Thats a good point and I had not considered using gearing before when I finally get around to building a bigger machine I already have bigger stepper motors and seperate MSD542 stepper drivers which give me a large range of micro stepping sizes , right up to 25000 micro steps , so I am sure with both gearing and the right choice of step size I could get around non full step issues I was planby Don Recardo - Ormerod
Quotejstck I'm on duet/panel firmware 1.04b / 1.09. I've changed everything "new"and I have gcode files using both tool 0 and 1, and I was able to print both kinds by defining both T0 and T1 (being the same tool, on my single-extruder machine): M563 P0 D0 H1 M563 P1 D0 H1 It seems to work, only downside I can see is that the user interface thinks there are two separate tools. Are there any realby Don Recardo - Ormerod
thats really helpful Just what I was looking for Thanks everyone for your input Donby Don Recardo - Ormerod
Hi I am lucky enough to have aquired some linear rails and carraiges so I am thinking of building a bigger printer If I want to use a larger diameter threaded Z rod to lift the Z axis , lets say for arguments sake an 8mm diameter then the pitch of the thread is different to our normal 5mm thread for a normal 5mm rod the pitch is 0.8mm for an 8mm rod the pitch is 1.25mm So obviouslyby Don Recardo - Ormerod
Great news I updated the firmware in my Duet, my Panel Due and the web interface and its working fine I tried making a new gcode in slicer and that printed fine too so everything seems ok now Thanks for the help Donby Don Recardo - Ormerod
QuoteVortyZA I haven't used Kapton tape for more than a year now - I use 'extreme hold' hairspray straight on the glass for PLA and haven't needed anything else since I started that. I found the Kapton was difficult to source, expensive when you could, was difficult to apply nicely and caused artifacts on the print - pieces dislodging and sticking to the print, or causing little lines from accideby Don Recardo - Ormerod
so do I just add T0 to my start code so it becomes T0 G28 Z0 M83 Quotedc42 So you don't need to change your start gcode. But is a good idea to put a T command in your start gcode, to select the hot end at the start. If you don't do this, you may find that when a print has finished, if you want to start another one then you have to send that T0 or T1 command first for the print to succeed. Thby Don Recardo - Ormerod
That poses a problem In my start code for slicer I dont seem to have a T1 , all my start code says is G28 Z0 M83 quote=dc42] QuoteDon Recardo Thank you both for the answers I will upgrade soon I take it there is nothing I need to change in slic3r When you change the tool numbering, you will need to change T1 in your start gcode to T0.by Don Recardo - Ormerod
Thank you both for the answers I will upgrade soon I take it there is nothing I need to change in slic3r Donby Don Recardo - Ormerod
Ok so I am a numpty who doesnt understand , so can some one explain it for me I read in earlier posts that RRP have changed the tool number from T1 to T0 , ( or the other way around ) and I believe DC42 and ZPL have followed suit with their latest releases, but , how will this affect me ? Right now I am running DC42s 1.00o ,in the Duet and 1.07 in the Panel Due and ZPLs web 1.03 so up toby Don Recardo - Ormerod
You normally see that message when someone has complained to Ebay that a copy or imitation is being sold . It gives you the right to back out of the deal if you were expecting the real mcCoy Don Quoteezwul Interesting when I look at my ebay purchase history for the hotend it now states: "We had to remove this listing from the site and you're not required to complete the transaction. If youby Don Recardo - Ormerod
Hi Dave , are you still planning to add code for control using the rotary encoder on the Panel Due board I'm hoping so as I fitted the encoder on my board Donby Don Recardo - Ormerod
Quotefotomas Ha ha, that's funny. That part is my creation. And the reason for me asking for a link was to se what else there is out there to improve bed levelling. And then you link to "my" part, just lovely! The part worked great for me and I am very glad you designed it, I no longer need to use bed compensation Donby Don Recardo - Ormerod
Hi Toma here is the part Don Quotefotomas QuoteDon Recardo I printed and fitted the Y axis bearing holder with adjuster for setting the bed level Interesting, what is this part? Link? /Tomasby Don Recardo - Ormerod
Thanks Dave I made a new long brass nut and have cut a new threaded rod from a length of 5mm stainless all thread A 1 meter length cost me £4 but will make three Z rodsby Don Recardo - Ormerod
Thanks Dave , you have quite a point there regarding bed compensation and the extra wear I printed and fitted the Y axis bearing holder with adjuster for setting the bed level the last time I changed the captive nut so no longer use bed comp and I put the lack of wear down to not using the oil any more but as you say its more likely the bed comp had been wearing it out As for a long brass nutby Don Recardo - Ormerod
Do you lubricate your Z axis ? no, that's not a euphemism , do you oil the 5mm threaded rod that lifts the X arm up and down? I did but found it caused problems , where the oil had been it started to create a black buildup , ( it felt a bit rubbery ) . I dont know if its the oil mixing with dust in the air , or maybe fine filings as the nut wears out but what ever it was it made it hard to tby Don Recardo - Ormerod
Hi Dave Thanks for the link to the backwash eleiminator Donby Don Recardo - Ormerod
HI Dave ( dc42 ) On your first post in this thread you show some pictures of your new Z probe ( which I have and works great thanks) In the pictures you can see the the printed Parts for the heat sink duct, the fan duct, but there is another green printed piece mounted over the blades of the fan. ( it looks like a green square box with fan blades ) What is this piece , what is it for , and caby Don Recardo - Ormerod
I decided to Put one of Daves great Panel Dues on my Ormerod 2 but I dont fancy mounting it on the printer . Knowing my luck I would at some time bump into it and break it or the printer as a result. Instead I used Daves design for the enclosure but intead of using his normal screw on lid I made my own with legs on so that the display can sit anywhere on the desk at a nice slope that makes it eby Don Recardo - Ormerod
I had a similar situation where one day it was working fine and the next day it refused to connect via the web . As far as I was aware I had changed nothing , but I recopied the original web folder from the reprap masters folder onto the SD card again incase it had somehow got screwed up, and sure enough after restarting the duet it connected fineby Don Recardo - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts I think someone else did this mod ages ago, and shared the file. Alternatively, put a cable tie around the Bowden tube, and through the hole in the tongue. Ian RepRapPro tech support I didnt realise they had, I only got my printer this year so I hadn't been looking at the forum when it came outby Don Recardo - Ormerod
Thanks for the heads up Jon I will download the experimental version and give it a try , I thought I was cracking up at first because I couldnt see where to flip the X and Y but of course in the version I have you cant , but Erik pointed out it was Simplify3d he was referring to I would like to make the stand alone enclosure but my display is 5" so it wont fit as is Donby Don Recardo - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 QuoteJon Steward ..I managed to flip the object around the Z axis but not managed to invert it. (see print) there are no silly questions, only silly answers Flip it around the y-axis instead, then drop on table, that should fix it Erik Hi Eric What version of Slic3r is that. I cant find that page on my version 1.1.7 and I can only see how to rotate it around the Z axiz ,by Don Recardo - Ormerod
Its happened twice now . During a print the little tongue that holds the bowden tube into the extruder body fell out the result being it stops extruding and the print is ruined. Last night it really peed me off because it had been printing for almost 4 hours and I sat with it to make sure nothing went wrong, about half an hour before it was due to finish I nipped out to make a cuppa and when Iby Don Recardo - Ormerod
Are you sure it sticks and its not just the fact that stepper motors run notchy They dont rotate smoothly like a normal motor but go around in a series of small clicks . You may be mistaking this for a sticking bearing especially when you said it sticks in a regular repeating way Donby Don Recardo - Ormerod
Hi Dave Just to let you know my X-Arm kit arrived today Thanks Donby Don Recardo - Ormerod
Cheers Dave Thats great news , I look forwards to fitting it Donby Don Recardo - Ormerod
Hi Dave Any update on the new arms for those of us that have ordered one. Regards Donby Don Recardo - Ormerod
Thanks Dave , Will watch out for your post requesting pre payment Donby Don Recardo - Ormerod