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Printing issues ...
Doesn't have to be perfectly centered, as long as the head/nozzle doesn't crash into bulldog clip or ran to the end of print area or crashed to the end of the axis, you should be fine, if you really do wanted it to be perfectly centered then you gotta play with the m114 and go to the max axis and check the value returned, enter that in the config.
I am trying to maximize the print volume as much
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
I'm not so sure, from the second picture looks like too high acceleration
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hmm, because the platform uses at least 3 screws , unlike the laser level thingamajiig. My printer, prusa i3 uses 4 screw for bed, the main idea of autobed leveling in marlin firmware (as I understand), will auto adjust the z axis layer height depending on the bed platform if it is tilted slightly. I still don't see the effectiveness using pendulum to auto level the bed. Sorry I might misundersto
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sarf2k4
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Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
I got same cable as this guy over here , based on the thread starter, he used smaller cable for his heated bed thus his wire can't sustain the current then melt the sleevings
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sarf2k4
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Safety & Best Practices
Well, laser aren't a bad idea but problem occurs when you're using reflective surfaces especially glass surface, might shoot the laser beam to someone's eye. Also unsure if it can detect range of reflective materials.
I was thinking of probably, having a sensor or tilt sensor or perhaps accelerometer/gyro sensor hooked onto all 4 sides of bed (this only ensures the bed are perfectly leveled, no
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sarf2k4
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Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
I'm going to use about 50-80cm actually, it was still intact as 5 meters when I measured it. I'm no good in electronic stuffs
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sarf2k4
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Safety & Best Practices
Hi, I am planning to replace my sangui with another ramps, this time with 'proper' 16awg wire. Last night I measured the resistance, it is 0.4ohm for about 5 meter in length, I plan to use it by about 60-80cm only. I am asking whether this wire is good? 5 meter at 0.4ohm? also it is a multi core flex cable, I guess silicon sleeves too
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sarf2k4
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Safety & Best Practices
Use arduino ide v1.x.x, v1.5+ don't really work on adding custom sketch, also check the correct board selection in config.h
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sarf2k4
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Printing
Ahh~~, that would be nice, I will be waiting for the results then, hopefully can be used with sangui 1.3a
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sarf2k4
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Sanguino(lolu)
I'm unsure how to get the lcd working in this board, I saw some other thread saying you need to modify the pins.h but that's what they say only
Too bad the chip somewhat bricked i guess, you could try use arduino/avrisp with the icsp port on the sangui board
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sarf2k4
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Sanguino(lolu)
Is that some kind of gcode preview on the 'preview mode' of your picture? What program?
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
I'm making this available in github to make this thing easier to be customized or adding more presets
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
Did you properly connect the controller board to the psu? Sangui will throw you errors due to not enough memory I guess and the pictures you show most likely due to not enough power to display (from 5v usb)
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sarf2k4
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Sanguino(lolu)
Would be nice if you specify these specs first
nozzle size, print layer height, print speed, wall count top/bottom, wall count sides, bed temp, nozzle temp, plastic material
These are helpful in identifying what might be causing this problem
Try lowering acceleration or your temp, don't know which temp since you didn't specify bed/hotend temp
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sarf2k4
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Printing
This one looks like maxtemp protection set in marlin, if possible, try asking a preconfigured firmware from your supplier especially its config.h, then check the maxtemp value
If it does set at 75, change that to 120 and reupload the firmware
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
You're posting at a wrong thread
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sarf2k4
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Printing
What about flow rate calibration and have you ever thought of using other slicer such as cura?
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sarf2k4
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Printing
Or perhaps you are lazy to do bed leveling procedure like mine, perfectly leveled and didn't want to mess with the bed screws anymore, I would go for 2 things, adjust the z home offset or the screw to hit z endstop.
use m206 is the home offset settings, and what I usually do before print when it's this messy/too far
1. m206 z0.05
2. m500 (store value above)
3 m501 (verify the value)
4. home
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sarf2k4
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Printing
What marlin version are you running? I'm not sure what version auto bed leveling has been implemented in marlin but newer version should have.
I would download the newer marlin version, then copy from your current config to the new one
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
Small adjustment to add a mount for tower pro sized servo mount, sg9gr type or the 9 gram type of servo, still haven't made an arm to mount the end stop for auto bed leveling, in the future I'm going to release a v3 along with the mount for inductive sensor
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
Thank you for your feedback. The x axis, true/false means that you get the option to use a nut to drive the z axis. True means you will use a nut based you can find on most normal hardware and vanilla based from the github too uses nut on its default design, if false means uses geeetech default design, uses the flange nut shipped with the kit
I'm not sure about the x carriage, so far it is okay,
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, I just stumble across this video by Josef Prusa about his cheapest auto bed leveling method by just using 4 tactile switches at all 4 corners.
What I had in mind was to put these switches underneath the bed either at the end of the screws (bottom) or besides the screws. He stated that anything above 300g would trigger the switches due to the weight also it makes the bed heavier by adding an
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sarf2k4
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Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Another build for the mount you can go would be based on my x-carriage and extruder mount that I modded/created in order to accommodate mk8 extruder. This one is my extruder mount for mk8, a place to put small servo for auto bed leveling also included, haven't created the lever for the switch yet
But the item above are only compatible with this (45mm lm8uu with geeetech screw profile) and/or
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
Basically just check your thermistor connection to the board first and check, if still mintemp error, there's definitely something wrong with the thermistor connection at the hotend part.
You could go over geeetech wiki to flash the firmware, but to be frank, most geeetech kits, probably all, has a preconfigured firmware installed to the board, basically you don't have to upload the firmware ag
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
Basically, yeah, I never compared the geeetech firmware and stock marlin but config advanced probably left untouched.
Endstops, probably better if you have a multimeter, my endstop connection is 1>signal, 3>ground/negative. Do check again after you wired it up, then send m119 to check endstop status.
Also check the cable if it's really connected
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
I don't know, I don't think they care much too though because there's a config file that will change the entire parts depending on layer height you want to print. Missing 1 side of wall are still ok, just don't exceed 2-3 else the nut will slide easily.
Or, you could try search my carriage on thingiverse, I modded the vanilla based, basically a vanilla based to have variable length of screw base
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
I just finished making a customizable geeetech based part to fit either nut or flanged nut and 45mm or 25mm lm8uu and here is the link
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quote3dkarma
I've found that layer bonding problems occur either when you're under extruding or printing too cold. If it's under-extrusion, it should be visually obvious - the layer should look like it's got holes in it. If not, try upping your print temp by 5 degrees to see if it bonds better. To test, try printing two towers side by side, upping temp by 5 degrees each time, until you get a p
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sarf2k4
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Printing