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Printing issues ...
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Howdy,
Well if you are looking for something a bit smaller you could look at Wallace style printers/kits. Do NOT order an actual PrintBot. They have a very bad reputation for quality, shipping, and communication.
I have seen this kit before This has everything including the plastic parts.
also here is the Wallace info
Best of luck, this hobby is addicting. BTW I know there is a hackerpac
by
ikilledkenny
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Mankato Blue Earth County Minnesota RUG
I have 4 stepsticks (A4988 chip) are there any issues with using these drives for the X3?
by
ikilledkenny
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For Sale
PTFE liner is always a positive. It will add additional lubrication for the filament to slide through.
As far as hole wise I agree with Benjamin. Larger is not necessarily better for your filament guide hole. Think of the melted filament like a plunger. If there is extra space around the filament molten plastic can be pushed back up, cooling, and jamming. Same can be said at the joint betwe
by
ikilledkenny
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Reprappers
Found this yesterday
700x700x500m
by
ikilledkenny
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General
Print speed and settings are going to constantly change depending on what you print, no matter how good your calibartion settings are.
your settings to print a calibation cube will be different then that of a mini desk windmill (thingiverse). It is just how it is.
Over time you will be able to look at a print and figure what you may or may not need to change in regards to print speed.
Slice
by
ikilledkenny
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General
I have been able to change the color of the filament using a perminate marker and just coloring the filament. I wonder though if this could also be done say if the filament was drawn through an expoy paint sponge.
As far as urithanes I believe most water based urithanes will not react with plastic, so you do not have to worry about a chemical reaction.
by
ikilledkenny
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General
This is tough because most reprap designs are designed to be scaled (both larger and smaller). Also depending on what modifcations/deviations you do this could increase your X, Y, or Z. I think it comes down to if you want to use a hot bed. In particular if you are planing on using Prusa's hot bed design. In which case the print area will be around 200 x 200. Max. Your Z height will depend
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ikilledkenny
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General
Interesting idea I think I might try this at work next, but I think sharp corners and fine featuers would be lost.
Have you tried dunking the ABS in acetone? A friend tried this and the surface smoothed out quite a bit. I have also gotten good results by just sanding the part as well as using body putty (like the stuff used on cars).
by
ikilledkenny
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General
I have had issues with the hot end not able to each temp. For some reason once by hot end is close to or touches the bed it will not get up the set temp causing the host program to pause untill hot end temp is reached. I believe this is due to the bed sucking away heat from the hot end and not able to keep up. I fixed this way
1) Home X, Home Y, Z @10mm Then I manually set my hotend temp to
by
ikilledkenny
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General
I have seen this question posted a few times, and it is a bit hard to figure based on just a slicing program. I know Skeinfordge does generate a cost but unsure how accurea it is.
A lot of CAD programs will give you the total volume of a part allowing you to do figure the weight of the part based off the material dencity.
If it where me I would base all quotes off 100% infill. This allows for
by
ikilledkenny
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General
Depending on your print direction (AKA where the infill is) this will come out either clear or white.
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ikilledkenny
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General
Slic3r support generation is still in extream infant stage. As slic3r versions have progressed it has improved, but it still is not perfect, nor up to par with SFACTS, or Skienfordge. The developer is still working on this aspect (see the developers notes).
I love Slic3r, and it is my primary slicing program, but I highly suggest learning skeinfordge, just for the fact that it will help you
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ikilledkenny
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General
A few things to think about as well.
In your firmware make sure you have the same baud rate selected as what you want your host program to use (in my case 115200)
Another suggestion, try a different host software just to eliminate this variable. I have the same electronic setup, but I use Repetier-Host .50 and love it.
last you can upload a this test sketch to your arduino board and see if ther
by
ikilledkenny
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General
I found the Mendal90, and I see what you mean. That is SOLID, and should be a bit quicker as well with the boards. I still have not found any info on the Prusa i3. If you could post a link that would rock.
As for vendor's let me know what you are looking to get machined. The company Stu and I work for has a sister company who is a machine shop. We also have an extreamly good machinest dow
by
ikilledkenny
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Mankato Blue Earth County Minnesota RUG
I have not taken a look at either design yet, but will shortly. What are the benefits to either design over the prusa (what I am more familiar with)?
Also what electronics, firmware, and hotend do you plan on using?
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ikilledkenny
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Mankato Blue Earth County Minnesota RUG
A Hackerspace is something Stu and I have talked about starting for a while, and is a great idea. I think getting together one of these weekends would be awesome.
Stu and I also talked about seeing if BWW would let us use the back room one of these days. RepRap, Beer, Wings I think it would be an awesome time. Also might gather more interest in 3D printing/hackerspace. I don't know what it
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ikilledkenny
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Mankato Blue Earth County Minnesota RUG
Fantastic!
I live in Kasota, and my buddy lives in Mankato. We have built two prusa's so far (one for work, and one for fun). Defiantly would want to meet up some. I will try and frequent the IRC channel more often, also I am usually on the forums at least once a day.
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ikilledkenny
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Mankato Blue Earth County Minnesota RUG
Here is the link for the ABS juice thread
For me I actually use the same sheet of glass (one side ABS one side PLA). just make sure the ABS side does not have any bumps.
ABS and PLA print differently. Think of it like this. ABS extrudes like one of them playdough spaghetti presses, uniform and holds its shape. PLA prints like pressing on the end of a toothpaste tube. It comes out as a cir
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ikilledkenny
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General
I second Justblair suggestion of ABS juice. I have had great results using just ABS juice and glass (no tape). If you are going to go with that low of temperature I would HIGH suggest really coating the glass with the juice. I have found that taking a paper towel and dabbing a few layers on causes the surface to become rough. This really helps keep the ABS stuck to the glass (NOTE you may ha
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ikilledkenny
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General
A buddy and I have build two Prusa's over the last 3 months. Obviously there is a physical difference between the Prusa and Mendel, but the electronics, firmware, software, hot end, ect... near identical. Shoot out a post if you run into a snag. We have learned a lot of what to do and what not to do over the last 3 months. Best of luck.
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ikilledkenny
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Minnesota Twin Cities RepRap User Group
Mankato represent.
Current have built two identical Prusa's
RAMPS 1.4 electronics
Repeter - firmware
Repetier Host & Slic3r
.35 dia nozzle,
J-head
1.70 filament.
Thingiverse -
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ikilledkenny
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Minnesota Twin Cities RepRap User Group
Seen this forum was created be no threads. I am interested in seeing the amount of individuals in the area who may want to meet up, do weekend builds, or simply BS and drink a beer all in the name of RepRap
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ikilledkenny
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Mankato Blue Earth County Minnesota RUG
Slice up each Prusa plate with SF. Once it is complete SF gives you detailed facts (cost, weight, total length,ect). I dont know how accurate this is but it could provides you a ball park on how many parts you could print with each color.
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ikilledkenny
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Reprappers
I have tried two different methods of applying the ABS juice.
1) Cold (or coldish) glass. With very thin ABS juice (a lot of acetone little ABS). I use a paper towel to apply, leaves a very light haze. Works well for hot beds (95 - 110). Part removal is also very easy, usually need nothing more then a sharp knife.
2) Hot glass, very thick ABS juice. Still use a paper towel to apply but bec
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ikilledkenny
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Reprappers
Fantastic thread, and awesome information.
We have been having a lot of issues with keeping the print stuck to the bed (ABS, heated glass bed w/tape). The ABS juice works fantastic, and gives us a larger temperature window for the bed.
Thanks again for this awesome idea, it has helped a lot
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ikilledkenny
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Reprappers
I had a simular issue with our first hot end. It was a PTFE brass NiChrome hot end . After constant breakdowns and rebuilds it finally worked, but only for two days. It then failed and would consistantly jam. I believe that the issue was the plastic (in my case ABS) would grow and then grip onto the brass causing the jam.
For me the fix ended up changing to a J-head design. Having a PTFE
by
ikilledkenny
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Reprappers
It is a suite of free 3D programs.
123D - 3D model program
123D Catch - turns photographs into 3d models
123D Make - turns 3D models into flat patterns to be cut from.
I am going to download the applications here today and compare them to the other Autodesk programs (Inventor, Mudbox, 3DS Max)
Anyone read or heard about this?
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ikilledkenny
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Reprappers
After much searching for a STL converter or even STEP/IGES versions of the current Prusa build I just decided to do the conversion myself and share.
In order to get the conversion to work I first opened the STL files in 3DS Max, then converted that into a .SAT file. Then opened that file in Autodesk Inventor Fusion and converted that into a STEP file. With all of this converting going on I kno
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ikilledkenny
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Reprappers
How well are you insulating the wire if at all? I found that this kind of hot end looses heat REALLY fast. During my trials with this design I found that the wire insulation would burn more if I had less insulation. I think it is a matter of the control continuously pumping out mass qty's of current in order to heat up the tip, and prevent the tip from cooling. Try either the furnace cement o
by
ikilledkenny
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Reprappers
Thank you Aplavins, and everyone else. This really has helped me understand how the hot ends really work.
My victory was short lived, as on during my first long print day the PTFE got too hot, deformed and created a gap between the two parts in turn pushing out my helicoil/stainless tube. (I need to install a fan).
Well back to the drawing board. In which case I have been looking around and
by
ikilledkenny
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Reprappers
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