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Printing issues ...
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So, I was 8.5 hours into a print when, to my horror, I see the nozzle air printing and the extruder missing steps. I stop the print and try to wipe off the nozzle with a piece of discarded filament, but it doesn't melt. The temperature still reads 245 but the hotend is significantly colder than it should be. I reset the printer and heat it up again. The temperature seems to stabilize at 245, but
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Alex_1234
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Printing
So I was starting a print and all was fine, then the temperature hit 177° then stopped. I waited a second then saw the PETG boiling on the nozzle and I knew something was wrong. I cut the power and when I turned the printer back on, It reported ~400°.
I would like to get this problem fixed as soon as possible as I value my house not being burned down. Anyone know what's going on here? Any help
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Alex_1234
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General
Turns out I had a crappy heater cartridge, Replaced and seems okay for now.
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Alex_1234
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Printing
What slicer are you using?
If you use cura you can set the infill line width. Try setting it to 130% of you nozzle diameter.
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Alex_1234
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Printing
I am printing PETG at ~260° and about 2 minutes after printing starts the temperature slowly falls and eventually fails.
I have an E3D V5 hot end and cannot find a silicone sock for it. I have tried wrapping it in tinfoil, but that eventually falls off and ruins prints.
Does anyone know of a way to insulate a hot end with common materials?
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Alex_1234
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Printing
It sounds like a hardware problem. Check that the heater cartridges connection to the control board is good. if you have a multimeter you can check the resistance over the cartridge while flexing the wires and see if it changers significantly. I would also recommend you replace the heater cartridge if the problem doesn't go away.
I have had this problem too and solved it by soldering the crimp c
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Alex_1234
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Printing
I just replaced the nozzle, so I doubt this is the problem, but I'll clean the nozzle anyways.
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Alex_1234
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Printing
Recently, I have noticed that the lines on prints are too thin and not sticking to each other, resulting in weak parts. The infill does not stick to the wall either.
I have tried different settings and done about ~15 test prints, with no success.
Does anyone know how to solve this problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
(If you would like to see a picture of the test prints just ask)
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Alex_1234
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Printing
I have the same printer and the same problem.
I solved it by adjusting the Kossel rod length in firmware until the circles were round, then changing the size in cura until the part were the right size.
Don't expect the holes to be perfectly accurate, 3D printed holes tend to be 0.2-0.5mm to small.
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Alex_1234
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Printing
I do have some steel core belt I was going to use for another project, but I'll replace the belts and see if that helps.
I also found a screw to tighten the wheels against the v-slot and I have tightened those to.
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Alex_1234
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Delta Machines
I have had delta printer for a while now and I am wondering if converting it to a lead screw system is even possible and if it is would it increase print quality. The current problem I am having is I can push the effector and it will deflect about 2-3mm with little force and that is causing ghosting and exclusions on prints. Would lead screws solve this problem?
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Alex_1234
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Delta Machines
I would prefer Marlin, but you should use a smoothie board for a delta of this scale.
About the motors, if they're under 2 amps you can drive them with a DRV8825, but if they draw more currant you would have to use an external drivers which are hard to use with Marlin.
If you haven't bought the motors yet I would use these ones:
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Alex_1234
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Delta Machines
Your endstop logic may be incorrect.
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Alex_1234
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Printing
Just thought of something; check that you extruder gear is properly mounted on the motor shaft and tighten the grub screw.
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Alex_1234
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Printing
It looks like your nozzle is slightly undersized or you have a clogged nozzle, if you have the tools you could try drilling it out to .4 or .5mm. For now try changing your nozzle diameter to 0.35 or 0.3mm in you slicer.
Also check your filament diameter with calipers too, I doubt this is the problem but it doesn't hurt to check.
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Alex_1234
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Printing
Is your extruder motor skipping steps? If so, it's most likely a problem of a blocked/deformed filament path that was caused after you reassembled your hot end.
It may also be a low quality nozzle, where did you get it?
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Alex_1234
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Printing
I would also recommend Folgertech, their 16mm rods are strait and within 0.01mm tolerance and everything came well packaged.
I don't know if they will cut the rods for you, but I'm sure a local metal shop could do it quite cheaply.
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Alex_1234
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General
This sensor will work with Arduino, although you may need a comparator for it to work.
It also has a tough time sensing glass or reflective objects
I would recommend you watch this video:
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Alex_1234
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RAMPS Electronics
I'm using AMZ3D PETG. It comes out with a matt finish if it's printed at a low temp and speed.
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Alex_1234
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General
Quotethe_digital_dentist
I don't know how to fix the problem with your printer, but I can tell you that that motor mount is going to be completely unsatisfactory if the motor is moving any kind of load. That type of design is the first thing that comes to mind because you see them made of steel. The problem is we're not using steel. Plastic is flexible. Another thing to consider: that's a lar
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Alex_1234
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Printing
QuoteDust
Your picture is of a stepper motor and the plastics is barely part of the picture!!
You haven't included your models.. so we have no idea is its design error or what
Even just the stl would help...
But basically your saying that machine is not calibrated.
So what firmware is it running, did they provide source so it can be edited?
I am running the version of marlin that the prin
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Alex_1234
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Printing
Is "cantilever" the term your looking for?
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Alex_1234
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General
I have some used NEMA 17 48mm motors, what price are you looking for?
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Alex_1234
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Wanted
QuoteDust
3d printers cannot print accurate holes... You have to over size them in the CAD.
See as to why and the math needed to correct for it.
I understand that, but it's not just holes that are too small, on the bracket I included a picture for the distance between holes in also too short.
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Alex_1234
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Printing
I have had a Anycubic Kossel delta printer for about 6 months now and have recently been printing parts that need accurate parts. The first thing I noticed the problem with was a NEMA 23 that I modeled with ~1mm larger clearances that was printer at 105% scale and still was too small for the motor to fit. I tried different extrusion multipliers, nozzle sizes, line widths, and delta rod length but
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Alex_1234
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Printing
Just tested the endstop pin and they are putting out 6.6v.
I assume that means the Arduino will have to be replaced.
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Alex_1234
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RAMPS Electronics
I was recently testing endstops on my RAMPS board when I saw I had one plugged in backwards. I turned off the power and fixed the endstop, but when I turned on the power supply the LCD was completely white with all the pixels on. I can still see the LCD working if I view it from an angle and it works fine if only powered by only USB.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Alex_1234
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RAMPS Electronics