The last two days I spent a little time each day swapping out what I had to for 24V and re-wiring the bed heater and cleaning it all up, and the 24v PSU arrived today. I have to say I'm quite happy with the upgrade. With the 12v PSU, the main 14Ga feed would get a little warm, the bed heater wires got what I felt was uncomfortably warm, the lexan that the controller is mounted to would get quiteby Cougar281 - Prusa i3 and variants
I might have something else that's not right in the firmware. Spent a little time over the last two evenings swapping out the hot end heaters, throat cooling fan and re-wiring the bed for 24V and buttoning it all back up nice and neat. Just got the 24v power supply today and fired it up. It does seem like it heats faster with 24V. Anyway, the problem appeared when I tried to heat the second notzzby Cougar281 - Firmware - Marlin
There is no heatsink, but there is an opening - the fans sole purpose in life is to cool the throats down and keep the heat from the hot end from soaking them. As far as designing one, I'd love to, but designing something like that is WAY above my pay grade at this point. I couldn't even make a stick with a hole in one end and a slot in the other (to replace a broken part on my daughters easel)by Cougar281 - Prusa i3 and variants
Before the power supply croaking, I printed out a PETG temp tower, and to be honest, from 250 all the way down to 220 (which is a bit below the recommended minimum), I really couldn't distinguish much difference. The columns seemed fine from top to bottom, but all of the overhangs had issues and the bridges were a total loss. I did a little more reading, and it seems like a cooling fan is somewheby Cougar281 - Prusa i3 and variants
Welp, rather glad I decided to upgrade it to 24v and had ordered the required parts last week - after the bed had heated and the nozzle was heating for a print, the 12v PS died with a few pops and a whiff of 'magic smoke'. Didn't think it had it in it and it was getting a 'tad' warm on some longer prints. Oh well lol. I wonder if they put the wrong one in the kit? The bed heater was an upgrade anby Cougar281 - Prusa i3 and variants
Since it's printing now and has been for about three hours, the temp of hotend 1 (which is not being used or heated right now) is a bit off, but I believe the typical starting temps are in the 20C range, give or take a degree or two. I'll double check in the morning when everything has cooled off and stabilized. I did read about 'Bang-bang' vs PID mode, and I believe it's set to 'bang-bang' modeby Cougar281 - Firmware - Marlin
Here's the Configuration.h that's loaded in now - To allow me to turn on the bed heater and actually let it heat (Takes longer for the actual bed to get hot than the temp indicated on the display and in OctoPrint shows), I've temporarily disabled the bed thermal protection.by Cougar281 - Firmware - Marlin
Had a strange one this evening - I set the bed to heat up to 80C and after a little bit, set the hot end to heat up to 235C, and after a fairly short amount of time, I got a 'Thermal Runaway' message, but the OctoPrint graph didn't show anything remotely out of the ordinary. While an alert/shutdown to a thermal runaway is nice, this was clearly a false positive - is there something I might have tby Cougar281 - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteThereaper why cant you get a higher amp 12v p/s to cope with the heat bed instead of changing everything to 24v!! That doesn't help the fact that the current associated with the 12v setup is harsher on the components of the controller (generates more heat) and with this controller in particular, from what I've read, is responsible for melting and cooking things (The wire supplied connectedby Cougar281 - Prusa i3 and variants
Yes, in terms of Watts, 12v & 24v use the same power, but due to the increased voltage, the current is lower, thus it's easier on the components (less heat for the high draw circuits except where you want the heat). I ordered a PSU that is 24v/20A/480W, which is twice what the 12v/20A/240W one that came with the kit is rated at. The 12v definitely struggles when the heater turns on - there'sby Cougar281 - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks got the catch on the max Z height - that was a typo. Was supposed to be 235. Yes, 'REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER' was the correct one. After wading through again, I discovered the multiple controllers and then that I had the wrong 'RepRap' one selected, so I got that working. Then I decided to adjust the Z probe to where the nozzle was just touching the tape. After using sby Cougar281 - Firmware - Marlin
I would like to upgrade my printer from 12v to 24v, as the 12v power supply pretty much struggles when the bed heater is used, even the 14Ga feed cable I used gets a bit warm, and from what I've read, due to the decreased current, 24v is better for the controller. I know the bed can be set up either way, I would just need to change it from the 12v wiring to 24v. The fan, which runs all the time aby Cougar281 - Prusa i3 and variants
Just a quick update - I finally got somewhere. After digging around, I realized the reason it was complaining about the temp sensors was because I hadn't configured sensor 1 so it was still set to '0'. Changed that and it got happier. I then moved all the settings I could find over. I tried initially using Winmerge, which is a great program for this kind of task, as long as the two files are reasby Cougar281 - Firmware - Marlin
Tried changing it to '14_EFB' and still getting the compile errors. Looked further up the error and this is what it's complaining about: SanityCheck.h:1065: error: #error "TEMP_SENSOR_2 shouldn't be set with only 2 HOTENDS." #error "TEMP_SENSOR_2 shouldn't be set with only 2 HOTENDS." If I extract the zip file and try to compile it without changing anything, it compiles fine. If I changby Cougar281 - Firmware - Marlin
I'm open to any tips/tricks/suggestions anyone has to offer - my first hurdle is with compiling though. Initially, I compiled the latest version of 1.0 with all the settings from the configuration.h that were different in the firmware file provided to me by Creatbottech, and it compiled fine and loaded, but... it didn't work. Bonehead me, I neglected to change the '#define MOTHERBOARD' line fromby Cougar281 - Firmware - Marlin
Well, while haven't printed a whole lot, mostly testing with small things like 1cm calibration cubes and such, and with the PETG, the prints have been coming out pretty good. Take the knobs - slicer issues aside, the PETG one I'd say came out much better than the PLA ones - the layer quality seems much better. My problem has been adhesion for the first layer. Once it gets past that first layer orby Cougar281 - Prusa i3 and variants
So for what it's worth, I re-printed my first prints, but sliced with Cura 3.0, vs the 15.04.6 that it had been sliced with before. When I looked at the layers view (after the fact) in Cura 15.04.6, it was 'wonky'. The same view in 3.0 looked proper. Granted, I printed it this time with PETG vs the PLA in the initial prints, but I suspect that if I were to reprint with PLA but resliced with 3.0 vby Cougar281 - Prusa i3 and variants
I just got a 3d printer by Createbot, a Prusa i3 clone, that I have their firmware for (albeit it was broken as sent to me and I had to fix it to get back to square one), and it works, but I'm interested in trying out the 'real' Marlin 1.0 or 1.1 firmware - I can't imagine there aren't improvements since the 1.0.0 RC2 that is apparently running on my controller (this one, that is set up as Motherby Cougar281 - Firmware - Marlin
Thanks - that's helpful - I would have thought that if the homing was right, the printing would have been based off that, but guess I was wrong. I actually have an inductive Z probe and have gone back and forth between that and the NO/NC mechanical switch. The inductive probe is currently hooked up. Personally, I'm not wild about where it is, 70mm behind the nozzles, but it is what it is for now.by Cougar281 - Prusa i3 and variants
So here's what I've been getting so far with the prints. I did two prints of an object that turned out essentially identical, and similar in stature to how the below cubes turned out. They first items had a similar 'bell' at the bottom. The cubes printed nearly perfect once they got up past a handful if bottom layers, and in the cubes cases, they printed essentially perfect at the top. Where my fby Cougar281 - Prusa i3 and variants
I did some more tinkering and adjusting, adjusted the travel values in the firmware so that I was able to move the X end stop so that the nozzle would be at the end of the plate when it hit it, not way off the end, and it wouldn't try to travel to far in the other direction and jamb up. Did the same for Y & Z. After some more tinkering, I somehow managed to get a decent print. It started ofby Cougar281 - Prusa i3 and variants
I just got a CBot i3 clone and after the assembly, I'm running into issues in trying to get it up and printing. Their Tech support is challenging in that they are in China (of course) and I'm in central US, so getting with them is a challenge. After submitting a support case, it ended up with a sales manager who wanted my skype ID for their tech, but with the time differential, will be a challengby Cougar281 - Prusa i3 and variants