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Printing issues ...
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It is a 0.4mm J-head MK IV Hotend included with that kit.
-Matt
by
mappler
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Reprappers
THANK YOU. I was having trouble figuring out which one to use for my printer specifically. That one does look like exactly the right mount. I'm not sure why I wasn't able to find that....I had looked throughout Thingiverse and failed to come up with the answer.....I was having trouble figuring out which carriage I had and was just getting frustrated.
Again, thank for the help. Time to do som
by
mappler
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Reprappers
I am fairly new to printing, but I have had excellent luck with the purple elmers washable glue sticks for both PLA and ABS for adhesion. Haven't yet tried "ABS juice" as I haven't needed to yet. A few parts have benefitted from a brim on the smaller areas to get good adhesion to the bed. I have also not tried painters tape, Kapton tape, or hairspray, but that will be next if I start having is
by
mappler
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General
I've searched around the forums and thingiverse a bit lately looking for this. I'd like to upgrade my Prusa i3 to use auto bed leveling. I have the Prusa i3 from 3dPrinterCzar. Does anyone know if there is already a servo mount designed for this? I've been unable to find one already.
Thanks,
-Matt
by
mappler
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Reprappers
You are right, I should have been more specific. In these parts, rubbing alcohol IS isopropyl alcohol... I know elsewhere it may be ethanol.
by
mappler
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Reprappers
My easy cleanup comment was referring to my perception that some glass treatments take more work to cleanup than others. I haven't used hairspray yet, but my assumption is that it will be a little "sticky" for cleanup. Covering the glass in Kapton would require removing all of it and replacing it for the next build. With the glue stick, cleanup takes about 1 minute with a razor blade and some
by
mappler
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Reprappers
I used Kapton tape to secure a piece of cork to my heated bed. I also used some Kapton tape to secure my heated bed thermistor to the bed.
I've had excellent luck so far with purple Elmer's Washable School Glue Stick to get ABS to stick to the glass over my heated bed. It scrapes off VERY easily with a razor blade when done and cleans up easy.
-Matt
by
mappler
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Reprappers
I have attached 3 pictures to this message. Photo 1 shows how I placed the Y-axis endstop. I zip tied the switch directly to the precision rod on the same side as the SINGLE bearing. It is set up so that the bearing itself hits it. This has worked very well so far, but I am concerned it will start to slide. Homing makes very gentle contact with it, so no issues so far. I would like a bette
by
mappler
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Reprappers
Sorry, I just got back after some time away. cleary, I had the same exact problem with the y-axis. I'll take some pictures this evening and post them for you if you still have this issue.
First I worked out where I needed the lower chassis mounted on the top chassis to make sure I could get the entire length of travel of the heated bed under the print nozzle. My initial setup only gave me li
by
mappler
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Reprappers
A motor is a generator. A generator is a motor. A motor converts electrical energy into mechanical energy. A generator converts mechanical energy into electrical energy. Although there are some choices you would make in design efficiency and features of one vs. the other, they are identical devices.
There is nothing else a fuse does other than to prevent too much current from flowing throu
by
mappler
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Reprappers
I have a J-head MK IV Hotend with a listed maxtemp of 247 C. I have Marlin set to 235 right now. When I print at 230C for ABS, I've triggered MAXTEMP a couple of times and had a print fail. The ABS I have is listed as having an ideal printing range of 230-240 C. Additionally, it prints well at 230. What is a safe setting for MAXTEMP? 240C?
Thanks,
-Matt
by
mappler
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Reprappers
Ok, problem now resolved.
I purchased some cork from Target on the way home and taped it to the bottom of the heatbed with Kapton tape. It now gets up to 110C with no issues.
DaveX I never even got around to testing it out with the bench power supply! That was the next step!
Thank you everyone for your help.
-Matt
by
mappler
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Reprappers
Ok, I've checked connections at the RAMPS board. They are as rock solid as they are capable of being.
Voltage at the heated bed is reading 11.7 volts. I can increase voltage on my power supply and get that to 12V, but then I am supplying about 12.7 volts to the Arduino/RAMPS to get to 12V on the heated bed.
At 11.7V it reaches 82C. At 12V I can get it up to 88C.
I put active cooling on the
by
mappler
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Reprappers
The printer comes with a 1.75mm extruder, so you will need 1.75mm filament. I have had a lot of luck with PLA.
by
mappler
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Reprappers
Thank you for the suggestions. I will try them this evening.
My meter is a very good one, so I am confident in my resistance measurement.
I'll make sure those connections are rock solid and put some cooling on the board.
Thank you,
-Matt
by
mappler
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Reprappers
We have built a Prusa i3 from 3dPrinterCzar. I have successfully printed PLA parts, and my heated bed gets to 65C with no issues.
I am ready to try ABS, but I can't seem to get my heated bed to get hot enough. After 30 minutes, I can only get up to 82C.
I have an MK2A heated bed, connected through RAMPS 1.4 and an Arduino Mega.
I am using the included 12V power supply.
I have measured the resi
by
mappler
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Reprappers
I had a similar, but not identical, issue. For me, auto bed leveling was #defined in configuration.h, causing the homing command to operate differently.
Does 0,0,0 work only when you home each axis individually or when you home all at once?
by
mappler
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General Mendel Topics
Just finished building the Prusa i3 from 3dPrinterCzar.
On their website, they have a copy of the Marlin firmware with the proper Configuration.h file already configured for use with this printer.
I did find two errors in their configuration file, which I do not know if they have fixed yet.
1) Comment out the line:
#define ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING
2) #define MOTHERBOARD is set to 34. I beli
by
mappler
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Reprappers
We've had a whirlwind weekend of building and have printed our first objects!
The electronics portion of the assembly went very well. The children both enjoyed crimping connectors and figuring out the Arduino. My kids had worked with the Raspberry Pi, but not the Arduino, so they enjoyed learning another board.
The computer portion & calibration was another story. This is the part wher
by
mappler
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Reprappers
Problem solved: Bed Auto Leveling was turned on. This causes the behavior of the homing function to change drastically. Now that i have turned it off, homing occurs properly now.
-Matt
by
mappler
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Reprappers
Ok, I see the area in Configuration.h that causes this to occur. It is Z_SAFE_HOMING, which causes the nozzle to move to the center of the print area.
This makes sense, but my problem is more specific.
If I issue a G28 command, when it gets to the Z-axis it just hits the limit switch, and raises it up slightly. If I then issue command M114 to get current positions, it is NOT at home on the Z a
by
mappler
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Reprappers
We are building a Prusa i3, with the kit from 3dPrinterCzar. I am having an issue homing the printer. I am using Pronterface to control the printer, with Marlin firmware. If I home to each axis individually, everything works fine. If I press the All-Home button, it homes the X-Axis correctly, the Y-Axis correctly, then moves the X & Y to around 75 or 100mm each and then homes the Z-axis.
by
mappler
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Reprappers
My kids (10 & 12) and I have been building the Prusa i3 from 3dPrinterCzar. I spent a lot of time deciding on which one to buy, so I thought I would provide some initial build thoughts in case someone else is making similar decisions about building with children.
The parts came packaged extremely well. The cardboard box appeared to have a "rough" journey. However, all delicate parts wer
by
mappler
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Reprappers
Could someone point me in the right direction on information for choosing which extruder size we might want?
I've searched around and can't seem to find the answer to what I assume is a pretty basic question.
I was looking at the i3XL from DIY tech shop. It asks you to choose head filament size and head extrusion size.
I assume head extrusion size is the size of each layer we will be laying d
by
mappler
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Reprappers
I have to admit, the Delta style printers are awesome to watch in motion. They really are fascinating.
by
mappler
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General
This weekend we had the opportunity to attend a local Maker Fair. Many 3D printers were on display, many of which were MendalMax 2's or derivatives of that design. I can see why we may ultimately want an MM2. However, I think for the first version the kids build I was even more convinced the Prusa i3 is a good place to start. They are interested not just in the novelty of things, but they tru
by
mappler
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General
Ha! Who said they aren't into video games!!! This is the motivation for most of their programming learning. Everything in balance.
-Matt
by
mappler
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General
QuoteBill Clark
That's great your kids are paying attention to all that Mappler. It certainly will be part of their future. My son is 10 and I cant get him interested in whatever I am doing yet. he is deep into minecraft and learning to code so I'm letting him run with that cuz dad needs help in the code department. I was helping him with his homework tonight and was surprised they are teaching h
by
mappler
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General
I had not seen the SmartRap. We will look at that as well.
by
mappler
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General
My kids are 12 and 10.
by
mappler
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General
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Pages: 123