on the left is what I'm getting now. I'm running Pronterface and Slic3r using ABS at 230 degrees. Infill and perimeter iby Evil Monkey - General
I was wondering if anyone has considered wire or powdered ferrous material being released through a nozzle surrounded by an induction coil on to a ceramic build platform. Under the platform would be an electromagnet shadowing the movements of the nozzle overhead and keeping the metal above in shape until it cools.by Evil Monkey - Developers
Thanks, I had the brim turned on but it wasn't enough so I edited ohioplastics referaneced code to: G28; home axes G92 E0; M82; G1 E20; extrude 20 mm G4 P10000; wait 10 seconds G92 E0; set extruded to 0 mm Now it dumps all the bubbles and continues on.by Evil Monkey - General
I have been having a similar problem. I was wondering if anyone new what g code could be entered into the splicer initial settings in order to give the extruded a good long purge right before it starts printing?by Evil Monkey - General