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Printing issues ...
Just to power the board, my heated bed wire doesn't have a problem so far, my other thread used wrong type of wire, solid core type to power the controller board
I guess I will buy another slightly thicker copper cable, roughly 1.5mm diameter
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sarf2k4
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Safety & Best Practices
From the looks of it under extrusion, try increase the pot current a bit too, probably the extruder motor does a lot of retraction on that layer, making it skipping steps
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
What about swapping the motor to another axis?
Also the pot current and motor temp during the run?
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
Judging from the noise it made, it seems like the rails are somewhat loose, making it vibrate
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
I stay in Malaysia, noob in electrical as I don't have background but will learn for reference before doing it for real. Actually it is for the board instead of heated bed. I've been to one store only to buy some hardwares, so their methods is either amps to run on the wire or the diameter, yet I don't know which diameter should I compare to with the awg reference, cross sectional (some reference
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sarf2k4
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Safety & Best Practices
I'm sorry, sometimes I have a hard time understanding . So, basically when all homed your nozzle would sit at outside of the print bed, and much more lower than the bed?
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sarf2k4
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General
Hi, I'm on marlin firmware but I wanted to give a try to dry run mode. Does repetier host suffice to do dry run mode?
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sarf2k4
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Repetier
Basically, what happened if the probe and endstops are wired together into a single z-min port, and during the bed leveling procedure, the endstop would be triggered?
From what I have in mind is 2,
1. set the bed higher or the endstop trigger screw lower so that either one of the end stops giving a triggered signal/value
2. put the mechanical endstops to max but this contradicts with auto bed
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sarf2k4
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General
Well, I just wanna avoid unwanted disaster due to selecting wire gauge without proper reference and knowledge. Smaller cable would give disaster. My place here don't use awg terms by the way, we use "how many amps you wanna run on that cable" term, then the cable for that requirement will be recommended, cable size may differ from awg though....
So much for the 'standards' used in this world
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sarf2k4
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Safety & Best Practices
I just found out that I can't use my multimeter to measure the wire resistance, even the supplied, stock psu to board cable shows me 0.4ohm resistance. I wonder if there's a way to measure wire resistance more accurately?
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sarf2k4
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Safety & Best Practices
You could use the configuration.h file I posted before, it is the same throughout most geeetech printers that I know of, their prusa lineage because they've been using mk8 extruder (some model are not), so I assume the motor gear has same diameter thus you can use the steps/mm, accel and some other bits you can find in the configuration.h file.
It doesn't matter whether the board is connected o
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
You could use raft like those perforated bed type printers, but you would be wasting some plastics with a benefit of 'theoretically' non-slanted object
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
What about the ftdi drivers (though I doubt this would be your problem), you could try here . Usually 3d printer kits comes with preloaded firmware. Often you don't have to worry about setting up those firmwares unless you're going experimental
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
Well, the cable is I think 1 meter length supplied with the printer kit, I turned on the printer to print rod clamp, it got me worried what if the atmega chip were bricked because pronterface unable to connect. I immediately reflashed the working firmware that were working (before I added the code above to make 12864lcd work) and it works like it before.
Mine got 1284p chip, and flashing the fi
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sarf2k4
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Sanguino(lolu)
Not much info I can get, but may I request your prusa i3 setups especially your z axis endstops, your bed leveling and your wired up z axis? I'm assuming you succeeded in wiring them in parallel (both into z-min pins)
Your topic 'endstop question' by far I only know you are attempting to let the printer correct itself when max are hit but no such feature, so you chose to force stop the printer
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sarf2k4
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General
I saw this info posted way back in time I think around 2014, posted by someone who made his own 3d printer model, probably the creator of mendel90 (I forgot). He said to extrude using this method. I did and got a good measurement. Of course, calibrate your extruder steps first
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
hahaha... nope, I don't have proper equipment nor "engineering done right" methods. I followed Tom's guide to adjust them
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
I don't use the vref method, I do it the most safest yet troublesome way. Turn everything off including usb port, turn the pot by about 1/8, then test, if it will introduce motor skip, also touch the motor if it is hot or not by roughly around 30'c I think it's okay
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, first of all, I'm unsure where to post this topic in firmware or safety or general sections because I concerned about the nozzle and bed safety as well.
I have Geeetech Prusa I3B with sanguino 1.3a board, upgraded the hot end to e3d v6, somewhat 'low-profile' extruder mount design to maximize z height. When all axis are homed the nozzle sits outside of the bed and probably lower or higher t
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sarf2k4
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General
ahh, that would be weird, what the problem might be?
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sarf2k4
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Sanguino(lolu)
When using arduino ide to flash to your board, eg ramps 1.4 and mega, the board you would pick is arduino mega 2560. one of the main reason recommended to use v1.0.x because other boards can be added without any issues.
I suggest you to try flashing the preconfigured marlin firmware found/requested from geeetech forum or you could use this config.h. Bear in mind that this one is marlin 1.0.1 (I
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
I got an error though, I commented the pragma optimize and tried to upload, below is the error I got
avrdude: verification error, first mismatch at byte 0x1f800
0x20 != 0x0c
avrdude: verification error; content mismatch
I will try again later tonight with pragma enabled.
Is there a way for me to find out the marllin version in the files?
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sarf2k4
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Sanguino(lolu)
Here is one of my idea based on my very first post, sorry for the poor sketches and the late visualizations. The colours are as follow
BLUE = Frame to fix the tactile button/switch
ORANGE = Tactile button/switch
YELLOW = printed shaft fixed beneath the bed
So, how these works also based on the video in my very first post
But I don't know how much weight the bed can hold without pressing the
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sarf2k4
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Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Ever tried prusa calculator for optimal layer height on z-axis vs lead screw?
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sarf2k4
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Printing
So the solution was this?
#ifdef U8GLIB_ST7920 //SPI GLCD 12864 ST7920 ( like ) For Melzi V2.0
#if MB(MELZI) // Added check for Melzi boards
#define LCD_PINS_RS 30 //CS chip select /SS chip slave select
#define LCD_PINS_ENABLE 29 //SID (MOSI)
#define LCD_PINS_D4 17 //SCK (CLK) clock
#define BEEPER 27 // Pin 27 is take by LED_Pin, but Melzi LED do nothing with Marlin and
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sarf2k4
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Sanguino(lolu)
folgertech 2020 i3 is so simple, I somehow liked the concept but my personal opinion says that you better add support on top to the base like i3 rework or i3 single plate build. Not to mention the z axis motor also sits on top making the head prone to wobble upon reaching higher z height probably at 150mm. But it's wide and you can fully extend the print area just by expanding its frame and mecha
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants