Update: Replikeo ist nun auch weg.von Ano - Schwarzes Brett
Update: Prusa i3 MK2 ist verkauft. Der Replikeo Drucker ist noch zu haben, für jetzt 70€. Funktion ist gegeben, Drucken kann er aber zur Zeit nicht, da das Bett nicht korrekt gelevelt ist. Elektronik, Extruder, Motoren usw. sind alle komplett funktionstüchtig.von Ano - Schwarzes Brett
Die Tage wieder was bestellt, super schnelle Lieferung und Rollen sind ordentlich eingeschweißt (wie die Male davor auch). Vielen Dank euch! So fühlt sich guter Service an!von Ano - Kommerzielle Angebote & Produktvorstellungen
Ich kann die Drucker natürlich auch verschicken (gegen Aufpreis der Versandkosten). So, hier noch ein Foto von meinem MK2. Wie gesagt, alles Originalteile, keine Ver(schlimm)besserung oder sonstiges. Ich biete außerdem einen i3 Rework von Replikeo an. Bei diesem habe ich einige Teile ausgetauscht. Alle Originalteile lege ich aber bei, kann also wieder auf Werkszustand umgebaut werden. Komplettvon Ano - Schwarzes Brett
Hallo zusammen, ich biete hier meinen original Prusa i3 MK2 Drucker. Funktioniert bisher einwandfrei. Ich komme nur leider beruflich nicht mehr dazu, ihn wirklich zu nutzen und habe mich deswegen jetzt entschlossen, ihn abzugeben. Der Drucker steht im Raum Stuttgart. Am besten wäre eine Abholung, dann kann ich ihn auch gerne mal kurz anschmeißen, damit ihr seht, das alles funktioniert wie es solvon Ano - Schwarzes Brett
Hello everyone, did some of you create or find some cool Star wars bust models yet? I'm searching for the "501st Legion: Vader's Fist Clone Trooper 1:1 Scale Bust" I would really like to print something like this but lack the skills to model it myself. I got a Prusa i3 and will get a MK2 and would like to print it in as few parts as possible and in real size 1:1.von Ano - Object repositories
=( I moved to a new apartment not long ago and the first new prints after moving the printer are quite horrible... I seem unable to pinpoint the root cause and would appreciate every hint you have. At first I thought my nozzle was too far from the bed, then I thougt it is not far enough from the bed. This print seems to show neither of both, as some places are quite good and others seem problemvon Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
Is there anyone, that could already try out the prusa i3 update kit (http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printer-parts/106-original-prusa-i3-plus-to-mk2-upgrade-kit.html) with the printer from replikeo, yet? They implement some really good changes and the pricing seems quite reasonable (as also the E3D is included in the upgrade kit!).von Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
Hey guys, I mounted my bed on the springs, too. Problem is: Without them, you will get a hard time to level the bed. Additionally: If the nozzle touches the bed, it won't do heavy damage, as the springs will retract before some other mechanics break. For the motors: Do they move normally, if you only increment 1mm? Is there any unwanted noise? Normally it's either the motor current or the feevon Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
I think this could be the current limit. The more current the motor gets, the more it should "lock". You can try to adjust the current to see, if there is any effect.von Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebaconator I cannot get the Z-Axis to move at all. Whenever I try to home it or move it it simply makes a high pitched squeal. I have tried switching motors, stepper drivers, and adjusting the pots. Please Help!! You should try adjusting the feedrates. I will post my config here, but I STRONGLY advise you to not just copy and paste everything. Look at the values and try them out one by one,von Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotericcardo0996 Please Help Me YouTube Ok, that helps to see what the actual problem is, but you still didn't say: Did you try the thing tomleeds suggested?von Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteowaisshafHow do i achieve cold extrusion, i tightened the screws on my extruder and still no luck What is the problem here? Is the motor turning but no filament is pushed out? Tighten the screws, if that doesn't work, loosen it a bit again. QuoteowaisshafI also varied the potentiometer for the Y axis motor and it either whines or it skips steps with a lot of resisting noises. Normally withvon Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi owaisshaf, okay, so three new challenges: 1) If your extruder doesn't extrude, try to test only the extruder itself (without the heating nozzle), first. Put your filament in and extrude via proterface for example. The torque shouldn't be a problem, if you are using the wade geared extruder. So try to tighten the extruder screws, to get more force on the filament. Normally you should see somevon Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
Hey, no problem =) You probably didn't see the shipping costs on replikeo, do you? For me there amounted to over 120€ (to germany). Still, the replikeo pack is a nice package of all you need. Tip: Buy the LCD, too. Printing from SD card is really helpfull!von Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteowaisshaf 1.I cant seem to get my nylon stop nut all the way to the washer/bearing in my extruder assembly. The Hobbed bolt isn't threaded all the way and the nut stops at the thread. 2. I'm using m3x14 mm screws for my heated bed mount. Its a little too long, is that okay? I've shown both possible variations in the image. Can i apply either one or none? 3. Lastly my X axis smooth rodsvon Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
No. I don't think so. The handle will definitely need a support, otherwise you will be printing in mid air, which seems to be nearly impossible (some crazy printers with highly developed cooling exluded), if you have a filament based printer. Could be quite possible with other printer forms.von Ano - Reprappers
Nice one! For dual nozzels, you just need to get it leveled. Otherwise one will always ram into the printed part. Just meaning: There is no software solution to it. You could try to add a thin ring between the nozzle and the mount of the one, that's a bit higher than the other one, to get them leveled. And btw, try to print downwards. To the side or upwards isn't working well... or just turnvon Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
Well, that's kind of a combination of overhang and bridging. I didn't find a solution so far, my printed holes (vertical ones) look the same. /edit: Oh and please try to use the edit function instead of posting multiple times in a row, otherwise we start answering your questions just to find out that one post further you already found a solution to the problem =)von Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
@Giselberd: Welcome =) Did you level your bed? Could be the nozzle being too close to the bed at some point. You could check, if the filament extruder works properly and is well adjusted: Make a mark on the filament and extrude 5cm for example, then look if you really extruded 5cm. @Qdeathstar: Great! You could have a look at the guides (see my signature) for some advice. I think you can try tovon Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
Hey, well, the auto-leveling doesn't actually level the bed, but the nozzle. If the bed is higher on one side for example, the nozzle will print higher on that side, it'll follow the bed's level.... This video pretty much shows what I mean: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8eqSQNAyro When you level it manually, you actually change the bed level to get it horizontally, the auto-level changes the nvon Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
Well, I am using the carbon fiber plate quite successfully. ABS is kind of crappy to print, but with some hairspray I manage to get it done, too. And for the auto-leveling: Depends on your build (not the modell itself, but the assembling and how thight the screws are and so on) I think I got lucky, mine works with manual leveling so far and I just need to adjust it about every forth or fitht privon Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
Well, ok. Then it was a hardware problem. Do you use the same marlin version (incl. configuration.h) that you used on the other board? There seems to be some quality problems with china versions of the RAMPS. Where did you buy yours? You could try to use the old motor drivers and put them into the new RAMPS.von Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
Did you try out other options than "60"? It depends on which thermistor you use (apparently even the same kit sometimes uses different ones). By saying: QuoteGooglynz[...] then temperature readings are zero.[...] You mean the value that Repetier shows? Or the one on the display attached to the Ramps (if you have one)? Other than that, I think I have no other hint for you. If the thermistor workvon Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
Did you check which option for the thermistors needs to be activated for your thermistor? For me it was number 60 (at least it works quite well with this option) // 60 is 100k Maker's Tool Works Kapton Bed Thermistor beta=3950 #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 60 //Ano #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 60 //Ano It's in the marlin file "configuration.h".von Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
Did you check if 230 degrees are "real"? Or is it just the electronics showing that value. Try to check with another thermometer. My idler sits on a slight angle, too. Perhaps you should try to find a solution without the nozzle installed. Just check the extruder itself. Is your hobbed bolt working correctly?von Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
Hey LittleMike, never give up! ^^ Did you check the temperature? Perhaps the thermistor isn't working properly. A too low temperature could be the problem. If that's not the case, try to tighten up the nozzle while being heated to 230°C. Perhaps there is a little gap that's blocking the filament to flow. Other than that: Try not to turn the tensioners in too much, otherwise it could also have avon Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
@repramon: There are some possible connectors. The extruder fan marked on the posted pic is the always on option. It's directly connected to the power supply. Normally that's the "safest" option, cause you never overheat your extruder, because the fan is always active. Others try to connect it to the D9 connector, which is controllable by the firmware, aka activating and deactivating the fan righvon Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi Chicky, nice video. As Blue Ice said, really makes it easier to see the problem. I think the important part of the configuration is the #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 1, 25} line. If the feedrates are to high, the motor will not turn or turn incorrectely. I think your problem could be a combination of these values not being properly adjusted (aka too high) and the motors novon Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetomleeds... Thanks for the info. Well, I tried Bowden (see some of the last pages), but wasn't able to reduce the oozing to an acceptable state. So I went back to the standard direct wade extruder. Quotelurch68b Confused has been my middle name when it comes to this thing. I haven had any time to work on it since my last post. I did talk to some one at work here and he mentions making uservon Ano - Prusa i3 and variants