Hi, I was thinking of buying a heatbed for the printer I'm building, but because I won't do ABS (or not in the beginning anyway) is it really needed? Can't I just print on a glass plate with blue painters tape, or is there a real improvement? If it would be, what is the difference between an MK2B and an MK3? Thanks, Andreasby Andreas15 - General
Hi, I'm looking after some cheap motors. Something like 17HS4417 is good. I just want a minimum of 4KG torque, offcourse in a Nema17 housing. The problem is that I can't find cheap ones in europe, I found some cheap ones on ebay but they are from china and the shipping costs are like 30$. I want to keep the cost/motor under 10€ (11$). If anyone know a good store that ships from Europe with gooby Andreas15 - General
Quoteo_lampe X to the left is X-max. Y to the front is Y-min. // Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN #define X_HOME_DIR 1 #define Y_HOME_DIR -1 #define Z_HOME_DIR -1 Then the bed will come to the front when homing, but the 0,0,0 point is at the far right side, so you see all the prints from their backside compared to the view in your slicer. -Olaf PS: Don´t forget to change thby Andreas15 - General
I'm creating my own 3D printer and would like to get the bed towards me when doing a home command. This is others than a Prusa, I know, but I think it's more efficïent, because this way you can clean the bed and it just looks more natural to me. Now how do I do this? I think I have to mount the endstop on the front of the machine then? I want to keep the X-homing to the left and the Z-homing dowby Andreas15 - General
Nobody that can simply measure this for me?by Andreas15 - General
Somebody here that could supply me with the dimensions of a Makerbot Mechanical switch board, the holes and how much the little lever is extended from the board. I'm designing a printer and would like to use it. Therefore a 3D design would be even more welcome. Thanks in advance. Andreasby Andreas15 - General
Maybe oiling the shaft a bit can fix the sound to?by Andreas15 - General
Thanks ! I really don't know what to take from hardness. All the Ebay rods tend to be GCr15 too. You use them with linear bearings? It's quiet and smooth? The price from them would be 42€, what is acceptable, if they work.by Andreas15 - General
Quoteo_lampe Free shipping often gets more expensive, when you have to pay tax and customs later. Because tax is calculated on the parts price ( Which often includes the "free shipping" ) You better buy a 20$ part with 20$ shipping, than the same part for 40$ and free shipping. Especially, when you can stay below 20€ for the parts, you don´t pay anything for customs. Also you don´t have to pickby Andreas15 - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist Precision can be a problem, especially if you're trying to print parts to make another printer. Getting beyond the basic precision and accuracy of the positioning mechanisms, how many people bother to actually align the axes of their machines and calibrate their extruders? Using printers to print parts to make other printers is a nice philosophy, but if you think aboutby Andreas15 - General
I was wondering, When printing a RepRap yourself. How accurate do the parts have to be? Just take you make I end with two holes for rods, the distance between the holes is 60mm, you make the other end to put the rods in, the distance between those holes is 59,5. When you insert the rods, they are not parallel and thus the bearing on the carriage are not parallel as well, wil lthe carriage bind oby Andreas15 - General
Hi, I'm getting everything together, and I'm trying to get a nice quality/price balance for all my stuff. It was hard to find the electronics as cheap as possible in the EU (shipping and taxes from USA), but still keeping quality ok. That worked already. I'm totally locked with the rods now. I can't seem to find a good supplier here in EU. I read in another topic: that CF53 would be the best rby Andreas15 - General
I have to agree more with dc42. I'm gonna build my own reprap very soon and wasn't sure what electronics to take. Ramps 1.4, or something like the duet. After all I think I go for the duet. They are more in line with the future (32 bit) and are not much more than the real ramps (105€ instead of 70€) The biggest reasing I was switching between those two was because I rather blow a veeery cheap rby Andreas15 - General
Somebody that uses or used both the printer bearings (bushings) or the LM8UU bearings for 8mm rods? What do you like more?by Andreas15 - Reprappers
I like the rostock type more. I have a printer like the ultimaker (same system) and I don't like it that much. I also guess the rostock will be quieter because of the delta system. I would go for the rostock if I had the money. My 0,02$by Andreas15 - Reprappers
I'm not sure, but when it says uploading tool, does it mean the jumper? I don't have such a boards, but the board of my printer required a jumper over 2 pins in order to upload firmware...by Andreas15 - Reprappers
I have another printer that I think could print it... It's not a reprapby Andreas15 - Reprappers
After looking on the internet a bit to see how good these LM8UU bearings actually are, I saw some posts on this forum about people printing them, but I never read anybody really saying it's better than the standard bearings? I first wanted to take some cheap ebay bearing, but from whar I hear they are crap and make allot of noise. For my new project that I fully designed myself I use 8 LM8UU beaby Andreas15 - Reprappers
I understand what you say. But with his design, he has the extruder on the carriage, wich adds another 240 grams of weight on that side, ending up with allot more on the carriage side. With the bowden that I use, the weight is almost balanced, there is about 100 grams more on the carriage side then on the motors side, when the carriage is in the center. I think that was maybe his biggest need forby Andreas15 - General
No problem, I posted it to get some input. Why would it be not optimal? Why are 2 rods asking for instability?by Andreas15 - General
From them with taxes its 105€, so gonna buy there then I think! Thanks!by Andreas15 - General
The first link is only about setting it up with the ormerod. My printer has different specs, I can't seem to find anything on that page about changing firmware? The Duet is 125€ (95£) from Think3Dprint with shipping to belgium an VAT. Is there any cheaper site?by Andreas15 - General
Indeed, think I'm gonna go for that. Will there be an improvement in printing next to a Ramps board tho? Could you help me via Private Message on changing the firmware for my printer than? Cause I'm a noob in this 3D printer electronics.by Andreas15 - General
It's not a delta, will there be an improvement then? It's more like a standard, fully self cadded, just changed things to be easy and to let it be a cheap printer. Little project Is it worth it, or can I just buy the Ramps1.4?by Andreas15 - General
That's also not the real one I guess? I looked it up a bit and the real ramps + arduino is 70€, can't I better buy a 32 bit all in one board for a bit more then?by Andreas15 - General
Is this a fair price then? Its from germany, not China.by Andreas15 - General
Hi. I'm designing my whole own reprap, because I have a printer already, and want to keep the costs very low to make a second. I think this could become a new reprap :p Now I'm looking for some electronics already tho. I would like to use Nema 17 motors and the Mega2560 + RAMPS 1.4 board with polulu drivers. I think this is the cheapest? I was looking for these RAMPS board, and found some on eby Andreas15 - General