I looked at the manual, but it's in Spanish. Is there an English version ou there? Looks really good though - Good Job!by psneddon - Look what I made!
Quoterepetier Check commands send! I guess it sends correct commands and firmware/printer hardware causes this. Why is not really clear to me except if you have autoleveling enabled. There if you have big skew moving one axis will always move the others a bit. What do you mean by "check commands send"? I don't have autoleveling enabled in the Marin firmware.by psneddon - Repetier
I originally posted this in the RepRapper section, but no responses. Maybe someone has seen this happen in Repetier Host? ? This has been going on for a while, but I don't know what's causing it. I have an I3 Rewok printer and run CURA from my laptop through USB port. I load a model into CURA and hit the "Print with USB" icon and wait for the Pronterface UI print window to come up and for tby psneddon - Repetier
This has been going on for a while, but I don't know what's causing it. I have an I3 Rewok printer and run CURA from my laptop through USB port. I load a model into CURA and hit the "Print with USB" icon and wait for the Pronterface UI print window to come up and for the printer to connect (temperatures are shown for hotend and bed). If I try to raise my print head with the +Z Tool Up interfby psneddon - Reprappers
I decided to order a new hobbed bolt. In the meantime, I found a video on youTube about repairing a hobbed bolt so I went ahead and tried "re-grooving" it with a power drill and an M4 tap. I managed to get a bit of an edge back on the hobbed bolt and put everything back together to try it out. I ran the extrusion calibration routine a couple of times and re-flashed the firmware and began printingby psneddon - Reprappers
Well, I found that my extruder motor gear was a bit loose, so I tightened it up and ran the 100 extrusion test and reset my E-steps. It is able to print, but not very well. The extruder makes that crackling sound like it's grinding the filament, but adjusting the idler tension isn't working. I'm going to order a new hobbed bolt. Is it possible for the PLA filament to wear out/destroy a hobbed bby psneddon - Reprappers
Well, no luck. Still stuttering. I may have to get another hobbed bolt to rule that out. Any suggestions?by psneddon - Reprappers
Quotereifsnyderb Hello, Normally, PLA is burned out with a torch if you can't clear it any other way. Also, for re-assembly, you need to remove that small tube that goes through the hollow set-screw in the top. (It should pull out with a small pointed pick of some sort. I use dental picks.) Then, the hollow set-screw can be used to adjust the ptfe liner tension. The small tube is then pusheby psneddon - Reprappers
I screwed the heatbreak on part way so any heat wouldn't touch the PTFE liner and was able to use a soldering iron (inserted into the resistor hole) to heat up the nozzle enough to gently pull the remaining strand of PLA out of the nozzle. I believe all of the PLA has been removed - I performed a 100C pull of the filament before I removed the hot end and the filament had a bit of a 'bulb' with aby psneddon - Reprappers
Quotefrankvdh Just to clarify nomenclature... The brass nozzle screws into the heater block. The heat break screws into the heater block from the top. The heat sink screws onto the heat break. The heater cartridge goes into a hole in the side of the heater block, held in place by a grub screw. Generally speaking, you should screw/unscrew the nozzle whilst the heater block is hot, because there wby psneddon - Reprappers
I have a MK-V J-Head extruder (from my I3 Reowrk printer) that, after several months of use, started giving me problems - stops extruding plastic during printing and extruder gear/motor stuttering. I removed the J-head and unthreaded the brass head from the heat break (?) and wanted to clean it out, but I think I should have left it heated up for a while to let the PLA ooze out of it over time pby psneddon - Reprappers
Quotekellef Okay, I finally removed the retraction completely and starter to use the web interface, the result was great, with no skipping! But now I have another problem! The retraction made the prints look nicer, but most importantly, I could lift Z so I wouldn't damage the print! So what retraction settings are you guys using that actually works? I will also try the "avoid crossing parametersby psneddon - Fisher
Yes. That's what I thought as well. It looks like it may have been one bigger bulb (or pill-like piece) that stretched in the middle when pulling it out. I'm glad I was able to get it working again without any serious issues (yet). I bought some taulman filament just in case and when searching for a thin wire to run through the hot end I came across some beading wire (.35mm). Do you think thatby psneddon - Fisher
Jelle - By saying "you can_not_not_get a 'bulb'" do you mean that you CAN get a bulb? I learned a lot today from this problem. I loosened the idler and looked at the hobbed bolt and the teeth were caked with filament (not too much any where else, which was good). I removed the hobbed bolt and thoroughly cleaned it with a toothpick and put everything back together and heated the hot end up. I raby psneddon - Fisher
QuoteTheolodian In slic3r. It pulls back a few mm and slams it back forward with the same speed setting. More prevalent when moving across open spaces but also does it every layer. Mine had issues at 3,000mm/min - dropped to 2500 and much happier even though I increased the retraction distance a bit. You end up with a bulb at the end of the filament between the end of the bowden tube and where thby psneddon - Fisher
Tried to post to this thread but kept getting an error. The site thought I was a robot! Ended up with posting the same comments twice!by psneddon - Fisher
I'm not sure about ABS, but the bottom layer of PLA will curve up at the corners if you leave the heated bed on for too long. I usually turn the heated bed down to about 40C after the first few layers and to zero for the last dozen or so layers. The heated bed is just necessary to get it to adhere to the build plate. Please, correct me if I'm wrong here..by psneddon - Printing
I'm using version 15.04. I tried looking at the object through the different modes - especially the layers mode - and it only shows the new object I want to print, but still prints the previous object. I usually print one object at a time and deleting the object and loading a new one doesn't work - still prints last object printed. I remember there's a "clear platform" selection from the dropby psneddon - Printing
I have a strange problem lately. I've been using CURA for a while now with my I3 Rework printer without any issues until recently. After I print an object ("A") and delete it from the platform I load a new object ("B") on the platform but when I start printing it starts printing the old object ("A") again! I have to close CURA ans start it up again to print a new object. Does anyone have any idby psneddon - Printing
Just a thought, but did you try it without the display plugged in? I've read in past posts where the LCD display can cause issues. I purchased a 2004 LCD a while ago, but I haven't hooked it up yet. I run my I3 rework directly from my computer, so you should be able to at least connect through Pronterface without any issues to check everything out - assuming everything else is wired correctly.by psneddon - General
Some boards have the connector pins soldered to the board and some don't. After I finished my build I noticed my Ramps 1.4 board didn't come with the connector either. I didn't want to solder the wires to the board since I already had everyhting plugged in and running, so I ended up stripping the wires and hooking them up to the D9 plug on the Ramps board. I have been printing fine with the fby psneddon - Prusa i3 and variants
Sarf2k4 - I'm using PLA, so the temperatures would be a lot lower, but I agree with you about the temperature calibration print. Thanks for the advice Alexander1984. I gave up on the benchy test and went ahead and printed a couple of other test items with no problems. Looking back at the speeds (75mm/s for printing and 150mm/s travel speed) may have indeed contributed to the problem. The otherby psneddon - Printing
Where did you get the stl file from? Have you tried printing a similar object from elsewhere? When using CURA, load the object select the "View Mode" icon on the top right of the screen, select the "Layers" option and scroll through the print layer by layer to see if the layer shift shows up.by psneddon - General
AH! There it is! Thanks JamesK! I never thought to look at "Platform adhesion type". I selected "none" as you said and the skirt didn't show up on the platform, so I went to the "View Mode" icon on the screen, selected the "Layers" option, scrolled down to the first layer and there was the skirt! Sorry Olaf! I didn't realize how to turn off both from the basic screen. All is good now!!by psneddon - Printing
I have CURA set for no raft (0) and the brim cannot be set to zero - the minmum is 1. I have both set accordingly, but still no skirt. I looked at the CURA manual (pdf) and I couldn't find any info there either. I also tried to find any videos that showed CURA printing a skirt on the bed - no luck.by psneddon - Printing
Does anyone know how to print a line of PLA around the object you're trying to print when using CURA? I've looked in the Software section of the RepRap forum, but there's no CURA category - Pronterface, Slic3r and just about every other slicer is there, but not CURA. I went to the expert settings and have the "skirt" settings set at: Line count: 8 - originally set at 3 Start distance (mm): 3.0by psneddon - Printing
FWIW. I had a bit of a y-axis shift myself. The worst was about 10 to 12 millimeters as shown here: I checked the belt tension and the bearings with no noticeable problems. When the shifting happened again, I checked the motor and driver board temperatures to see if they were overheating, which could cause the motor to mis stepps. However, both were cool to the touch. My solution was to turnby psneddon - Printing
I am trying to get my I3 Rework properly tuned and calibrated and I seem to be making progress. I tried to print one of the I3 Rework Y-corners, but ran into a problem with a bit of Y-axis shift as shown here: After much reading through the forum posts, I determined it was either the bearings jamming or not enough current to the motor. I checked to see if either the motor or driver board wereby psneddon - Printing
If your using the latest OS X (Maverick), you should see the port choices as shown in this screen capture: I don't really use the Maverick OS, but as you can see it was able to connect. I think Olaf was correct earlier about a USB driver - I remember having to download a driver. If you google "CH341SER_MAC.zip" you should be able to find the driver. I connect to my 3d printer through the oldeby psneddon - General
I'm sorry for asking this, but did you load the Marlin firmware onto the Arduino? Is your printer completely assembled - with hot end and heated bed thermistors installed? Again, I apologize for asking these questions, but it helps to know exactly where you are in your build. When I started building my I3 Rework, I remember trying to run the stepper motors from Pronterface without my hot end orby psneddon - General