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Printing issues ...
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diagnose it methodically. does the stepper turn? Try loading a simple test program that runs the extruder stepper (google for test programs). if not, see what happens if you try the motor on one of the other drivers that you know works. if it still doesn't work look at the cabling. (it's kind of unlikely you got a bad stepper but not unheard of). if the motor is ok, try swapping drivers to see i
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seattle_phil
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Prusa i3 and variants
It's not advances/new features I'd worry about, it's good old fashioned bugs getting fix. Also, I agree with Qdeathstar about the stepper drivers as well. Blow one, you blow the board (or have to do PCB surgery if you can).
But, hey, you should go ahead and buy it if it makes you happy.
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seattle_phil
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CoreXY Machines
Hmmm. first off, I think you mean Arduino, not andrino.
1) possible but assume no
2) there are two different things. The printer configuration is in the firmware on the arduino. the print settings will be embedded in the g-code you generate with the slicer.
3) yes
4) arduino. it's the board the runs the printer and also the development environment (aka IDE) for arduino software. you want it. you
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seattle_phil
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Prusa i3 and variants
Interesting board but it doesn't say what firmware it runs - my guess that means it's their own. Personally, I'd skip non-open source FW simply because you are at the mercy of the manufacturer's continued support.
By the way, have you tried trimming back acceleration? When I first upgraded to Marlin 1.1 my acceleration was too high and got missed steps that translated into a layer shift.
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seattle_phil
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CoreXY Machines
Glad you are making progress. I think the various suggestions about leveling/plum bobs/... are spot on. I would level the table it sits on with shims and then do what others have suggested. For my prusa i3 derivative printer I built, I built a table for it to sit on and put levelers on each leg. If I move the table, the first thing I do it level it - a 5 minute job. Having a flat, level surface
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seattle_phil
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CoreXY Machines
I would guess that you have a slipping belt. On my printer (prusa i3 deriv) I had some binding of a belt idler bearing as well as looseness in the belt and would hear a "pop" when it skipped a tooth. Result was a layer shift. Tightening up the belt and reworking the bearing. fixed the problem. I don't know coreXY that well (yet!) but your belts seem to have some slack in them - are they supposed
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seattle_phil
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CoreXY Machines
I guess I was surprised to see the posts trying to discourage you. What you are doing is a good thing. My only concern is that you will need to do a lot of connecting well in advance. Schools often have their events scheduled many months in advance.
Have you tried to get sponsorship? That could not only help with funding but also add credibility and help open doors.
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seattle_phil
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Prusa i3 and variants
Noises - hmmm. Hard to say but could be missed steps. Have you looked at the steppers to determine what current they draw? Have you tuned the driver so it's delivering the needed current. What happens when you try to run a stepper unloaded (disconected frm the lead screw)? Those are big motors and pull a fair amount of current. Very few 3DPrinters use NEMA 23s.
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seattle_phil
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Printing
Not clear where you are and what your sources are. Plus you don't say what your extruder is but if you first look in marlin/configuration.h and scroll down to the the Thermal Settings section you will see along list of thermistors that are supported. I'd find a local/easy source of one that is on that list. It will be far cheaper to buy a couple of those than to get sense amplifiers for the therm
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seattle_phil
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Firmware - Marlin
I use 9 point (3x3) bed leveling - Marlin 1.1.0 rc3. Can you opt for 3x3? That would catch a bulge in the middle.
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seattle_phil
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Printing
QuoteSrek
M8 thread has 1.25mm/1. If you have a standard 1.6° 200 steps/1 stepper motor 1mm will take 160 full steps These 160 full steps need to be multiplied by whatever microstepping you use, if it is 32 you get 5120 steps/mm.
Um, 360 degrees/200 steps = 1.8 degree/step but otherwise correct.
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seattle_phil
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Mechanics
If you do 3 way mesh bed leveling, what are your offsets? As I understand it, mesh leveling should handle most situations. I'm using "heavy duty glass" (3/16" iirc) from ACE hardware and, between it and my bed, it's off by about 0.5mm with no problems due to that. Thinner glass will bend if your underlying bed is significantly off from flat.
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seattle_phil
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Printing
There is some potential here but a LOT of challenges. Probably the biggest one is that solder isn't attracted to plastic. It takes flux just to get it to stick to metal. Maybe a flux impregnated substrate would work but I wonder what the costs would be to the end user. Another problem is that most PCBs are at least two layer. You would have to figure out printing vias. Although, if you can figure
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seattle_phil
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Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)