I linked a video of it happening. First time it happened was after returning to the top after a print (which otherwise was flawless) and went nuts to the point that the left brass nut came out of the x-idler bracket. After readjusting everything, I did 2 prints fine, and then this happened again, twice now. Strangely, it doesn't always happen, and seems to never happen when using Z-Move in Octoprvon Arakon - Mendel90
That's one of the things that are making me consider whether to go that route or not.. I'd have to replace all cables or get a crimping kit.von Arakon - Mendel90
I currently use a Mendel90 dibond, the original kit from nophead, pretty much stock setup with J-Head, Melzi board etc, only major difference is the spool holder.. Some printed parts (of the printer itself) are starting to crack, and it's fairly loud. However, it still prints pretty good. Is it worth it upgrading to a new board (i.e. SKR 1.4) and steppers? And how difficult and time consuming wouvon Arakon - Mendel90
4 top layers, infill is 100%. Thing is, it used to print near perfect top surfaces on the other print bed. The bottom was horrible, though, half torn up, wildy varying adhesion, etc. I seem to have thicker lines in between the flat ones, so I'm rather guessing it may be overextrusion, not under? I reduced the flow by 2% now and am testing again.von Arakon - Printing
As you can hopefully see in the attached images, the smaller areas and the TARDIS shape are smooth and not shiny. But large portions of the flat area around are shiny and oddly rough. The bed is as level as it can be, bottom layers are smooth and and fully adhered. I'm using Cura to slice (4.1.0), on a Mendel90 Dibond, 0.4mm nozzle. I'm printing on a sanded pertinax surface (similar to protobovon Arakon - Printing
To report back: It works now. I honestly have no idea why it didn't at first, the only explanation I have is that the first times I tried, when homing, the limit switch didn't trigger, which caused the Z-axis to refuse moving (this seems to be a safety setting in the firmware). After coming back home yesterday and doing some more adjustments, the printer now prints fine in Cura as well as Slic3r,von Arakon - Mendel90
I'll have to tell you the values when I am back home. The printer basically starts printing while the Z-axis is still all the way at the top. When I use Slic3r, instead, the extruder moves down to the bed and then starts printing. I even copied the start and end gcodes from Slic3r over, but it still happens. Edit #2: Okay, got it. The files both use positive Z values, but Cura uses G0, while Slvon Arakon - Mendel90
Moin. I was going to try Cura after a very long time (I usually use Slic3r). However, it seems that in Cura, the Z-Axis for the Mendel90 is inverted.. i.e. it will print at the top and at the end of the print, lower the extruder to the bed. I found absolutely no settings for this. Weirdly, Cura even has a preset for the Mendel90, but the values there are all wrong. It worked fine in a very, veryvon Arakon - Mendel90
Does anyone have any experience with using PETG for extruder gears? My ABS ones are starting to show some wear and I wonder if I should replace them with PETG ones or ABS again.von Arakon - General
Nunus und esun. Ich hatte kreuz und quer gemessen und immer einen relativ gleichmäßigen Durchmesser gehabt.. Wäre schon seltsam, wenn bei 3 Spulen völlig unabhängig exakt gleichzeitig der Durchmesser schwankt.von Arakon - Allgemeines
Ich drucke bereits nur mit 40mm/s und definitiv heiss genug. Wie gesagt, mit exakt diesen Settings lief es vorher. Es ist auch unabhängig vom Slicer. Übrigens, da ich es vergessen hatte: es handelt sich um einen originalen Mendel90. Den Multiplier setz ich heute abend aber mal testweise höher.von Arakon - Allgemeines
Ich hab seit einiger Zeit völlig zufällig verteilte Lücken zwischen den Layern. Die sind teils so groß, dass ich nen Fingernagel reindrücken kann. Sie sind nicht an der gleichen Stelle wenn ich den gleichen gcode 2x drucke, ich habe absolut gar nichts an den vorher funktionierenden Settings geändert. PLA in dem Fall, jeweils andere Marke. Drucker fördert ordentlich, keine Hänger oder durchrutschevon Arakon - Allgemeines
I tried several different filaments and brands, and all filament is stored in airtight containers with moisture-binding pellets. It worked flawlessly just some weeks ago in this exact setup. I also replaced the wades block completely, since mine had several cracks.. unfortunately, it also made no difference.von Arakon - Printing
Yes. Those gaps are too small to actually be on purpose too, and will appear in randomly different spots even if I print the same gcode twice.von Arakon - Printing
Tried that just now, didn't help. Still the same issue, and never at the same layer even with identical settings.von Arakon - Printing
Morning. I am suddenly getting random gaps between layers. I'm using a Mendel90, all original, and tried two different brands of PLA with the exact same issue. I'm printing at 195°, 60° bed temp. 0.3mm layer height, 50mm/s print speed, 40mm/s outside perimeter speed. This is happening at any infill amount. I just got out some older items I printed and they don't seem to have this issue. Any ideavon Arakon - Printing
Ich hab mal eine Spule 3mm blaues PLA von denen verdruckt, keine Probleme.von Arakon - Extruder, Hotends & verschiedene Materialien
It's definitely pure, I checked the contents. I'm guessing the residue actually comes from the ABS itself, as it's more pronounced where the actone turned into slurry. As for strengthening, it's mainly to avoid the layers from coming apart under stress and vibrations. Just an additional precaution.von Arakon - General
Morning. I recently tried using acetone for the first time, to strengthen a part. I don't have a large pot or bottle I could use for vapor treatment (besides, it has to remain mechanically accurate in some areas), so I brushed on acetone. This worked generally, as it merged the layers nicely, but it left a whitish residue all over the parts, that won't come off easily. I tried soap and water, morvon Arakon - General
I switch back and forth now. Slic3r has a tendency to fill small areas with single lines.. i.e. if I have a 1.5mm wide piece, slic3r will usually create 4 or 5 parallel lines that don't touch well and get no top layer, whereas cura will draw two lines and use infill and top layer for the space in between. On the other hand, slic3r creates great top layers and has little to no stringing, while cuvon Arakon - Printing
Your bottom/top thickness is way too low. That's basically just a single layer. Try setting it to 0.8 mm.von Arakon - Printing
Ich hab bisher drei Mal fliegenden Wechsel machen müssen, weil das Filament auf der Spule verknotet war.. kurz bevor das Filament komplett in den DD-Extruder gezogen wird hab ich das neue Ende auf das alte gedrückt und mit leichtem Druck gegengehalten, bis es eingezogen wurde. Ging ohne Probleme.von Arakon - Allgemeines
Seltsam nur, dass es wirklich ausschließlich im Vasenmodus passiert. Aber ich schau mir mal Repetier an, danke.von Arakon - Allgemeines
Nein, Timelapse hatte ich (eben zum entlasten) schon aus.von Arakon - Allgemeines
Ich benutze seit kurzem einen Raspberry B+ mit Octopi als Printserver. Jetzt ist es mehrfach passiert, dass er im Vasenmodus massiv verlangsamt und der Drucker teilweise nur einzelne Schritte macht und wieder pausiert. Das gleiche Teil wurde aber ein paar Stunden vorher schon Mal perfekt gedruckt. Drucke ich es dann von SD Karte, keine Probleme. Gleichzeitig wird aber das Terminal damit geflutet:von Arakon - Allgemeines
Derp.. I'm an idiot. I actually had nopheads' entry bookmarked for this very purpose, and then forgot about it. Thanks. Edit: Just set it up and it works just fine.von Arakon - General
I recently got a Raspberry Pi B+ and set it up as an octopi print server. However, one thing I'd love to see is a way to switch the ATX power supply on and off from it (it's getting powered by the 5V Standby line). Is there any means to do that? Running a Melzi board with Marlin.von Arakon - General
Such mal auf Ebay nach "Balancer Stecker". Dieser Typ wird häufig im Modellbau an Akkus verbaut.von Arakon - Schwarzes Brett
Gitarrensaiten. Billige Marken ab 99 cent, in zig Durchmessern.. und so lang wie nötig.von Arakon - Allgemeines
More info. What material, at what temperature, at what speed, etc.von Arakon - Printing