Hi, I'm fixing a Huxley at school that was badly build and just stood there. I came a long way already, but where I have to test the proximity sensor in the manual, I'm stuck. The proximity sensor constantly gives a value of around 917, no matter if I move a paper close to it or not, it's always around the same value when I send G31. I tried some stuff already, but I really can't find what it cby Andreas15 - Huxley
Yes i have a 40mm fan printing at the print.by Andreas15 - Printing
Hi, For first time today, I tried printing 0.3. After about 10 layers the extruder motor started skipping steps. Should I increase the hotend temperature to succeed printing with 0.3 layer height? I increased the hotend temperature to 220°C but my the print was damn ugly. I don't know what to do now. 0.2 worked flawless. I'm printing with PLA Thanks, Andreasby Andreas15 - Printing
It is a precut one, just like the rodsby Andreas15 - Look what I made!
I do not have any, because it was a pretty quick build. But on my next build I will take some pics.by Andreas15 - Look what I made!
I'm using Autodesk Inventor, learned it at school and it's easy to work with!by Andreas15 - General
Nice you like it! I will post some more pictures. What else would you like to know? I think my first post explains allot already?by Andreas15 - Look what I made!
QuoteEzrec Looks to require a minimal number of 'vitamins', and a small number of plastic parts - good job! I also commend you for using the extrusion - the 'bought accuracy' of a precut piece is something that few people understand how to use properly. Thanks! What do you actually mean with your last sentence?by Andreas15 - Look what I made!
Answered, took me about 30 seconds. Very nice survey!by Andreas15 - Reprappers
Hi everybody! I'll begin by introducing myself. I'm Andreas Desmedt, a 15 year old student from Belgium. I do engineering at school. I love technologie, CAD designing and windsurfing :p . I had a Velleman Vertex K8400 as first printer, wich I assembled myself. I began this project about a month ago. I knew a little bit about 3D printing already and I knew how they worked, so research was done fby Andreas15 - Look what I made!
Thanks for your response. I levelled the bed with a feeler gauge of 0.15mm, first layer seems to look good now, don't know what it fixed, but I'm happy already 2. I tried ramping it up by 10% but it is still a problem. I can pull the outer perimeters off and can see that the top layers are not fully solid, maybe higher tempereature can fix this? 3. I'm printing PLA, at the moment at 195°C soby Andreas15 - Printing
I've done building my self designed printer and thus far the mechanical aspect looks very good, but now, offcourse, I'm searching for the optimal print settings, wich are clearly different than for my other pinter. My hotend is an cheap E3D and I'm running marlin on a Ramps 1.4 board. 1. When a print starts, it looks like he can't extrude enough material at the beginning, there is a little bitby Andreas15 - Printing
Yes. Got it fixed that way. But now i cant use cura. Because it doesnt have this option. Isn't there a feature in the firmware that does the same? I have another printer. Bed is 0.3 from nozzle and its still printing like a charm? I like cura more...by Andreas15 - Reprappers
It's working now! After heating up on the bed and doing the skirt it's ok. Other problem now, when laying the first layer, every line is allot to far off from the line next to it (perimeters not touching, infill not touching perimeter and infill lines not touching each other. I don't know why that is, my flow rate is already to high!!by Andreas15 - Reprappers
I checked it, and when in zero 0.1, and first layer height on 0.2, it gives indeed 0.3. But that still seems to high. The filament curls up on the hotend and doesn't stick. What could it be then? On my Velleman Vertex. I set zero height to 0.3, and it still prints perfect when I set first layer height to 0.3. I don't know what causes this at all... Thanks, Andreasby Andreas15 - Reprappers
Here i have a video. First, it heats up. Then it moves to the bed, but it's way to far from the bed, so it drags the filament with the nozzle until there is a blob of filament and it sticks, but only very bad. Corners are rounded and sometimes he cant lay a straight line. The bed is perfectly level and there is a 0.1mm distance between nozzle and bed while homing. When i start a print it does thiby Andreas15 - Reprappers
This is the beginning ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 15.01 ; Default start code G28 ; Home extruder G1 Z15 F100 M106 ; Turn on fan G90 ; Absolute positioning M82 ; Extruder in absolute mode M190 S45 ; Activate all used extruder M104 T0 S195 G92 E0 ; Reset extruder position ; Wait for all used extruders to reach temperature M109 T0 S195 ;Layer count: 250 ;LAYER:0 M106 S255 G0 F9000 X71.800 Y7by Andreas15 - Reprappers
Tried that too, still to high. I can also see it, when homing, the endstop is pushed in, when printing, it's above the little endstop button. It's even visible with the eye.by Andreas15 - Reprappers
I'm building my own reprap, and I'm having issues with my first test print. I've levelled the bed with a 0.3 feeler gauge, wich went perfect. When I start a print this happens : All axis home Z axis goes up Everything begins heating Printer goes to printing location printer tries printing first layer When he tries to print the first layer, I can see that it's way higher than what I set it ontby Andreas15 - Reprappers
Hi, I was wondering is you need a flat shaft on your stepper motor if you want to mount a pulley or coupler on it. On ebay and such I can't find allot with flat shafts. Think3Dprint's motor come with flat shafts, but are quite exspensive for me. So, Is it really needed, what will it affect? Thanks, Andreasby Andreas15 - General
QuoteAndreas15 Thanks, I read that fully. Now, after reading, I noticed that the MK3 from Reprap.me looks different than the one I ordered. I ordered this one It has a hole in the center but not a hole in the center on top. The reprap.me one has no hole in the center, but it has a hole in the center on top for easier bed levelling. Is it another version and could I better buy the one from rby Andreas15 - General
Thanks, I read that fully. Now, after reading, I noticed that the MK3 from Reprap.me looks different than the one I ordered. I ordered this one It has a hole in the center but not a hole in the center on top. The reprap.me one has no hole in the center, but it has a hole in the center on top for easier bed levelling. Is it another version and could I better buy the one from reprap.me? Thanby Andreas15 - General
I bought the MK2B with a glass plate, too late :/, but I can probably still cancle it, is it worth the extra 10$?by Andreas15 - General
ARGGH, I really can't find allot else.by Andreas15 - General
QuoteAndreas15 I found these on ebay, the seller sells from Belgium, and I live in belgium. The price is okay. (65 for 5) and the torque seems good, anybody knows this type. It's rated 1.5A, 3.75V and 4.5Kg holding torque. Could that work? I can't find them on the internet, are they ok?by Andreas15 - General
Thanks I'll get a heatbed with glass then, it isn't that exspensiveby Andreas15 - General
I found these on ebay, the seller sells from Belgium, and I live in belgium. The price is okay. (65 for 5) and the torque seems good, anybody knows this type. It's rated 1.5A, 3.75V and 4.5Kg holding torque. Could that work?by Andreas15 - General
So do you actually don't need a glass plate on an MK3? What do you prefer? On an MK2 you can print directly onto the glass, but with the MK3 you still have to mess with painters tape?by Andreas15 - General