QuoteBlue Ice Quotepsneddon Blue Ice, Yes please! I never say no to information! The hobbed bolt I'm waiting on supposedly has the center of the hobbed portion at around 28.5 mm from the bottom of the bolt head. Mine was about that much as well, so you should be OK. Sounds good! Thanks again.by psneddon - Prusa i3 and variants
Blue Ice Thanks again. I'll check mine over once I receive it in the mail. I received my MK2B heated bed and hooked up the wires to it and measured the resistance and I'm getting 2.6 ohms. Most of the information I've read about this heated bed states that the resistance should be 1.2 to 1.3 ohms. Is this correct? I have the negative lead hooked to pad #1 and the positive lead hooked to pad #2by psneddon - Prusa i3 and variants
Blue Ice, Yes please! I never say no to information! The hobbed bolt I'm waiting on supposedly has the center of the hobbed portion at around 28.5 mm from the bottom of the bolt head.by psneddon - Prusa i3 and variants
I missed your reply. I went ahead and bought the following: MK2B heated bed Thermistor - 100K 3950 1% NTC thermistor w/1 meter cable attached Hobbed bolt with the hobbed portion cenetered around 26 to 31mm from bottom of bolt head. I hope I got the right thing(s).by psneddon - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBlue Ice Hey guys- Ano, thanks for mentioning the picture confusion with whether the motor should be at the front or the back. I fixed it in the introduction post and added a note that the motor should be at the front as per the build instructions. I also got the next build log post published, covering the extruder setup. It seems that you won't need it after all, though, because you haveby psneddon - Prusa i3 and variants
I found some information on line on how to check the rotary encoder with an Arduino UNO board. I went ahead and loaded the sketch onto Arduino 1.0.5 and hooked the rotary encoder up as per the diagram here: I was able to check my rotary encoder and found that it works fine. I was getting the range from +12 through zero and down to -12. So, I'll still need to try and find out why the selector kby psneddon - General
Quotepsneddon Quoteddurkee0 I had missed your other information. Don't change anything in the config.h file. The tab you need to click on in configuration.h not config.h. The mother board define does need to be 33 not a text name. The installation of the library is the same as any other arduino library.... place the U8glib library file in the folder ...\\My Documents\Arduino\Libraries (my path isby psneddon - General
Quoteddurkee0 I had missed your other information. Don't change anything in the config.h file. The tab you need to click on in configuration.h not config.h. The mother board define does need to be 33 not a text name. The installation of the library is the same as any other arduino library.... place the U8glib library file in the folder ...\\My Documents\Arduino\Libraries (my path is C:\Users\Daveby psneddon - General
Well, I tried all the steps you suggested but still no luck. Dim display and the scroll knob doesn't work. Using Marlin 1.6.0.... should I try an older version?by psneddon - General
Quoteddurkee0 Hi psneddon, It was a problem in the Marlin files for the Arduino MEGA2560. I recommend you get the latest revision. (And also get any required libraries.) Using the Arduino IDE, from your sketchbook, open Marlin. Find the tab for configuration.h and open the file. Go through all of the statements #DEFINE and make sure the values match what you have on your personal REPRAP. I don'tby psneddon - General
Quoteddurkee0 I found that I could use the latest Marlin and Arduino (Marlin-Marlin_v1, Arduino 1.0.5). The problem was that I didn't set all of the required configuration items in the Configuration.h file/tab. The Full Graphics Display is fine. The Ebay seller just didn't know to tell me to check the configuration.h or how to troubleshoot a blank display) I followed a tutorial walk-through on onby psneddon - General
Quoteblim Having trouble getting this controller work. When turning the rotary encoder nothing happens. When I push it I get to a menu, but it is not possible to scroll down the menu. Display works fine, but it is useless if I'm not able to navigate with the turn knob. Controller is the one pictured earlier in this thread from Robotale. I had the same problem and posted question about it a whileby psneddon - General
QuoteBlue Ice This one seems pretty misleading: Well. I'll either switch the photo out or add a note in there to clear things up. Thanks for the tips. By the way, are you nearly at the latest build log? I can get the next one up soon if it helps- I didn't know people liked them so much, so I wasn't especially concerned about time Yes. That one shows the motor to the rear - as does the one pby psneddon - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBlue Ice Quotepsneddon QuoteBlue Ice Awesome! QuoteJoe2014 Just got a text from DHL. My kit shall arrive tomorrow! Just in time for the weekend. I'll probably post my thoughts during the build, possible some video logs. I'm excited! Hopefully nothing was damaged in shipping... My kit arrived just a couple days ago, as you can see above. I'm through the first big step (here), and I haven'tby psneddon - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBlue Ice Awesome! QuoteJoe2014 Just got a text from DHL. My kit shall arrive tomorrow! Just in time for the weekend. I'll probably post my thoughts during the build, possible some video logs. I'm excited! Hopefully nothing was damaged in shipping... My kit arrived just a couple days ago, as you can see above. I'm through the first big step (here), and I haven't run into any issues yet. Whby psneddon - Prusa i3 and variants
Hello there LittleMike. Did you ever manage to print something to see if it printed backwards? I am in the middle (?) of building my Rework I3 and I found that I had mounted my Y-axis motor to the rear as well. My motor is also located to the left side of the motor mount - closer to the main board and Ramps 1.4 board. I haven't hooked anything up yet and my z-axis rods haven't been installed yeby psneddon - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm a newcomer like yourself and from most of the posts I've read on the subject, most of the people seem to start off with PLA and then advance(?) to ABS. Since you haven't ordered your printed parts yet (extruder) make sure you specify what size filament you plan on using - 1.75mm or 3mm. Both of the PLA and ABS filaments are sold in those two sizes - 1.75mm and 3mm From my understanding, yoby psneddon - General
Do you mean make sure the D1 and D2 diodes are on the RAMPS board? What if they aren't there?by psneddon - General
Thanks for the video link(s)! I checked out the eMaker site and this is the style of printed parts I have: I'll probably go with a mechanical end stop myself instead of the optical. The heated bed is like the one I plan on getting - the MK-2. No post today due to the holiday, so I'm still waiting on my rods. Looks like you have a good selection of rods there. About all the rods I was lookinby psneddon - General
Hello and welcome from another beginner. I am also working on putting together an I3 Rework 3d printer. I went the same route as you and started purchasing my parts over the last month or so (still waiting on the smooth and threaded rods). I haven't purchased a hotend, heated bed or end stops yet - wanted to get most of the mechanical end done first. The power supply looks like the one I got aby psneddon - General
Great diagrams! I will probably get the J-head from the original inventor, as has been recommended by you both - Blue Ice & Zerker. Many thanks!by psneddon - General
I read the article on J-head clones and I think it really helped knowing the differences. It looked like most of the clones use an aluminum block head while the original ones use a brass head. Also, the information on the venting was very informative. So, I waded (no pun intended) through the ones on eBay and found this one: It has a .35mm head for 3mm filament. Also, there's this one: Alsby psneddon - General
Yes, I was looking for a hot end that had one of the listed thermistors - still researching. I put the u8glib library in two places and compiled it with no problems - the configuration.h tab and the first tab that opens up (can't remember the name right now). The E3D hot end you refer to - isn't that a Bowden hot-end? Can I put a Bowden on a Wade extruder? I didn't know that 3mm was recommendeby psneddon - General
More great info! Many thanks. Yes, I'm using Marlin firmware. I was looking it over and seems to be one of the standard firmwares for 3d printing. I was able to test out my Ramps 1.4 and stepper motors and have managed to get Pronterface working the motors without having anything else hooked up - still dabbling and piecing it all together. I also purchased a RepRap Full Graphic LCD 12864 displby psneddon - General
Thanks again for the feedback. I'll have to see if the seller would sell me just that part. I'm getting a lot of good information and advice from your answers to everyone. I'm still waiting for my smooth and threaded rods to come in the mail. As I mentioned in a previous post, I have the majority of the parts, however I still need to get a hot end, heated bed, glass (or painters tape) thermistorby psneddon - General
Any idea what size hobbed bolt this extruder takes? All of the build lists I've looked at don't give any lengths or information where the hobbed portion begins.by psneddon - General
OOPS!! I think I messed up on the X-End idler assembly. The bearing was putting too much outward pressure on the printed part and I didn't want it to split, so I removed the tapered inner rings. I had to do this for the Y-Axis idler to get it to fit, so I figured the same for this part. Unfortunately, the bearing didn't sit centered like I thought it should. Back to the instructions and.... Iby psneddon - General
Thank you for the quick reply. I thought as much, but I like to make sure. Sort of like the old saying "measure twice and cut once" = no going back here. Thanks. Peteby psneddon - General
I'm one of the new guys and I'm ankle deep right now getting all the pieces together for my Prusa I3 Rework. I didn't buy a kit - I've been buying everything pieces at a time. I have the majority of the parts with the exception of the endstops, heatbed, hotend and thermistors. One question I have (of many I'm sure) concerns the extruder assembly of the printed parts I purchased. I have attachedby psneddon - General
I have the Arduino MEGA 2560 + RAMPS 1.4 + 12864 LCD Display hooked up to my laptop USB port. Nothing else is hooked up. I also ran the same set up directly from the 12V power supply (without the USB connection) and I get the same result. I timed the display and it goes into a sort of sleep mode after about 1 minute. The backlight stays on - I have a bright blue background, but the display charby psneddon - RAMPS Electronics