Use your multi-meter diode test function. It should only beep(conduct) in one direction. You'll have to test the diode when it is not installed on the board. More Diode Testing information hereby ShadowRam - Reprappers
matrix4721 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi all, ive tried what shadowram said about > removing the diode on the ramps board and powering > it from both the USB and the 12v input and its > working again, aside from needing the USB being > connected all the time are there any downsides to > doing it this way? btw im using the gadgets3d lcd >by ShadowRam - Reprappers
This supplier's website looks sketch as $#%@by ShadowRam - General
I thought the proper term was Shunt Diode. Used on relays too to dump the magnetic collapse from back feeding through an output on a microcontroller. The RAMPS 1.4 does have an LED in parallel with the output load. Does that help shunt the back feeding?by ShadowRam - Controllers
Just check the RAMPS 1.4 wiki. This firmware here is a good one to put into the Arduino first It will test all the LED's and output to all the Stepper Motors to move back and forth a little bit.by ShadowRam - Controllers
rhmorrison Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > Right, but he doesn't have much a choice, unless > he wants to buy a new Mega 2560 > > > Why that? > Worst case all he needs is to add an LM7805 to his > circuit to derive the 5V from his 12V supply. No. If he does that, he could ruin the board even more. You don't want to backfeed 5V into thby ShadowRam - Reprappers
rhmorrison Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you ever want to run stand alone using LCD and > SD card then I don't recommend running off the USB > 5V. Right, but he doesn't have much a choice, unless he wants to buy a new Mega 2560 And even if he did want to use these later without buying a new Arduino, he could just hack an old USB cord in half, and wby ShadowRam - Reprappers
Ok, So you measured 4.88V. That's good. No need to go buy anything yet. EDIT: Sorry, I though you measured this at your EndStop connection points, but re-reading it looks like you read this off a 5V regulator not attached to anything. Check the 2nd picture attached and measure VCC while the USB is plugged in. If you are getting 5V at VCC, then across the board is getting 5V. Most likely it'sby ShadowRam - Reprappers
Strange, Are your Heat Resistor wires wrapped around your thermistor wires? The high current from the Heat Resistor turning on and off creates a pretty good magnetic field, and could be affecting the low voltage reading of the thermistor.by ShadowRam - Reprappers
Good to know, I put a bit of thermal compound in the center of the resistor and the end of the thermistor to help with thermal conductivity. But then I used Muffler Putty on the outside to adhere the two into place. Hopefully it works. I've only brought the hotend so far up to 50degC with a 9V battery, and the thermistor appears to react immediately I was measuring the resistance of the theby ShadowRam - Reprappers
Attached is a picture where I'm pointing to the area with a file, that I had a problem with. I had to file down quite a bit material to make sure the bearing didn't grind against the bottom.by ShadowRam - Reprappers
Fri Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Did anyone install a emergency stop switch? Is > there a open input on the board? To have a proper E-Stop, you would want the E-Stop circuit to interrupt the 12VDC inputs to the board. Wiring a button to a input, and stopping the system via software is not a valid Emergency Stop.by ShadowRam - General
BobHewson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Shadowram, > > Are you suggesting that I set my bed by setting to > "paper" clearance at the 4 corners of the bed to > the homing height of "Z"? I can see this as being > as easy and likely more precise than using a > level, either bubbble or electronic. > > What about 3 measurement points insby ShadowRam - General
Yeah it should do the trick. You aren't pulling a lot of current on these 5V lines, it's mostly just for signalling. But you should find the pins on the Arduino first while it is plugged into the USB, and make sure my theory that those 5V Supply pins aren't working is correct.by ShadowRam - Reprappers
If you connected the wrong two rows on the end stops you shorted it out. Your mechanical switches shorted the 5V+ and Ground. I'll have to check the schematic to see what could have burnt as a result of doing this. EDIT: Yup, looks like you blew VCC which looks like its a regulated +5VDC source from the Arduino itself. So you have 2 choices. Replace the Arduino, or hack in your own 5V regulaby ShadowRam - Reprappers
Homing direction needs to be set in the Marlin firmware. Can you post the relevant endstop section of your configuration.h?by ShadowRam - Reprappers
BE WARNED The idler bearing can 'bottom out' and stop spinning on the Wades Gear Extruder, when the hinged part is moved forward. I had to file down a fair amount of material indicated by the end of my file in the picture attached. The bearing would turn freely, but as soon as I put the idler in place close to the hobbed bolt, it wouldn't turn anymore.by ShadowRam - General
You may want to drop the stepper requirement. Geared servo might work out better for your application.by ShadowRam - General
How does the car exhaust putty hold up other than this problem you are having? Does it conduct heat?by ShadowRam - Reprappers
What hotend are you using? Are you actively cooling the top part of the hotend with a fan?by ShadowRam - General
I think eDrawings can load STL files, and I believe it has a measuring function in it.by ShadowRam - Reprappers
I see you are using the Greg Wades Extruder, I have found a problem with it. The idler bearing can spin freely, but When you push your hinged idler all the way up and push it towards the hobbed bolt, does your idler still spin? I've found that the idler bottoms out as it gets closer to the hobbed bolt. I had to file down the area right below the idler to stop this from happening.by ShadowRam - Reprappers
Sounds like your EndStops are shorting out the system. Are you using Mechanical Switches for EndStops? Are they wired correctly?by ShadowRam - Reprappers
That I'm trying to figure out myself. I'm at work at the moment, and I don't know the answer to that. Sorry It has to be at the point where you put the STL file into Slic3r to make the Gcode.by ShadowRam - General
The center of origin when I made the part is the geometric center of the part. (Best Modeling Practices) What's your print center set to? http://brazenartifice.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/slic3rs-filament-settings.jpg NOTE your picture of the graph from Pronter Face. Each little square is 10mm x 10mm. (You can tell because the part is 7 squares long and 5 square wide) So you have placed thby ShadowRam - General
You would be better setting up a 2:1 gear ratio.by ShadowRam - General
I'm driving 2 of these with the RAMPS 1.4 and A4988 Pololu driver, with the pots at about 30%. No issues, But I have heat-sinks on them, and a fan blowing on them. Also my setup might be lower resistance to move around than some of the standard RepRaps as the X and Y are on rails with rollers, instead of linear slides.by ShadowRam - Controllers
Quick Question, Why are you using Teacup? It appears Teacup is meant for slower small microprocessors. If you are using RAMPS 1.4, I'm assuming you have a mega 2560?? You may want to use Sprinter or Marlin as your firmware.by ShadowRam - General
aduy Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I would recommend a 12v 30a led power supply, at > this point no one should be messing around with an > atx psu, they provide unreliable current and > voltage, and are a pain to set up. someone needs > to change the instructions on the wiki page. How do you figure that? An ATX power supply will be much more condby ShadowRam - General