Hey guys, Redreprap: Yeah, nozzle heater. cncjoe: Definitely a buzz. And the buzz always coincides with the LED lighting. I assume that at 12V, the LED would stay on solid until 'at temp'? The blinking is due to my using the PID_MAX. That's all fine, but everytime the LED blinks I hear a buzz. As I said above, the buzzing may stop when I move a motor or heat the bed, but the blinking LED continby cheeseweasel - RAMPS Electronics
Hey guys, Yes, "electrical buzzing" is probably a better word. It's loud enough to clearly hear. It buzzes at regular intervals while the hot-end is being heated. I stops when "at temperature", then resumes during a heat-up cycle. The buzzing may also stop when I use prontrface to move a motor, or click to heat the heated bed. I've been using printrboards, this is my first RAMPS board... so I'mby cheeseweasel - RAMPS Electronics
Hello all, I've recently swapped out my 12V power supply with a 24V power supply (and 24V heated bed). I removed D1 as noted in on the RAMPS 1.4 wiki and modified the current going to the hot-end with the "#define PID_MAX 64" setting. Everything is working fine, BUT when I instruct the hot-end to heat up (via prontrface) the RAMPS board starts making an odd beeping/buzzing noise and the hot-endby cheeseweasel - RAMPS Electronics
Well, I can see by your error that arduino is complaining about missing files again, but I don't recognize the file names. I would suggest checking to make sure your Configuration.h file correctly identifies your motherboard. For printrboard you should see the following line: #define MOTHERBOARD 81 Bobbyby cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
Ah! It looks like you are missing your Configuration.h file! Check to make sure that has not been deleted or moved.by cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
Hmm... a couple of things come to mind. First, I seem to recall that printrboard is not compatible with Arduino IDE versions beyond 0022, you may check into that. That would be a simple fix. Beyond that, within the arduino IDE there is a menu option to select your port (Tools/Serial Port). Be sure to select your port AFTER you place your jumper and hit the reset button. The port changes as youby cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
Hello, Just noticed this forum for St. Louis. Activity looks light, but I thought I'd put a 'hello' out here to see if anyone is still looking. I'm in the Sunset Hills area and have built both a Prusa and a MendelMax. Bobbyby cheeseweasel - Missouri, Saint Louis RepRap User Group
Gert, You should see the settings in the Configuration.h file for Marlin. They should look something like this: // Disables axis when it's not being used. #define DISABLE_X false #define DISABLE_Y false #define DISABLE_Z true #define DISABLE_E false // For all extruders Bobbyby cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
You zero, or "home", the X,Y, and Z axes by positioning one of the mechanical endstops that comes with your kit. As for the print surface dimensions, mine is 9 3/4" x 11". I'm not sure I understand your question about how high above the heated bed it should be, I don't think it matters, it will clear the frame. I would keep it as low-profile as possible to avoid cutting into your Z-axis print spby cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
Hello, It shouldn't matter that you are using a mac, but are you using the Marlin firmware? If so, makerfarm has a decent printrboard config guide. You can find it here: Makerfarm Install Guides. Your printrboard is probably pre-loaded with firmware if it is moving at all. Do you have a copy of the current config files? You'll want to start with those if possible. Yes, there should be a jumpeby cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
See below: odgers Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I am purchasing this some time this week > > > Couple of queries , I plan on purchasing a piece > of glass (not included) and using painter tape on > and painting PLA > my understanding is that pla does not need a hot > bed? This is true. I've tested it. PLA works fine with just blue paby cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
Dang pasted the wrong link! Thanks akhlut.by cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
You should be fine using 3mm with a .35 nozzle (I've seen that very combo offered on makerfarm). Just be sure to use a hot-end that is configured for that filament size. I've built a Prusa and a Max and have opted for a .5 nozzle on both. My research indicated that the differences between .5 and .35 (concerning print quality) were negligible, but the .35 can be more finicky to setup. I have no pby cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
Just a couple thoughts: 1. If you were planning on printing in PLA you would not need to worry about a heated bed. I've recently tested PLA prints with only blue-painters tape on the print surface (ie. no heat) and the prints adhered to the tape and printed just fine. If you are planning to print with ABS then, yeah, you'll need heat. 2. My recollection is that a single MKII draws about 10A. Rby cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
I think I found it. INVERT_Z_DIR Thanks!by cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
Ah ha. Ok, thanks. You don't recall the name of the setting do you? If not, I'll dig it up.by cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
Hey Guys, I'm building my second printer, a MendelMax 1.5 with lower mounted z-axis motors. I'm to the point of testing out the electrics and I noticed that the z motors, due to their orientation, cause the z-axis movement to be reverse of what I expected. Clicking +1mm in prontrface causes the z-axis to move down - which is the opposite of upper mounted motors. I'm using printrboard with marliby cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
Hey Christoph, Sorry for the delay. Extruder temp is a standard 185C, bed temp is 60C. My hot-end is .5mm and I typically print a .25mm layer height. I'm using 3mm PLA purchased from onlinefilament or makerfarm. I've heard that some colors can require different temps, but I have not found that to be the case so far. Bobbyby cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
Hello Christoph, I have printed that same box with PLA with decent results. You can see my progress images here: Prusa Mendel V2 Linear, Wades Extruder, Printrboard, Marlin, Slic3r I messed around with a lot of settings, but my biggest improvements came from the addition of a 40mm fan. You can find fan mounts on thingivese that allow you to position a fan so that it is blowing on the hot-endby cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
My advice is: 1. Read the assembly instructions twice before starting. 2. Measure everything 3 times during assembly 3. Buy digital calipers and be obsessive with your motor calibration Everyone starts with a similar pile of parts, but print quality varies greatly. Have fun with your build and let us know how it turns out. Cheeseby cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
Hey John, I print primarily in PLA and I very infrequently have curling issues. When I do it is almost ALWAYS a result of my print surface being dirty. I know you mentioned you cleaned your surface until your fingers were dry , so here's the rest of my setup, which is very similar to yours, but may help. Heated bed: 60C Hot end: 185C First layer height: .25mm Print Surface: Kapton Tape over glaby cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
NewPerfection Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > As long as the heater doesn't draw more than 10 or > so amps at 12 V, then it will work just fine with > the printrboard. For anything requiring more > power you will need to use a relay. Ah ha! You posted while I was typing my reply. This is the info I needed. I supposed 15A is too much. So, my obviouby cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
Excuse my ignorance here, but that is exactly my question. Does the printrboard have the power to SAFELY drive a silicone bed that draws 15A? I've searched, but cannot find that info. The printrboard has a 4-pin connector that it uses to power the mkI. The MkI draws about 7 - 10A. My understanding is that the silicone heated bed draws up to 15A. I can't find any information on the printrboard wiby cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
Hey Guys, Has anyone had any experience using a silicone heated bed with printrboard? I'm currently using the PCB MkI heated bed, but like the idea of being able to heat a larger print surface with a silicone pad. Has anyone done this (with printrboard)? Did you have to do anything special (ie. hook up a 12v relay, etc.)? Thanks.by cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
Jeffrey, This post may come too late for you, but are several reasons you might see this type of behavior: 1. The grub screw on your pulley(s) may not be tightened, causing your motor shaft to slip. 2. Your belt(s) may not be tight enough, causing your pulley to "skip" over steps in the belt 3. Your acceleration numbers may be too high, causing your motor to fall behind 4. As jbernardis mentionby cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
I don't think this will help 'thedude', but for Travis and jbernardis, make sure your Z constraints (nuts) are all the way in their collars. For example, if you can manually grab your x-axis chassis and lift it up and down along the Z-axis, even a small amount (like 3mm - 5mm) then that may be the cause of your unpredictable z-axis behavior. At least that's what got me. My fix involved taking ofby cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
Hey Morten, Someone else just posted with very similar issues. See if any of the responses are helpful to you. I posted there as well, for me, I had a belt that wasn't tight enough on my X axis and it was causing some slippage. There are some other ideas in that post as well. Good luck.by cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
I had something similar going on with my printer, it ended up being that my belts were too loose, so quick movements would cause the gear to "skip" over the belt - particularly on prints with a larger footprint. The belts weren't saggy loose mind you, just a little bit loose, but that was enough to experience some skips. You can monkey with slowing down the acceleration speeds, etc. (which I didby cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
Hey Seth, A few months ago I went through the same thing you are going through now. I preferred to build a printer over buying it assembled. I did a lot of research on it, but eventually I went with the suggestion from the reprap wiki, the Prusa Mendel. I built the Linear V2 version - that is designed for bearings instead of bushings. Once that was decided, I spent quite a bit of time assemblingby cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics
Hey guys, I wanted to stop back in to say thanks again. I added a 40mm fan and slowed down the print speed a bit. These changes allowed me to keep my hot-end temp at 185. I'm attaching an image of the before and after prints. It's looking much better.by cheeseweasel - General Mendel Topics