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Printing issues ...
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Thanks for all of the answers guys. I have been looking closely at some filled nylons, as the particular application will be under a reasonably heavy load. Any suggestions on suitable filled nylon brands. From my research carbon filled nylon materials have a negatively affected friction coefficient. Turning the parts may also be an option. They will need to be produced in batches of 50 so this ma
by
khannon3
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General
Hi guys,
In looking to recreate some roller wheels (for plastic on smooth painted metal contact) which were injection molded I'm Delrin (POM/Acatel). From the research I've done, Delrin isn't widely available or easy to print. Is anyone aware of a suitable 3D printing friendly material?
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khannon3
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General
Hi Guys,
I am using simplify 3D to print sequentially parts. Currently, my printer beeps before the print starts and after it finishes by using a custom starting script and ending script:
M115 U3.0.7 ; tell the printer latest firmware version available
G28 W ; home all without mesh bed level
G80 ; mesh bed levelling
M300 S2000 P5000 ; Play a Beep
G1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside printing area
G1
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khannon3
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General
Hi Guys,
I am currently setting up Slic3r PE for a customer and was wondering if there are some equivalent settings to the Gcode Z-offset in Slic3r or Prusa Control. It's been a number of years since I used Slic3r and I thought I remembered it being present.
The setting I am looking for moves the model in the z-direction and can be used to create a flat base on complicated models (see S3d z
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khannon3
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Slic3r
Over the past few months, we have been testing out a number of different belts on our 13 printers strong print farm.
We print a lot of white parts and over time we have found that black neoprene belts have been rubbing slightly and causing rubber to get into the print. We have tried white PU belts but we found that these stretch and become loose very easily and begin to affect print quality.
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khannon3
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General
Hi Guys,
I'm looking for resources for batch slicing multiple models into a single .gcode file through the command line.
The Idea would be that files would be placed in folders in groups of 4, they would be automatically imported into slic3r and setup to print sequentially based and finally the .gcode would be exported (all through the command line)
Is this possible? Thanks in advance!
Reg
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khannon3
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General
I'm have an fairly active hub on 3D hubs, (I appear at the top of the list in Ireland). An I can't see it being cost effective unless the infrastructure is there in an existing company that has 20+ printers which are running all off the time.
I picture Point farms over seas, with printers as far as the eye can see that can produce parts for a percentage over cost price. Am I dreaming?
Regards,
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khannon3
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General
Hi Dragon Fire,
I've been weighing up the cost for tooling. I've worked on 3D printed injection molds before and it really isn't suited to larger parts or anything over 20-100 units. The costs are still relatively high as material jet/poly jet printing is v. expensive.
Regards,
Kevin
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khannon3
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General
Hi Guys,
I'm looking to get some short run manufacturing done and after weighing up the numbers, I don't think it's worth my while buying more 3D printer and doing it myself. Ideally, I'm looking for an overseas 3D print farm that can produce around 500 parts for as little cost as possible $$$. I can't seem to find any onlien, but I'm sure they exist. Does anyone know of any companies doing thi
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khannon3
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General
Hi Dust,
Thanks for that. I was hoping for an easy transition. Maybe I should just upgrade my electronics. Can you suggest somewhere to get a cheap (possibly Chinese Rambo)? I wan't to keep this printer relevant without spending a great deal that could be used to buy a more up to date printer.
Kev
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khannon3
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Reprappers
I'm looking to update my outdated Prusa i3 firmware from a self-built machine I made 3 years ago. I was wondering if the official Prusa i3 plus firmware would be compatible with ramps? Thanks!
Regards,
Kevin
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khannon3
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Reprappers
I think a standard 200mm axis printer will be enough as I've been printing parts for this company for a while and I haven't had to print any thing outside of that envelope. I've been looking at the new Wanho duplicator i3 plus. It's a lot of machine for the money and even after buying 5 of them, there is a lot of meet left on the bone for a good machine for making PCBs. Do you know of any machine
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khannon3
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General
Lets take 10K as the maximum. A good figure would be around 5 !
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khannon3
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General
Hi Guys,
I'm joining a new company and there is talk of allocated a budget of around 10,000 euro for printers. We will be doing some in house manufacturing of some interior parts for some consumer electronics and I think 3-4 printer would be the right number. I myself have always had Rep raps, but for such an investment I am on the fence as to weather we should go with a of the shelf machine as
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khannon3
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General
I've been considering upgrading my standard zinc 5mm threaded rods for lead screws on my prusa i3. I've made quite a few upgrade over teh past few months and I feel my z-axis is holding me back. I assume it is merely printing new a new x axis, adding new couplers and changing steps per mm Does anyone have any experience with moving to lead screw?. Where to get one of necessary for a good price a
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khannon3
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General
After a lot of head scratching and some research on-line I solved the problem by uncommenting #define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS.
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khannon3
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General
I've had this problem before. Does it only move a few steps? Use M119 to check your end stops, if it says x is triggered that means you may have a bed endstop connection.
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khannon3
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General
Hi guys,
I've had my auto bed leveling running for a while now, but the grid has always been off. It probes 9 points but just repeats the first 3 then moves forward on the y axis, probes the same spot 3 times them carries out the last 3 correctly. Recently I've noticed that is is impacting on the print quality and I would appreciate it if someone could shed light on my situation. Its i3 with a b
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khannon3
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General
Hi RepRap Forum,
I've been on the search for maximised print quality over the past few weeks and I am considering changing to a Bowden set up. I have no desire to print flexible materials, so I feel a direct drive extruder is a bulky mass adding additional. The added speed benefits also point me towards a Bowden system. I already have a good deal invested in 1.75 mm filament, so I would be relu
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khannon3
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General
Hi J-max,
Thanks for replying. Good point! Will I need to make any adjusted to Marlin or do i just need to reconnect everything?
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khannon3
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General
Thanks for your reply. Its a 12v prusa i3 with a j-head and a mk heated bed. It all pretty standarderd. Should I be goign for the 12V 12.5A 150W option? Is that the best choice.
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khannon3
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General
Hi RepRap forum,
I moved stuff to my new house recently and left my power supply behind. I have a print job to do this week and I am udner pressure to find a local PSU. Is this PSU suitable for a Prusa i3 with a heated bed?
Thanks
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khannon3
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General
Sorry for the late reply Tazz
I'm just about to try this out, I've been away for a while
My new start end g code is
G28G X0 Y0
G29
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle
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khannon3
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General
Thanks for the quick reply taz. I was thinking I was missing something. So is it best to make the change I the host for some reason I thought it would be in the firmware. Will those changes also implement the abl compensation too ? Thanks
Kev
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khannon3
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General
Hi guys,
I've recently installed an auto bed leveling probe on my Prusa i3 the probe is working fine and home correctly and probe the given positions when I use the g28,29 commands. When I start a print the prob only probes th z position once and then starts to print. I assume im missing sonething here. Do i have to implement start g code in order to tell the printee to run abl and compensate fo
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khannon3
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General
Hi guys,
I am currently installing Auto bed levelling on my prusa i3 ramps 1.4. I've noticed that once I connect to the printer via usb the servo starts to buzz. It is quite similar to the noise when a stepper drivers potentiometer is not correctly calibrated. I have put a stop to my progress as I felt it may cause damage to the board/servo. The servo works but buzzes more intensely once trigge
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khannon3
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General
I've had the idler removed while running these test so I don't think its because of any resistance. Any other ideas?
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khannon3
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Printing
I've tried turning the driver down and up. The whine will increase slightly and the motor will make some slight vibration but there is no turning of the gears
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khannon3
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Printing
I had just recently installed a new replacement board and it ran fine for a few test and short prints. is it normal for the potentiometer to be adjusted in this case
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khannon3
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Printing
THansk you both of you for the replies. Could I ask what causes this kingrahl and is it normal for it to happen to motor and driver that were previously working fine
by
khannon3
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Printing
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