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Printing issues ...
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Hi all.
Need to determine ( with little electronics knowledge or understanding ) if I can replace the IRLB8743 mosfet, used for the bed heater, with a IRFZ44N mosfet ?
reason : Printer runnning fine for 2 years. Marlin on Mega with Ramps.
Tonight at end of a 3 hr print I smell hot electrics.
6 layers to go so I let it finish.
Then the graphic LCD display shows 'Err: maxtemp bed' and I see t
by
DaveOB
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General
Quoteggherbaz
Yes the problem is in the "heating unit" ..............
Thank You very much for your feedback and ideas / suggestions.
I am going to follow your advice carefully and trust my print speed will increase.
Regards
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DaveOB
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Printing
Thanks. That is what I have just learnt from a different discussion.
So here's my calculation, assuming that the vRef for the stepper driver is correct, as are the mechanics if the gears, etc.
Using a standard e3dv6 all metal hotend, I believe the max output is around 15mm^3/second.
So :
0.4 nozzle = 0.1257mm^2 x 0.32 layer height = 0.0402 mm^3. Max 15mm^3 / 0.0402 = ~370mm/s print speed
0
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DaveOB
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Printing
I just changed from 0.4 to 0.5 nozzle and layer height from 0.24 to 0.4mm for a larger printed part where quality is not an issue.
Using Arduino 2560 and Ramps board.
eSteps is 450, and filament is 1.75mm
My extruder is a Charlstruder with a gear ratio of about 1:3 ( can't count it now as the printer is running )
Trying to run at 80mm/s print speed and the extruder stepper is clicking. If I s
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DaveOB
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Printing
Once you have the settings just right, and after using it for only a few prints, you'll be wondering how you ever printed without it.
This stuff is a total game-changer for printing. I used almost exclusively ABS for over a year and every single print just stuck and it worked as it should every time.
This was the best money I ever spent for my printer.
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DaveOB
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QuoteMightyMouth
It's all about getting it dialled in, Temperature, Nozzle Height and Extrusion Settings are all important, but for me (once my printer was set up right) Printbite has been the best 3D Printing purchase I have made other than the printer itself.
I have to agree with this statement 100%
PrintBite is not a magic fix for a poorly calibrated printer, but once I had it dialed in, it
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DaveOB
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Hi Mutley3D
Personally, I am a big fan of the window cleaner option. I buy the generic 'no name brand' from our local superstore.
I do see from research that one of the most common ingredients of home made window cleaner is white vinegar.
Do you have any info about using vinegar on PrintBite ?
As it is acidic in nature, it should remove finger prints well, as long as it is safe on the PrintBi
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DaveOB
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Quotesigxcpu
I assume sanding PrintBite is a nono, right?
I am reasonably certain that any sanding is going to damage the surface of the PrintBite.
Mine has been on my printer for around 6 months and doesn't have a mark on it. This product has totally transformed my 3D printing in to a very easy 'no-hassle' experience.
Without reservation, I can say that this is by far the best 'upgrade' that
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DaveOB
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QuoteyoUmake-3d
a bucket of closet dehumidifier (5$)
The closet dehimidifier - if it is the bags with the flakes that absorb moisture that drips in to a tray or container, we found that the flakes are cheap industrial grade Calcium Chloride Flakes. Our local chemical supplier stocks them, and also the pool shops keep Calcium Chloride flakes. It is a lot cheaper than buying the closet packs from
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DaveOB
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QuoteMutley3D
Trhuster - one thing you could do if you fall just shy of optimum temp, is cover the bed with something while its heating
I found a piece of corrugated card from a packing case worked wonders on top of the bed.
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DaveOB
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If I may add my 2 cents worth here for you to consider :
I placed a sheet of cork, around 2mm thick, under the bed and heater, and added some corrugated card under that to keep the top of the cork in contact with the bottom of the heater pad.
Cork is very safe for this application and is an excellent heat insulator.
So the cork prevents you losing heat from below the bed, and effectively defle
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DaveOB
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QuoteSrek
That is a security mechanism of the firmware. The target temperature must be stable for a short time before printing starts.
Is the time or the amount of temperature drop adjustable in the config ?
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DaveOB
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Printing
OK. Have done the PID tuning.
Values were not far off what was in the configuration file already. I have updated the config file and uploaded from IDE to Arduino.
It has not affected the behavior.
When initially heating the nozzle before print starts, I set :
M109 S250
The temp increases to 250, then drops back down to 240 - 242 ( display on the graphic LCD ), and then increases again to 250
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DaveOB
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Printing
QuoteSrek
This sounds as if you never did pid tuning. Google that to get a description of what needs to be done.
Thanks Srek
I will go take a look at that. The problem I am having is only during the initial heat-up before printing starts.
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DaveOB
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Printing
Hi all
Using Marlin, and running gCode from SD card. Prusa i3 all metal hotend e3dv6
When the nozzle is heating, to say 250C, it gets to 250C, then cools to around 242C and then reheats to 250C before starting to print.
Is there a setting in Marin config or a gCode that I can use to reduce or remove the delay ?
Regards
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DaveOB
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Printing
OK. Having done a load of extra reading last night, it seems that nylon has a great ability to absorb moisture.
This, together with the fact that I am trying to print with weed-whacker line, is most likely the source of the problems that I am having ( = problems created by myself, not by PrintBite ).
I have resolved to go purchase some reputable nylon filament, and then ensure it is correctly d
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DaveOB
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Thanks Mutley.
Will give it a try in the morning and report back.
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DaveOB
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Would appreciate some advice from other users that have PrintBite and print Nylon.
Tried a Nylon test print today with a 60mm oval shape.
Prusa i3, auto bed leveling. Nozzle 245C and tried bed at both 65 and 110C, both gave same results.
Layer height 0.25mm
First layer went down perfect, just like the previous ABS print.
As soon as the second layer started, the complete oval print just peele
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DaveOB
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the version of slic3r that I am using seems to take 0% as the center of the 2 lines touching ( so 50% of each line is overlapping )
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DaveOB
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Printing
Try changing slicer config > Print Settings > Advanced > Overlap : Infill / perimeter overlap to -20% ( yes, a negative value ).
If the infill overlays the perimeter too much, then the infill sits on top of the perimeter, and the next layer builds up on top of that, and gets worse each layer.
The overlap seems to work on the center of each line so an overlap of even 0% is causing the i
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DaveOB
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QuoteTreito
However regarding ABS I am not able to get a very good stick. It seems like my fan is the right choice for PLA printing but it may be too strong for ABS and ABS does not stick very well.
As far as I know, and from all the ABS printing I have done, you should not have a fan blowing on the print for ABS.
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DaveOB
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try setting your perimeter / infill overlap to -20% ( yes, slic3r does accept a negative value )
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DaveOB
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Printing
If I may add my 2 cents worth here, I found that my perimeter lines were catching on the previous layer, even though the eSteps was calibrated correct.
It turned out to be the perimeter / infill overlap.
The value in slic3r seems to be the overlap of the 2 lines, but calculated on the center of the 2 lines.
So even with the value set to 0%, there is still an overlap. In fact, in my case, it was
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DaveOB
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I was printing ABS direct on the aluminium bed, but had to use ABS slurry. The slurry leaves discoloration and a wavy pattern like sand dunes on the bottom of the print. With the PrintBite I use no slurry and the bottom of the print is smooth like glass.
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DaveOB
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QuoteTreito
QuoteDaveOBand only release after bed cools to below 80C.
Hi Dave,
Many thanks for the answer. That is why I ordered to pieces for each printer so I can exchange the surface after a print. Unfortunately your design cannot be convert for my printers but for my Ormerod 2 I have an idea or more than one but this will be too off-topic.
I am afraid that I will not get my Printbites befor
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DaveOB
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Hi Treito
I have an i3 printer.
I do not use an optical switch. I just took the mechanical end stop micro switch with the long arm from the Z axis and put it in a drop down arm. Attached the arm to my X carriage. There is an arm on the far right of the X axis that flicks the micro switch arm upwards after the auto bed level.
The design is basically like this :
All I have to do is remember to
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DaveOB
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I got my PrintBite a week ago, so here's my opinion and experience :
I first saw mention of PrintBite on the reprap irc channel. Now we live in South Africa and I had just spent 3 days trying to track down a sheet of PEI. Please trust me when I tell you I got all the strange Mr Bean looks from everyone I asked about it - never even heard of it !
My printing on an i3 is exclusively ABS. I have b
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DaveOB
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Probably not the ideal solution, but you can also use the free Netfabb Basic to cut a model into parts and save each part separately.
As I said, not the best solution for this problem, but I have used it in the past to cut out a single item from a multi-item stl file.
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DaveOB
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Printing
QuoteJ-Max
So 110°C is a bit high, but 85°C is realy too low.
With a bed at glass transition temperature, don't cool the part too much with ABS,
or you'll experience wraping even with a proper bed temperature.
I would say cooling fans to 30-50% maximum.
So minimize bridges on your parts.
++JM
OK. I suppose different things work for different people.
I have been running 85C bed for ABS for over
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DaveOB
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110 seems a bit high. I print abs without problems at 85C bed.
But if your nozzle is hot enough to melt and extrude the abs, and you have curling up and clumping on to the nozzle, I would think that either your nozzle is too close to the bed and the abs can't get out the nozzle easily, or it is correct and the abs is not sticking to the bed.
Try dropping the temp to 85C bed and try this alterna
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DaveOB
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