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Printing issues ...
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Yes. At the moment I won't bother to take it apart and investigate. Just happy I have it working on the free location.
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
Quoteimqqmi
What you call motor driver is also known as a step stick. You can move them to other locations, or replace them if they fail.
Ok, thanks for explaining. Well my conclusion is that my step stick and motor is ok. I just moved the step stick to the free location on RAMPS board. So problem was that old location on RAMPS board is failing. Seems like that free location is pre programmed f
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
Quoteimqqmi
Or just swap the step sticks...
I don't understand step sticks. Can you clarify.
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
I figured it out eventually.
Found my motherboard type in Configuration.h (33)
Then in pins.h I located the pins def for my motherboard.
So I just exchanged the pin numbers for extruder 1 and 2 there
#define E0_STEP_PIN 36
#define E0_DIR_PIN 34
#define E0_ENABLE_PIN 30
#define E1_STEP_PIN 26
#define E1_DIR_PIN 28
#define E1_ENABLE_P
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
My extruder went total dead after 4 years of service. After troubeshooting I defined that the motor driver on board is bad. So I need to use my left over free motor drive.
How can I make my Prusa use this free motor drive instead of my default one, once I move connector and motor chip.
Like you can see in attached file I want to move from red arrow location to black arrow location.
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
I found a solution for my problem. Instead of edit end code in Cura GUI I edit file
C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 3.2\resources\definitions\prusa_i3_xl.def.json
It is entry "machine_end_gcode":, "default_value":
that is used as end code at all times. Regardless of what you edit in the Cura GUI
Seem like the B word to me .....
Start code is working to edit in GUI
by
sidhabo
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Printing
QuoteMCcarman
Just looking for issues.
Your in relative positioning - maybee you can't home in relative.
You can always load the Gcode in a text editor (notepad etc) and scroll to the end and check the actual code in the file.
Thanks for feedback.
I'm pretty sure my problem is the endcode is not active at all:
a) removing the home commands does not prevent home being executed
b) I did try G1 X
by
sidhabo
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Printing
Quoteo_lampe
It's not Curas fault, but Marlins. It only reads G28 and ignores whats written behind. I'm sure, it just homed the printer twice, always beginning with X-axis.
Now I totally deleted all G28 code in Dura machine setup end code. Still doing it.
So it's like some default code is active. Disregarding all I do in machine setup end code.
Seem to be same code I hade in Dura 15.04.6 versi
by
sidhabo
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Printing
Just confirmed by commenting out the X home command in end code
Still doing the X home
Seems like any change I do in end code have no effect at all in this 3.2.1 Cura version .....
I use Gcode flavor Marlin in printer setup. Could that be an issue.
Not sure if Marlin (Volumetric) or RepRap flavor might be a better choice.
by
sidhabo
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Printing
Quoteo_lampe
Isn't it G28 Y, not Y0?
Why do you home the printer and not just send G1 Y0 F###?
This end code was working for my previous Cura version 15.04.6 (upgraded to 3.2.1 ).
Think it was like a default one there. I will try alternate as you suggested.
Just that I have a feeling what I change is not having any effect at all .....
If I slice to file it all look good though. What I alter wil
by
sidhabo
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Printing
You can check your thermistor with ohm meter. Should be around 100 kOhm.
Also you can swap connection with heated bed thermistor, if you have that, to see if it will differ.
by
sidhabo
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Printing
There is an adjustment procedure for the stepper motors.
By turning on the micro potentiometers on the board.
One for each motor. Try that.
by
sidhabo
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Printing
I want to control in what order X and Y zero home is done in the end code.
First I had
G28 X0 Y0;
So I changed to what is below thinking I would force Y0 home happen before X0 home.
It still do X0 home first. So I tried revers in end code doing G28 X0 first then G28 Y0 on next row.
No change .....
Seem like the changes I do have no effect.
Just to be sure I exit from Cura after doing changes and
by
sidhabo
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Printing
Thanks for info. I found link below very useful .
Link
Also had me finally upgrade my Cura to latest version.
Lot of new good stuff there
by
sidhabo
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Printing
I have these values in my Configuration.h
Are they decent ? I find others that have much higher values ....
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,79.59,4157,670} // default steps per unit for Ultimaker
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {400, 400, 2, 45} // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {450,450,100,10000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves.
by
sidhabo
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Printing
The print time estimate I have in Cura 15.04.6 is always less than actual print time.
Typically actual print time is +20%
Had this all time even after first time calibrating parameters.
Any way to easy calibrate this ?
Any code to help out ?
Thanks
by
sidhabo
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Printing
QuoteEvan
Quotethe_digital_dentist
I'm pretty sure it was the bed under the glass that was bent. I'll bet the bed has 4 leveling screws...
I had this structure once, really sucks. Broke my heated bed support. Now i have 3 leveling screws in a equally sided triangular structure and no problems. Also solved the problems that i had to level each print. These days i rarely level my bed.
Ok thanks,
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
Well that last print wasn't good after all. Just that it printed until end. But one side had too bad warping.
Like the wall ended up 10 mm high, on warp side, instead of 12 .
So I had to continue trouble shoot. I will share some learning below
Yes the heated bed were a little level off. So after adjusting I have even warping all way around and the object cut loose before print end.
Setting I d
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
Ignore please ..... don't know how to delete my comment ...
Is it possible ?
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist
I'm pretty sure it was the bed under the glass that was bent. I'll bet the bed has 4 leveling screws...
Yes, I agree. Have to recheck glass leveling again.
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
Problem sorted. I did one other change just before testing the transparent filament.
My glass on heated bed cracked so I changed it.
To a totally exact same Prusa spare part.
So I couldn't really see that would cause any problem.
Anyway when I had a close look at the new glass bed I found it was like half a millimeter off the heated bed surface in one corner.
The new glass was just not exact fl
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
Ok here we go again. I got the problem after change of Vendor / filament. Focus on that as the problem.
Which may times is a good idea ... what has last changed since all was good ?
Just to get back to base I tried my normal setup and filament.
Still had the problem
So I'm back to zero. Something else is causing the problem. Nothing to do with change of filament ....
Same kind of problem for
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
Quoteetfrench
Is your printer enclosed?
Nope, normally not. Not in conjunction to this problem. I do have a housing that I can use if needed. I use it typically for printing that is thin walled ( 2-5 mm ) and pretty high like 10-15 cm
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
QuoteFloyd
That sounds too cold for ABS. I print my ABS at 240c mainly. Heck even my PLA I run at 214c
I also always do 240 for ABS
Just that this one last ABS I bought is speced to do 200 - 230 C ...
Hm, maybe it's a wrong spec. I'll try 240 C and see what happens
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist
Heat and low speed usually do the job, but don't leave it too hot for the remaining layers or you'll have elephant footing.
Ok, good info. I just had a go doing 215 C . Same fail ....
I'll try start with 230 and go maybe 205 after 2-3 layers
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist
I set the bed for 105C for the first layer and drops to 90C for remaining layers. The printer has a cast aluminum bed with a 1.5 mm layer of PEI on the surface. First layer print speed is usually 25-30 mm/sec. The hot-end is usually set to 240C for the first layer and 230 or 235 for remaining layers.
Ok, so basically little more hot on the first layer will improve adhe
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
If it get stuck like in seconds it can be due to your Z zero height for first layer is too near print bed.
Thus i get too hard for extruder to pump out plastic.
The feeder will cut a dent on filament and after that no motion.
Even when you try to help feed by hand it's not at all possible to get the plastics out
Ha det gött
Bosse
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
I've been printing a long time using same vendor ABS. Spec 220-260 degrees print temp.
Using print temp 240 C. Having no problems.
Now I tried out a new vendor ABS with spec 200-230 degrees C
Clear transparent 3mm
I get problem with adhension. First llike 30 layers look just fine. It's just that after 1 hour, of my total 2 hour print time, the object cut loose from heated bed ... ruined printout.
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
Quoteslippyr4
I have both PETG and ABS in clear. Results are pretty similar. Far from clear- you wouldn't be able to see through them. But also not opaque, so light shines through and makes them glow, much more so that with white.
PETG is easier to print. You need to get your retraction just right, because it's stringy, but you can use a part cooling fan and thus it's much easier to do the more
by
sidhabo
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Reprappers
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