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Printing issues ...
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Not a bad idea. Unfortunately this isn't an option for me. It seems I will have to try redesigning the part.
by
fsamir
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Printing
Hi everyone,
can anyone help to fix this issue?
It is a 3mm thick, 5cm tall and 15cm long rectangle and as you can see, there are two massive curling on opposite sides, separating the the layers more or less in the middle of the print.
Parameters:
1.75 ABS
225C
90C heated bed
Tried lowering speed from 60mm/s to 30mm/s
fan is on.
I believe if use bevel corners and increase the bed temperature,
by
fsamir
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Printing
I am also interested in readgin some RapidBot 3 reviews.
by
fsamir
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General
Hi there,
I believe I am transitioning from a beginner to intermmediate in terms of Sketchup skills. I am already capable of designinng basic sketches and modifying existing ones. However, I find it very frustrating having to use NetFabb to repair even the simplest design. Also, even worse is the process of changing a sketch that has been fixed because it get overloaded with polygons.
I've also
by
fsamir
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3D Design tools
Do a search from "aquarium" here at the forum and you'll find a post about this exact same subject.
As a rule of thumb, both PLA and ABS are safe for use in aquariums, but PLA will be consumed by bacterias in saltwater, as it is a bio plastic.
I normally print my prototypes in PLA to avoid ABS fumes and when I am happy with it, I print the final part with ABS.
by
fsamir
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Polymer Working Group
Following the topic, as sometimes I face the same issue.
by
fsamir
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Reprappers
Only problem I see is that DX is overloaded with order from all over the world and they take sometimes 2 months to deliver. Also, if the part arrives defective, preprare yourself for a endless refund process.
On eBay I get the same price and the seller is concerned about his reputation, hence better service.
by
fsamir
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New Zealand RepRap User Group
Bob, thas is what I said 10 posts ago hehehe
Slic3r doesn't show the 3D model, not even a 2d model. It only shows how much space the object will occupy on the printing bed.
by
fsamir
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Reprappers
Marekd,
Is Slic3r poping-up an error message? If not, your sketch has NO problems. Acknowledge the fact that Slic3r doesn't display the 3D model when you import it or slice it.
by
fsamir
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Reprappers
The reason why Slic3r is not displaying your sketch correctly is likely to be because it contain wholes. I usually use NetFabb (free version) to detect and fix the wholes.
by
fsamir
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Reprappers
Have you done ALL steps in the Calibration guide? (http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration)
I've only been able to print accuratly after I nailed all calibration parts.
Personally, the things that affected the quality of my prints were:
- Poor spool holders causing too much friction.
- Idler not tighten properly.
- Bed not leveled.
- Not using fan when bridging.
- Printing too fast.
by
fsamir
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General
It is quite difficult to spot the problem with that picture. I suggest you take a better one.
by
fsamir
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Printing
It was a combination of loose idler (I swetched from 1.75mm to 1.65mm filament) and the new spool holder that I printed which is hard to spin.
by
fsamir
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Printing
I think my issue is slipping filament. I noticed it is getting harder to push filament manually over the extruder, which tells me it is time to cleanup the extruder.
Thanks.
by
fsamir
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Printing
Layer height: 0.2mm
Top solid infill: 30mm/s
Bridges: 40mm/s
BRidge flow ration: 1.3
by
fsamir
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Printing
Thanks. However, this printing has 3 shells both on vertical and horizontal layers, but the problem is only happening on the top ones.
Any other parameter that I need to provide in order to give you guys more clues?
by
fsamir
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Printing
Hi reprapers,
sometimes I get this little holes in the surface finishing. Any idea on waht could be causing it?
Slic3r settings:
ABS 1.75mm
Extruder: 225C
Speed: 30mm/s
MG Prusa Mendel
by
fsamir
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Printing
Thanks guys, both your answers are gold to me.
jcabrer, I've read my mind on the last statement.
by
fsamir
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General
Hi repraprs,
I finally got to a point where I can print perfectly perfectly (for a Prusa), detect and fix problems based on failed printings.
However, I am having to fix these issues very often, more or less after 3 or 4 prints I have to stop and fix something. To name a few problems:
Jamming;
Kapton tape breaking apart;
Bed levelling;
Y carriage difficult to move after small adjustments on t
by
fsamir
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General
I've spent one or two hours trying to adjust parameters to print with Nylon properly, but I didn't have much success.
Can someone please share Slic3r settings that actually worked?
by
fsamir
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Tantillus
I got a roll a week ago and printed a few calibration blocks, so the only things I can tell so far is the bond is impressive and the fumes (if there is any) are unnoticiable.
by
fsamir
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Tantillus
Just to close the case, the reason for tha surface finishing was because the nothend was too close of the heated bed.
I was measuring the distance with a business card, very tide, between the hotend and the heated bed.
Fixed the problem by adding an extra 0.2mm distance and now the business card slides without any effort.
by
fsamir
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Printing
So, I ended up buying the exhaust tailpipe repair paste, from SuperCheapAuto for $8 bucks and it worked quite well. I have already printed around 5 meters of filament with it and so far so good.
It was impossible to apply the paste with gloves, so I did it with bare hands and took extra care to not touch it.
Follow the pictures:
by
fsamir
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Australia, Sydney RUG
I found this one:
I am just a bit concerned because it says "Expands & sets when heated".
by
fsamir
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Australia, Sydney RUG
Thanks for the tips.
How about JB Weld. I've seen in the wiki that it has been used in what seemed to be an old extruder.
by
fsamir
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Australia, Sydney RUG
I would keep it. After waiting for the lead time, the Solidoodle will be easy to sell on eBay, even for a profit. People is keen to pay more and not wait.
by
fsamir
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General
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