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Printing issues ...
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I'm trying to print the double Helix at .1mm, but there are some self intersections in it that cause problems in Slic3r. The first one or two bridges for each crossbar are unconnected at both ends. Kisslicer can't handle it either, but Skeinforge can. Since I am doing .1mm layers, I want plenty of perimeters, fill and solid layers for the base, but not the actual helix. With Slic3r I would sl
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IanJohnson
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General
I might try to make an Arcol work. The Makergear's low operating temp is a bit limiting if you want to try other materials like Polycarbonate.
In the meantime, would a .5 nozzle reduce backpressure significantly? Is there much of a tradeoff in detail between .5 and .35?
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IanJohnson
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General
My limits are clearly with extrusion rather than XY motors. My extruder is direct drive with a Nema 17 motor going into a Makergear hot end, with 1.75 filament and .35 nozzle. With PLA at 190 and ABS at 210 I'm getting skipping at 150 on lines long enough to hit top speed. Would adding a gearbox make any difference? Or does it all come down to the speed of melting?
I could go hotter with A
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IanJohnson
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General
I've been experimenting with printing at 150-250mm/s with the current Marlin. Should I be concerned about the motors at these speeds? I know the movement is smoother with acceleration, so they aren't having to jerk everything around so much. With typical Nema 17 steppers and a gantry setup (no bowden) should it still be well within the motor's specs to haul around the extruder at 250mm/s?
The
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IanJohnson
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General
You can slice it with fill and hollow, and then copy and paste the hollow gcode into the fill gcode at the z height you want. This is easier to do with Slic3r code. Just search the file for G1 Z(height in mm where you want the change).
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IanJohnson
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General
You can try a fire cloth, used in welding. I often just throw a dish cloth on there since that is what I have on hand.
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IanJohnson
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General
3DPrinterGear in Australia has a sample of clear ABS which looks pretty good. He is planning to start selling it in a couple of weeks.
Clear ABS at 3DPrinterGear
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IanJohnson
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General
I wanted to get mine in as well, even though it is after the 10th. I had a lot of failed prints and problems with breakage. A combination of Z lift and the increased nozzle size trick seems to have worked for me.
This is printed with a Solidoodle 2 in ABS. The S2 has a 1.75 Makergear hot end with a direct drive extruder.
; layer_height = 0.2
; perimeters = 3
; solid_layers = 4
; fill_density
by
IanJohnson
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Competitions
How do you balance the need for the lower layer to be hot enough to create a good bond, and the need for it to be cool enough that the extruding plastic doesn't push it around?
If the lower layer has cooled, does slow movement allow the nozzle to heat it enough for a good bond? If the plastic is extruded a little extra hot with slow movement and a fan duct around the nozzle, will that heat it j
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IanJohnson
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General
I thought clear ABS would be cool because the glossy acetone finish could mean extra clarity, especially for a single walled print. If it turns yellow when you extrude it, then that wouldn't be so good.
by
IanJohnson
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General
Is there a rule of thumb regarding the best thread width for .1mm prints? I usually use 1.4 for .3mm layers which gives me .42mm threads, but the same ratio gives me .14mm theads for .1mm layers which is too thin to stick to. Aside from layer adhesion, does the thread width have any noticeable effect on the quality of the surface?
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IanJohnson
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General
I found one hit (about the only one for clear abs filament) that said the ABS described as clear from a Chinese supplier turned out to be natural opaque. There is a supplier in Australia who also offers "natural/clear" It seems that to them, clear means "not colored" rather than transparent.
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IanJohnson
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General
Is there a reason no one offers clear ABS filament? I know you can get clear ABS in sheets, is there something about it that makes it harder to manufacture as filament?
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IanJohnson
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General
In this case there are 2 .35mm Makergear nozzles extruding ABS at 200C from Pronterface at 300mm/min. One is getting around .6mm and the other is getting .38mm extrusions. Is this significant at all, or is the die swell more or less random within a certain range?
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IanJohnson
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General
How wide should the extrusion into air be for a .35 nozzle? I"ve read that it should be in the neighborhood of .6mm. I've been having some trouble with my extruder skipping, and the free extrusion is around.38. I'm wondering if there is some kind of blockage in the nozzle. I've taken off the nozzle and barrel and torched them clean, but I'm still having trouble.
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IanJohnson
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General
I'm really happy about the saved defaults and not needing to hunt down my config every time I open the program.
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IanJohnson
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General
Slic3r 0.9.1. I can try Skeinforge, but I don't have it dialed in as well as Slic3r. Maybe the bug is still there in the new version.
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IanJohnson
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General
Yes, the single wall is within .02mm or so of the thread width I entered into Slic3r, I had to set the extrusion multiplier to .92 to get it there. I'm also being careful not to include the first layer when measuring since it is a little more squished.
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IanJohnson
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General
I understand why interior circles come out undersized, but is there a reason for interior rectangles to be undersized? The slots in this part are designed to be 5mm, but print at +- .1mm of 4.5. The X and Y are clalibrated to be within abut .05mm of each other, and the extruder is calibrated as well, so that when I print a single perimeter wall, the thickness of the wall matches the thread widt
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IanJohnson
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General
So what specifically in your experience sucks about the Cube? First hand impressions have been a little tough to come by. Are there shortcomings to the machine itself, apart from proprietary money grubbing aspects like registration, charging for STL downloads and expensive filament?
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IanJohnson
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General
Is it too complicated to be printed in 2 parts and welded with acetone?
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IanJohnson
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General
What if you print the box balanced on an edge? Create some thin support walls to keep it from falling over, otherwise everything is 45 degree angles. It might be tough to pull off, but would make an interesting experiment.
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IanJohnson
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General
Have you tried the Autodesk Inventor Fusion preview? It is kind of a mix of CAD and the way you like to work. I came from 3DS Max and had a hard time getting my head around the 2D-3D workflow. I stuck with it with Alibre, and for parts that need holes and specific dimensions and things, I prefer it. It's easy to define distances, lining up centers, making changes, etc. If I only care about
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IanJohnson
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General
I'm looking to calibrate the thermistor, or at least get a real world point of reference for its readings. Are the wire types like this usually thin enough to go into hot ends sized for 1.75 filament?
This is the one I had meant to link to -
Descriptions generally don't say what the size of the wire is with the insulation. Would the insulation be OK at inside a 200C barrel?
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IanJohnson
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General
I'm looking at getting a thermocouple for measuring the hot end. Is this the correct type?
Do you tape the end of the wire to the bottom of the nozzle to measure the temp?
by
IanJohnson
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General
Does anyone have a good method for measuring the movement of X and Y to .1mm, just by the movement alone? I'm trying to dial in the accuracy of my X and Y (gantry style, no sliding bed) but I don't trust using prints to do it since there are enough variables between slicers and other factors that can throw a measurement .1 or more in either direction.
Also, do the slicers account for thread wid
by
IanJohnson
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General
Some improvements in calculating fill would be nice. If I had something like a large box, I can't print hollow because the top would need support. I would like to see fill begin to be generated part way up the print as bridges that would get gradually longer until they were solid enough to support the top. Kind of like building an arch or half dome on the inside of a large print. Or it could
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IanJohnson
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General
I think the next big thing in hobby level printers is SLA. There is plenty of room for improvement to get the cost down to something like $500 +whatever deal you find on the projector. The finish and detail of the objects look more like what most people in the mainstream expect.
I don't know that there are any big things left in FDM, just little improvements that will make printing at .05mm
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IanJohnson
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General
It's cool in theory, but I don't really see why I would want to make my own filament, unless it makes it easier or cheaper to make small batches of different colors. That would depend on being able to get pellets in small quantity. Or if there was a way to make my own colors with pigments or easily calculated recipes for mixing colored pellets. If I could start with a large quantity of natural
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IanJohnson
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General
I like acetone as well, but it isn't an option with PLA. My best results so far have been using a clear resin coat to fill in the texture, and sanding and buffing for something that needed to be smooth enough for molding. That was a part shaped something like a hockey puck which was relatively easy. Something like a figurine is more complicated to sand, so I was hoping for a mechanical solutio
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IanJohnson
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General
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