Show all posts by user
Printing issues ...
Page 1 of 1 Pages: 1
Results 1 — 19 of 19
Hi,
I've been trying to work out what the cause of this problem could be for a while and I have yet to figure it out, I think it's time for me to beg the wise ones for nuggets of their wisdom.
Basically, I'm seeing the horizontal lines on my prints come out very irregularly in some parts of the print like these:
However if I print something that is hollow (has no infill, just perimeters)
by
uorbe001
-
Printing
Okay I found the problem. It has nothing to do with Marlin or the dual extruder, though I'm still quite confused as to why it didn't show anything on the logs about it before stopping the print. It turns out one of my TMC drivers (Z axis) had one of the cables slightly disconnected (it looked connected, but it kinda wasn't), so vibrations seemed to be breaking the connection and making Marlin shu
by
uorbe001
-
Firmware - Marlin
I just read this had new comments while looking through my post history, and in case anyone lands here I want to say I no longer have this issue. A few months after I posted this, I replaced my PCB bed with a silicone heated bed, and that thing works like a charm. Nothing seems to make the new heated bed even blink (after pid tunning), no matter what I throw at it, and it is way quicker to heat u
by
uorbe001
-
General
I just tried slicing the same thing with Cura, and I get the same, it stops the print with no errors after a few layers. I then tried to print it using a single extruder and it prints just fine, so the issue seems to be related to the dual extruder, I just haven't got a clue what it is.
Also tried printing this cube with a nozzle for each part, and got the same issue, so it definitely feels lik
by
uorbe001
-
Firmware - Marlin
Hi,
I'm experiencing a very weird issue I'm unable to debug. I have a relatively small print I'm trying to print to test if the alignment of the nozzles on my dual extruder is correct, and whenever I try to print it (from the sd card reader), the printer just restarts itself without any visible errors. I sliced it with Slic3r PE, and then I tried to slice it with Prusa Slicer, both versions do t
by
uorbe001
-
Firmware - Marlin
QuoteOrigamibCheck out the thermistor wiring like the Dentist said. Interference may be telling the thermistor it is colder than it actually is. Perhaps invest in an infra red thermometer to see what happens to the bed when the fan comes on. Is it actually losing temperature??
I have tried touching the heatbed when the fan is running (static, I don't want to burn myself!) and it does feel like
by
uorbe001
-
General
Ok, I just tried a couple of prints after the soldering I mentioned up there. When I print a relatively small thing like the stl I attached (precision-block.stl) at 65C, it can print it now, but the temperature did drop to 63C for a second when the extruder fan turned on (and went back to 64 pretty quickly, until it eventually stabilized at 65 for the rest of the print).
I also tried printing t
by
uorbe001
-
General
Quotetechristian
Are you printing in your house ?...or outside in a cold garage?
Dan
Indoors, room temperature is about 20C.
by
uorbe001
-
General
QuoteJamesK
If it's a pcb bed heater, it's normal to have problems holding 110C+ when using part cooling fans, but not being able to hold 60C suggests the heater isn't working properly. If it's a dual 12/24V bed, make sure it's correctly wired for 12V, two of the pads have to be shorted together. If it's correctly wired, measure the bed resistance to check it's in the normal range of about 1 to 1
by
uorbe001
-
General
Quotethe_digital_dentist
The bed should not vary by 1C. Turn on PID control or rerun the PID autotuning. You shouldn't see more than 0.2C or so variation in bed temperature unless the heater is underpowered and you're operating at its limit, in which case you should get a higher powered bed heater (and then a bigger power supply, and new controller that can handle the increased current, etc.- t
by
uorbe001
-
General
Quotethe_digital_dentist
Post a picture of the machine.
A 40mm square fan can't possibly move enough air to cool the bed by much. Maybe noise from the fan wires is coupling into the thermistor wires and causing problems for the control code. Don't share wires withe the thermistor, and keep the fan wires away from the thermistor wires. It is best to twist the fan wires and twist the thermis
by
uorbe001
-
General
Hello,
I'm experiencing issues with my printer (it's a prusa derivative, which I have modified) with a new extruder fan I added. The new fan is great and makes complex models print a lot better than the previous one, but whenever the fan turns on, the bed has serious issues keeping up with the temperature and ends up in a thermal runaway most often than not (specially with small objects).
I'm
by
uorbe001
-
General
A bit of background first: I recently opened another thread where someone pointed out to me there was something weird going on with the extrusion temp on my printer. I looked into it, and found there was a lot of molten plastic all over the extruder block (it was covered on some sort of isolator, so I didn't see it), this had stuck the ceramic cartridge heater and the thermistor (and the thermist
by
uorbe001
-
General
Quotedc42
What filament are you using, that the manufacturer recommends a minimum temperature of 230C for but still works OK at 215C?
Are you certain that your firmware is correctly configured for your hot end thermistor?
I just downloaded the technical sheet from the manufacturer's website (for abs: ) and it says the hotend should be around 240C for printing, I have been printing at 230 for a
by
uorbe001
-
Slic3r
It makes sense that some slicers generate a better path than others for certain prints, but the one generated by slic3r seems to make sense (in an strangely dumb kind of way). It feels like there is something wrong with my extruder (or config) that causes those 'nozzle holes' in the slic3r version and maybe a better extruder wouldn't have this issue. In any case, I have tried other prints and th
by
uorbe001
-
Slic3r
Quotedc42
Are you sure it's not a stringing problem? Retraction won't cure that, but reducing the temperature might.
Not sure, I tried decreasing the temperature 15 degrees (that's about 20 degrees below the manufacturer's recommended temp!) and the result seems to be similar to the second picture I posted above, maybe slightly better:
Quotethe_digital_dentist
Try slicing in Cura. Tool paths
by
uorbe001
-
Slic3r
Quotedc42No, retraction occurs for any travel move whose length exceeds the "Minimum travel after retraction" setting.
Ah, you are right. I increased the amount of lift from .2mm to .3mm and I watched it while it was printing these layers, and it did in fact lift the nozzle on those movements. It went from this (where the movement lines are pretty obvious, although the picture might not show it)
by
uorbe001
-
Slic3r
Quotedc42
Slicer does have a "Lift Z" option, it's in the retraction settings for the extruder. I use it all the time on my delta printer.
Yes, but the retraction (and thus the lift) is only triggered when it changes from one layer/piece to another doesn't it? I have it setup to lift .2mm with a .15mm layer height, and I am still seeing it drag for this piece.
by
uorbe001
-
Slic3r
I'm trying to print this piece that has a weird pattern on the top layer using slic3r, and I'm having issues with it:
The issue I have is that when it tries to print the last layer it moves like this:
This causes the nozzle to print one of the elements in the pattern, and then move back to the corner, where it goes on to print a different one, but on the space it travels through, the nozzle
by
uorbe001
-
Slic3r