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Has anybody done a comparison of different infill percentages and patterns, and the tensile yield/ultimate yield/bending strength of the parts? I'm very curious as to how much of a quantitative difference for example a 50% to 100% infill would make in a structurally loaded part, as well as the fill pattern from say honeycomb to rectilinear. I'm sure this data is out there somewhere and I just can
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Jonny Five
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General
I got the Prusa i3 Rework kit, from Replikeo, for my entry into 3D printing. It's one of the best prices I've seen, and since it's the Rework version, it improves upon some of the Prusa i3 shortcomings. The quality has been perfect for me, and I've had no issues with any parts. Also great customer service, as they replaced one part for me instantly and free of charge. I've made plenty of upgrade,
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Jonny Five
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Reprappers
Quotepsneddon
QuoteBlue Ice
Awesome!
QuoteJoe2014
Just got a text from DHL. My kit shall arrive tomorrow! Just in time for the weekend. I'll probably post my thoughts during the build, possible some video logs. I'm excited! Hopefully nothing was damaged in shipping...
My kit arrived just a couple days ago, as you can see above. I'm through the first big step (here), and I haven't run into any
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Jonny Five
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Prusa i3 and variants
The fan fixed it! Thanks for the help and advice everyone, you're all very helpful.
by
Jonny Five
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Printing
Anybody have a good stl for a fan duct for prints? I'd like to print one and add it to my extruder assembly.
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Jonny Five
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBlue Ice
QuoteJonny Five
My relevant settings are as follows. I've slowed everything down quite a bit from the defaults, and seen very smooth printing with hardly reduced total times.
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,455}
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 2, 25} // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {2000,2000,10,1000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accele
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Jonny Five
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Prusa i3 and variants
My relevant settings are as follows. I've slowed everything down quite a bit from the defaults, and seen very smooth printing with hardly reduced total times.
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,455}
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 2, 25} // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {2000,2000,10,1000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves.
#define DEFAULT_
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Jonny Five
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Prusa i3 and variants
I'll definitely try using a fan, I appreciate the help. Your explanation makes logical sense as to why it would help. In thinking about it, it does explain why very small layers and those with solid infill exhibit this the worst. Not everybody's advice online is legitimate, and I've found it's usually prudent to ask for a reason and use some common sense before just trying what everyone says.
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Jonny Five
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Printing
See my above comment about the fan.
What would a fan accomplish? The only thing I can think of, is that it would cool solid infill and cause it to contract. Is this really that substantial a difference? Otherwise, it only seems helpful for bridges and overhangs which are printed without support, which I'm not struggling with (yet).
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Jonny Five
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Printing
Towards the end of the print where I knew the dragging issue was going to rear its head, I just pointed the fan directly at the print. I didn't notice any difference. I also printed that whole piece without a fan until that point, so I'm not sure what benefit a fan would offer me really?
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Jonny Five
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Printing
Here's a perhaps vital clue: it only seems to happen when the infill density is 1 (rectilinear pattern).
I mean, look at the attached near perfect prototype handle for a plane door I printed. I feel so close, but it's not quite perfect yet. For honeycomb fill and perimeters it looks great, but for the top of the narrow parts where it used solid infill it was obviously over depositing/dragging. I
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Jonny Five
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Printing
Thanks for the feedback so far.
I was under the impression that PLA did not require active cooling. I have one fan directed constantly at the hotend. The thought occurred to me that the plastic could be slightly expanding after being deposited, but after reading many other posts, I found that a lot of people print PLA without a fan with no issues. Is it really worth adding a print fan?
As far a
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Jonny Five
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Printing
Hey Blue Ice, any advice for nozzle dragging? I printed the 20mm cube almost perfectly, but the top layer shows minor dragging (see attached). When moving to the 50mm tower though, the nozzle really starts to push material to the edges as it gets higher. Any ideas? Pictures attached.
My only thoughts so far, and the settings should be correct, have been:
- The printer extruding more material tha
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Jonny Five
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Prusa i3 and variants
I am getting very minor nozzle dragging. It is noticeable in that at the edges of infill, it pushes a tiny wall of a minute amount of material into the perimeters, and it also creates small channels along the infill where the nozzle drags. This manifests itself in final prints as a slightly inaccurate perimeter wall with some small bulges sticking out, and in the final layer not being flat but ri
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Jonny Five
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Printing
I wouldn't raise your hotend to minimize the first layer thickness. You need it very close to the bed to lay down a solid first layer for adhesion - it should be smashed down a bit.
If you think you don't need an extra fat first layer, then you adjust this in slic3r. The default settings are to lay down a thicker layer, which I think is ideal. Anyway, look at print settings -> first layer hei
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Jonny Five
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Prusa i3 and variants
Get a piece of borosilicate glass to print on, it will be flat.
I'm currently still using the springs, but when I get auto-bed leveling sorted out, will be ditching the springs for spacers. This should firm it up slightly, and I won't need the springs anyway for leveling at that point.
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Jonny Five
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Prusa i3 and variants
So the equation for properly calculating the extruder default steps is:
e_steps_per_mm = (motor_steps_per_rev * driver_microstep) * (big_gear_teeth / small_gear_teeth) / (hob_effective_diameter * pi)
e_steps_per_mm = (200 * 16) * (43 / 10) / (7 * 3.14159) = 625.70681
However, it seems as 600 is actually the proper extruder default setting, both from the other config files I've seen online and fr
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Jonny Five
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Prusa i3 and variants
Your X setting is going to similarly be what you've discovered for the Y. If your homing directions are correct, then it's your +/- logic that needs to be changed.
The Z axis issue can be solved by 1) increasing the voltage on your stepper motor potentiometer (but not too much as you'll overheat, read up on this and measure it with a voltmeter to make sure you aren't going too high, I think mine
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Jonny Five
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Prusa i3 and variants
I purchased a Prusa i3 Rework DIY kit, and am experiencing the following final calibration issues. I'm hoping someone here can help me out!
1. I've had a lot of issues with the z-axis not moving high enough up on prints, resulting in the nozzle colliding with layers. I think I have everything fine tuned perfectly now, and should have every mechanical setting in the firmware correct (steps per un
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Jonny Five
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Printing
I've had a lot of issues with the z-axis not moving high enough up on prints, resulting in the nozzle colliding with layers. I think I have everything fine tuned perfectly now, and should have every mechanical setting in the firmware correct, extruder calibrated, voltages set, and am measuring filament diameter regularly - these things improved it greatly. I have had a couple random instances whe
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Jonny Five
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Prusa i3 and variants
My z-axis offset is at -1 in the slicer settings. I did this to fine tune the nozzle height and get it closer to the bed without moving the z-axis endstop (since I haven't been able to print the adjustable endstop yet). I'm not sure how this could cause the issue, though, especially since when printing the thin wall 0.5mm calibration cube, the layers look perfect. Could this somehow be causing a
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Jonny Five
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Printing
Yeah, I went through all of that, and I thought I had it dialed in! Changing the z-axis steps to 4,000, what they should be for my same setup also, seemed to fix the issue for about 4 calibration cubes (although I had to reduce the feedrate from 5 to 2 since the motors weren't moving at all and I think they were trying to move too fast). I did adjust the potentiometer on the stepper motor also to
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Jonny Five
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Printing
I came here to ask basically this same question.
I printed my first print, the calibration cube. Although it's obviusly not perfect, and I need to calibrate more, it worked as intended and I'm happy just to see the printer works!
I tried another file I found on thingiverse, and a few minutes into the print I noticed the nozzle was running into the layers as it ran across the bed. It got worse a
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Jonny Five
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Printing
QuoteBoxSon
Quoteunderthetire
Worked out in the end, the Replikeo Jhead was VERY loose in the extruder body, and the sainsmart one was not. So i have one close to perfect Jhead now, and no more replikeo ABS. I had also ordered a J head from Banggood US, so I did have a backup, but i sold that one to a guy at work.
How did you fix the loose J-Head in the end? I recieved a kit, buildt it up and no
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Jonny Five
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Prusa i3 and variants
I have a few questions for you guys:
1: Where are you plugging in your fans? The Replikeo kit fan has bare wires, and I assume they intend for it to be plugged into D9 (I emailed them and they actually said plug it directly into my power supply...?)? The image on the reprap wiki though shows a different location which would require a connector (as this is an extruder fan, right?): Fan Wiring Opt
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Jonny Five
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Prusa i3 and variants
How did you guys mount your y-axis motor? The wiki instructions state to mount it such that the plug faces downwards. I've found that the power plug won't fit well though and the frame doesn't sit completely flat, and it kinks the wires as well.
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Jonny Five
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBratan
QuoteJonny Five
Why are the fan power wires cut at the halfway point and then re-soldered back together? What does this accomplish?
Why do you think they were cut? That's probably how long wire were that came with the fan, so extended wire was soldered...
The build instructions for the prusa i3 rework on the reprap page actually tell you to cut the fan wires halfway, then resolder,
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Jonny Five
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Prusa i3 and variants
Why are the fan power wires cut at the halfway point and then re-soldered back together? What does this accomplish?
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Jonny Five
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Prusa i3 and variants
Why even use the spacers? Couldn't you just shorten the screw lengths?
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Jonny Five
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Prusa i3 and variants