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Printing issues ...
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Well, clones is a polite term to call them. Reifnyderb puts out awesome hotends, and these things that pop up from time to time are nothing more than junk. Just my opinion.
by
lukan
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Reprappers
QuoteFeign
Thanks RegB... Man, that was a great tutorial, but it looks like modelling mechanical things in Blender is like trying to make slide presentations in Photoshop.
Basically, it reinforced my decision to stick with 123D Design for the mechanical stuff. I also have Designspark Mechanical and Sketchup, but haven't used either of them at all. How do they compare to 123D Design? (I don't
by
lukan
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3D Design tools
There is also the Designspark Mechanical software which is pretty decent. I just started to mess with it this past week.
by
lukan
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3D Design tools
You might want to try running 100 mm of the PLA through the hotend *at* ABS temps to help clear any ABS out of your hotend. It could be that there is some still in there that hasn't gotten all the way out, I had this happen to me when I switched from playing with a short piece of nylon back to PLA.
by
lukan
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Printing
CptanPanic: Just remember that your plastics may *not* be with the shipment.
brucehvn: Glad to hear you are up and running... A very good feeling isn't it!
by
lukan
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Reprappers
Eqpirate07: I am at a loss. It has to be something that you recently changed as six days ago you had a homing video posted.
It may be too late for this, but every time that I have a completely working, or as in the beginning a working up to that point, version of the firmware, I make a complete directory backup so that I have that point set and can revert back to it if something goes wrong.
by
lukan
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Printing
usarmyaircav: I think they have finally realized that the Little Brass is more trouble than it is worth, and that a lot of people simply buy another hotend regardless. I have an E3D and a J-Head MK V-BV that I use, never once touching the Little Brass other than taking some thermals on it.
Istale:Who me... Be helpful...? Curses. I need to work on my angst more!
ciutateivissa: Have you go
by
lukan
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Reprappers
I am the odd man out. I use 3ds Max. I would use blender, but I have knowledge of 3ds Max and therefore feel comfortable with the GUI and such. If I need to do any planning, it is wither paper, or AutoCAD.
I have been working on learning OpenSCAD, but I dislike the feel of being back in the 80's learning computer graphics programming.
by
lukan
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3D Design tools
I stumbled upon this item . Perhaps it will help? I don't have dual extruders setup yet, but I do plan on it in the future.
by
lukan
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Printing
Istale, I see that we are of kindred spirits
I am glad to see other people who have bought from DIYTechShop getting their printers up and running I have the i3x, and have been having a decent time learning its quirks. I have had nothing but good prints as long as my first layer sticks, and I think that is due to the way that DIYTechShop does the bed assembly. Just something to keep an eye
by
lukan
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Reprappers
Hey moviedemon, Quick question about your Wade's. Is it like this one, where there are no side holes at the hotend's mounting hole? {The linked Thingiverse set} Or does it by chance have the screw holes as in this one?
The main reason that I ask is that you will not need a plate if you have an extruder that is similar to the second Thingiverse link, and the opening is large enough to accept
by
lukan
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Reprappers
The jumpers get put onto the headers that are under each of your stepsticks. This will make your stepsticks perform at 1/16 microsteps.
If you look at this image:
You can see the black jumpers installed under where the stepsticks go.
Here is Prusa's Calculator which will help in getting your initial steps.
To give a quick help on your steppers, they are all going to be 1.8° steppers, and y
by
lukan
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Printing
Awesome! Now you can start working on Triffid's Guide for Calibration!!! Do the WHOLE thing mind you... If you go all the way through that and finish the Fine Tuning steps as well, you will be putting out some real quality prints.
Here are some prints to help you out:
The main calibration cube:
Calibration Box
Triffid's guide has the 5mm cube pyramid in there which is useful after getting y
by
lukan
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Printing
Well, remember that we disabled your MIN endstops. You would have to go in and comment that back out, then there is a small amount of work to get the un-used endstops setup properly, and you will have to follow Shane's advice and use jumpers on the unused header pins. I will be unable to help much after that as I have not gone that route and wanted the firmware to be as simple as possible to se
by
lukan
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Printing
Well, as I stated above... The inversion of the endstop will switch it from NC to NO and vice-versa.
Also, the inversion of either endstop or stepper will only affect the endstop or the stepper.
When the stepper was inverted, the only thing that would affect the endstop is the :
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
#define X_HOME_DIR 1
I guess the thing to remember her
by
lukan
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Printing
That is normally true Shane, except that if you setup #define DISABLE_MIN_ENDSTOPS then you do not need to worry about jumpers. This command turns those pins off completely.
by
lukan
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Printing
No worries at all Jake. Being one of the relatively new nubs to printing I understand the feeling.
#define INVERT_X_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
When you try to move your X, does it go in the expected direction? I noticed that your definition for travel direction is different than the other two. I didn't think anything about it until now since you are still h
by
lukan
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Printing
Yeah, that is way long on the forums. Would you mind wrapping that into either Pastebin Or Hastebin? I actually prefer Hastebin as it is a bit quicker on response time and looks a fair sight better at times.
I missed this before, and I apologize for it. Just above your endstop section:
// False == Normally Closed
// True == Normally Open
Then change out your MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING to false.
by
lukan
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Printing
Jake, It is ok. If your steppers are moving the wrong way, Just invert them.
#define INVERT_X_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
You said that the Z axis is going the wrong way correct? The change would look li
by
lukan
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Printing
Are you using the Marlin that came with the kit, or did you download a fresh copy from GIThub?
I suggest getting the fresh code instead of messing with DIYTechShop's modified version. For example, in the fresh copy I have:
// The pullups are needed if you directly connect a mechanical endswitch between the signal and ground pins.
const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to in
by
lukan
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Printing
For the endstops, you will want to make your Z-endstop a MAX endstop then so that you can disable the MIN side then. Also move them up one spot. Look at this diagram It shows X- , Y-, and Z-. It looks like that is where you are currently plugged into. Move them all, in the image linked, to the right by one spot and this becomes X+ , Y+ , Z+.
As long as you are keeping your wires all the sam
by
lukan
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Printing
dudesom, Ralph.Hilton is more on target I believe. If you look at this image, you can see the same thing in my filament duck, you can see the same stringing. This was caused by filament leaking out of the top of my heat block and dripping back down into the feed to be deposited within the print. I have also found that if the bottom of the heat block gets any filament on it, from a part not sti
by
lukan
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Printing
Hey Jake. When you wired your steppers, did you take a multimeter and verify what coil you were on? The steppers that I received from DIYTechShop were wired completely backwards from a standard wiring used by a bigger name manufacturer. Judging by the picture of the i3x, your steppers look as meek as mine. I would verify that they are wired correctly.
The below is intended if you have not
by
lukan
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Printing
Another note, one that I found with my extruder that I have since left behind, is check that your hotend isn't being moved in the holder. The extruder that I came with my i3 kit did not have any means of securing the hotend to the extruder, other than a snug fit. This caused me a lot of grief when I would print and would have up to 4 Y-Axis shifts. I believe that jbernardis is correct, but it
by
lukan
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Printing
I can absolutely confirm the off-registration printing within the first 20 layers. I went back and watched a recording of the print and sure enough, there was one part that lifted off of the bed and went with the hotend only to land on the main part of the largest structure.
For the second issue, I think it is moisture, or other liquid contaminant, inside of the filament. I started another pri
by
lukan
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Printing
Yesterday I did a few prints while working, then I set one up for overnight printing. The prints during the day turned out pretty good, while the overnight print has issues. I am hoping to increase my knowledge of printing issues, and I am looking for confirmation that what I suspect is wrong is either correct or incorrect. It is a long read with some decent pictures, and I thank anyone who ta
by
lukan
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Printing