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Printing issues ...
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When printing something like box and cube, my outer diameter is correct like i design it but when i put hole in middle to fit 608z bearing the inner diameter for the hole for the bearing is incorrect. Is there something i need to adjust or its normal because of abs shrinking? i want to print plastic parts for mpcnc and afraid it will not fit. Sorry for my english
by
wendychai80
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Printing
Quoteeddygale
I'm an old dummy & can't type to good. just one finger at a time.
where the hell are configuration files found?
You'll find configuration H file inside marlin folder, you need to download the marlin firmware first if you didnt have it
by
wendychai80
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RAMPS Electronics
Thanks for replying this thread and tell me what im doing wrong and after rewiring my heat bed is heating up now
Thank you very much
by
wendychai80
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General
Wow nice thank you for the details, can i connect it to connection that from MAIN that i use to connect the PSU that mark as ( L N ) (G) on my 12v PSU not the ( COM COM +V +V)
My father is an electrician and i can ask him to help me but the problem is i dont know how to explain to him what im trying to do and i know that 230v ac can kill someone that why i need to confirm first with someone
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wendychai80
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General
Yup, if you mean the power supply that i used to power my printer.
i follow online guide https://raw.githubusercontent.com/3DModularSystems/Scalar/master/Documentation/Photos/Heatbed_ScalarM/SSR_WiringSchematic.png
am i doing it wrong?
by
wendychai80
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General
Im using silicone heating pad heater 220V 200W because i mistakely order it last time, after that i learned that i can use SSR to power up my heatbed
Picture is how i wiring my ssr with my heatbed
http://imgur.com/SyP0yRZ
After i confirm all the wiring is done properly, i tried to heated up my heatbed but it wont heatup but the red light on the SSR is on.
The SSR im using is 3-32V DC TO 24-380
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wendychai80
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General
Quotedc42
Quotewendychai80
Quotedc42
Although you can probably use that SSR, I suggest one that is more appropriate to the less than 1A current that the heater will draw. Larger SSRs have greater leakage current and a higher minimum load current needed to work correctly. I suggest you look for SSR-10DA or possibly SSR-25DA. These are widely available on eBay.
Thanks, i will look for it, do i nee
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wendychai80
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Reprappers
Quotedc42
Although you can probably use that SSR, I suggest one that is more appropriate to the less than 1A current that the heater will draw. Larger SSRs have greater leakage current and a higher minimum load current needed to work correctly. I suggest you look for SSR-10DA or possibly SSR-25DA. These are widely available on eBay.
Thanks, i will look for it, do i need heatsink also for the SSR
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wendychai80
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Reprappers
Thank you, i will try find SSR here tomorrow
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wendychai80
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Reprappers
Aliexpress and i will bring the picture for finding something similar on my local shop here not online store
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wendychai80
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Reprappers
Wow, sorry i didnt get notification that my thread got reply. Can i use this SSR "Solid State Relay SSR 40A with Protective Flag SSR-40DA 40A DC control AC"
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wendychai80
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Reprappers
I got friend that work as electrician and my father can help me aswell, and i also like to learn something new
My country use 240 volts(malaysia), which SSR do u recommended and do you have any link on how to setup SSR with ramps
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wendychai80
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Reprappers
i mistake order 220V 200W silicone heatbed for my new build and already received it, can i use it with ramps or i need order new 1. i only have 12v power supply
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wendychai80
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Reprappers
My build so far https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LHsid9rgR4o still waiting for other parts to come before i can start assemble all the frame together
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wendychai80
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CoreXY Machines
Quotefriarfish
Have you thought about Kisslicer?
Slic3r is a big step in complexity plus, personal opinion, I never found the
removeable rafts very good.
Oh, slic3r is slow. A 3 hour print from kisslicer will be around 5 hours from
slic3r.
Thanks you for the suggestion, i already try kisslicer before this i think 2years ago when i still new to 3d printing maybe it's time to try kisslicer once a
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wendychai80
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Printing
QuoteMontiey
That all really depends on slicer settings. If it happens in different spots per different model, then you don't have to worry about mechanical problems. Try using largly different I Infill percentages, and / or different layer heights. If changing lots of settings doesn't help, try a different slicer.
thank you, i think this one is 15% infill slice with cura with 0.2 layer height, i
by
wendychai80
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Printing
How can i fix it?
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wendychai80
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Printing
it only happened on that area.
by
wendychai80
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Printing
Thanks, im still waiting all my parts arrived before start building mine
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wendychai80
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CoreXY Machines
Quotegforce1
Quote3D_Printer_Guy
gforce1,
Nice job.
How did you build the frame? Did you tap the ends or use L shaped brackets?
Are you happy with your choice?
Thanks.
I tapped the ends like this. I am very happy with it. It is very sollid.
btw. the printer in the picture in the previous post has not been build yet.
This one is:
Can i know the dimension aluminum profile that you use for t
by
wendychai80
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CoreXY Machines
Quotegforce1
Quotewendychai80
Quotegforce1
It is all printed with ABS. No modifications were made after the completion.
I am now designing a new one with a 300x300 heatbed and 300 mm in the z-direction, two(or three)belt driven leadscrews, linear guides,Dual extruder(chimera).Outher dimensions will be 500x500x500 mm.
Nice, any thread that i can follow your build?
preview:
The 2 motor above the
by
wendychai80
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CoreXY Machines
oh ok, i already start the printing the files can't wait for all the parts to come
by
wendychai80
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CoreXY Machines
Quotegforce1
It is all printed with ABS. No modifications were made after the completion.
I am now designing a new one with a 300x300 heatbed and 300 mm in the z-direction, two(or three)belt driven leadscrews, linear guides,Dual extruder(chimera).Outher dimensions will be 500x500x500 mm.
Nice, any thread that i can follow your build?
by
wendychai80
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CoreXY Machines
Quotegforce1
These are older pictures.The cabling is all done now.
Cool, blue look nice, do you use pla or abs for all the printed parts? any modification after complete the build?
by
wendychai80
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CoreXY Machines
Any picture or video
Right now i'm still browsing for nema 17
by
wendychai80
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CoreXY Machines
Quotegforce1
I have mounted the min-endstop for the x-axis on the leftside off the x-carrigae.
The y-min endstop is mounted on the front on the left hand side y-smooth-rod.
Home position is on the front left off the heatbed.
Thanks for reply, im not yet start printing all the files yet and just starting ordering some parts yesterday.
I really like this design cause all the parts is inside the fr
by
wendychai80
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CoreXY Machines
Quotejand
Quotegforce1
The alu profiles are 20x20 mm.
The total dimension of the cube is 400x400x400 mm
This is correct, but it means the horizontal profiles are 360 mm long and the vertical 400 mm
Maybe it is a good idea to have a look at the assembly file: RepRap-XY.step in the step folder in github:
Hi
where do you put endstop for x and y axis?
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wendychai80
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CoreXY Machines
hai, im still using the resistor setting so i can't help you. maybe if you open new thread there someone will reply and help you there
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wendychai80
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Reprappers
Quotegustavogoulart
Hello! Everything working here, the problem (aside the error I made with the wires) was the firmware. I was using one branch, and the branch has some bug that causes this problem. Solved now here with the stable firmware.
Branch? is it in marlin firmware? lol i didnt know what that is. nevermind then, nice to hear everything work fine for you now
by
wendychai80
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Reprappers
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Pages: 123