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Printing issues ...
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Hi all
New to 3D print about a month ago, and soon decided that the bed would heat better, and less print problems, if I enclosed the printer in a case / cube.
So out with some 20mm square pine, made a cube with fold-up front & top, and removable sides for working on the printer if ever needed. I think the total cost was around $20.
I moved all the electronics to outside the cube, so the a
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DaveOB
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General
Got it working.
So LCD_ALERTMESSAGEPGM is only used for a last message before a kill, stop, terminate, etc.
I should have used LCD_MESSAGEPGM which displays all the messages that I want at the correct points.
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DaveOB
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General
I have a custom M-code in my firemware that manages a ParkPause sequence when the Graphical LCD button ( kill button ) is pressed, and allows for the Pause, Park, and Resume Print.
Wanting to update status on the bottom line of the LCD, and using :
LCD_ALERTMESSAGEPGM("ParkPause");
which works great and changes the bottom line of the LCD screen, but when I try to use the same call again a fe
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DaveOB
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General
I now have ParkPause working and responding as I need it.
During printing from an SD file, I can press the Graphical LCD button ( was the 'kill' button ) and that will start the ParkPause process.
Z axis lifts 5mm, X moves to 5, Y moves to 225 ( so extruder up, off to the side, and print bed forward for inspection ).
Printer then waits for the rotary encoder to be pressed to resume printing.
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DaveOB
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Developers
This question can please be ignored as I have solved the problem associated with this.
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DaveOB
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Developers
This is a question that has me confused while working on another larger code change that I am wanting to do.
Can anyone please explain the difference between plan_buffer_line and plan_set_position ?
Is the plan_buffer_line a movement that is added in to the buffer ( behind anything else already in the buffer ) and is plan_set_position an 'immediate action' move ?
I have tried using plan_set_po
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DaveOB
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Developers
OK. So I am making progress, but slow.
Stuck on an issue with moving the axis while paused.
I seem to be able to pause the printing, and then move the axis using the plan_buffer_line code below.
card.pauseSDPrint();
plan_buffer_line(ParkPausetarget, ParkPausetarget, ParkPausetarget, ParkPauselastpos, 150, active_extruder);
st_synchronize();
My issue seems to be when I press the button
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DaveOB
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Developers
OK. So I am busy changing code, but am stuck on a small issue ..
In the new PausePark function, the code remembers the current position, changes X to 0, Y to 225.
Then it waits for another button press to continue.
The ideal step to take next, I think, would be to Home the X and Y axis ( in case they were accidentally moved during the pause ), before returning to the original positions to resu
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DaveOB
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Developers
Quotetadawson
I don't know about you guys, but I find that an emergency stop is a lot of things, but useless isn't one of them . . . And I'd rather have it that some other function that could more easily implemented as a macro in Pronterface . . . such as filament load and unload . . .
- Tim
Hi Tim
I hear your point, but my printer runs from the SD card on the graphical LCD unit, and is not co
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DaveOB
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Developers
QuoteAquaticsLive
Sounds like a great use for that otherwise useless button. Any luck yet?
Have not got round to trying it yet - should do over the weekend and will report back here.
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DaveOB
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Developers
Quoteallempty
This may have solved my problem....
I am assuming that you're referring to the acetone drops and rubbing the puck method. If so, am glad it helped.
I am finding the residue that lifts off with the print is almost non-existant when using the puck ( also using an aluminium bed ).
Now try the same prints but lower bed temperature to 85 C. I have never had a print lift with this, and
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DaveOB
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Printing
Quotetadawson
Were it me, I would define a new pinning and function - IE FILSWAP_PIN or some such, map that to pin 41 in pins.h, and then clone and rename the kill function, and then could do either, were I to decide to add another switch . . . The connection between the switch and the function is soft, so why bugger up good existing code?
IE:
pins.h:
#if defined(REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLL
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DaveOB
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Developers
Quotetadawson
That's not actually correct. It grounds the line errantly labelled as reset on the LCD schematic, but that line is wired to pin 41 on RAMPS, which is mapped in pins.h to whatever you want (default is KILL_PIN, IIRC), or can be disabled outright. It is *NOT* a dedicated reset line . . .
- Tim
Thank You Tim
If I have traced this correctly, then the Graphical LCD Button press is pas
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DaveOB
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Developers
Quoteallempty
Yes I print at a bed temp of 118 degrees C and don't have distortion problems when the bed was cooler. I also don't use fans to cool the part as it's being printed. The more consistant the temperature the better.
My parts come free ok once the bed has cooled, as you say below 50 degrees C. I have wondered if I had damaged the surface with scratches from a stanly blade I use to cl
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DaveOB
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Printing
QuoteDust
The circuit shows it just grounds the cpu reset line. Ie hardware reset. Wich on power on will turn off heated bed and hotend etc.
Ie I dont think it works how you think it does.
Many Thanks for that link. Now that makes sense.
I suppose next I should look to see if any of the Arduino pins are unused by the Ramps board or the LCD display, and then I can add a seperate button ( or but
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DaveOB
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Developers
Quoteallempty
Tried to attach this photo to my previous posting but fialed, smaller file now.
This is not something on the surface, but the surface has been pulled away.
Is the bed heated when you print ?
I use an aluminium bed, and the prints are very well stuck ( would need chisel or sharpened paint scraper and a very sharp knock to get print off bed ) at print temperature ( 85 degrees C ) b
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DaveOB
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Printing
Quotethetazzbot
Try this method that I found on youtube.
Start with clean glass. Alcohol or windex.
Pour a little acetone on the glass.
Natural white abs is preferred, but grab a failed print and just rub it on the glass all around with the acetone. It will coat the glass with abs juice.
No need to keep a jar of juice. It doesn't keep anyway, and the acetone evaps.
I can agree with that.
J
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DaveOB
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Printing
Hi David
You'll find the calibration guide here :
http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration
Personally, after I got the correct feed number, I just added it in to the gcode that is automatically added by Slic3r before the print is sliced :
In my case, I use :
Repetier > Slicer > Config > Printer Settings > Costom G-code > Start G-code :
G28 ; home all axes
G1 Z6 F5000 ; lift nozzle
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DaveOB
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Printing
Can someone please point me to the place to change code in Marlin for the reset button of the RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller.
I assume it is somewhere in the file dogm_lcd_implementation.h
or where the comms from the LCD are handled by Marlin_main.cpp or ultralcd.cpp ?
From what I understand, the current function of the button is to kill the heaters, motors and execution of the gc
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DaveOB
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Developers
Improvement with PC calculated Estimated Print Time on Windows PC.
Sorry if this is starting to look like a personal blog where I'm talking to myself, but I think if it took me so long to find all this, it must be able to help someone else down the line.
So following up on my earlier idea of somehow using the Estimated Printing Time that is displayed in Repetier ( after the slicing is done ) as
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DaveOB
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General
Hi.
Noobie here.
Is 'ABS Juice' and Slurry the same thing ? -- the homemake bottle of acertone with bits of ABS dissolved in it ?
If so, I found a great alternate method for this, and have been using it for 2 weeks without a single print lifting, and with minimum mess. Also no color change on the bottom of the print from the slurry.
It is so simple a solution - using each color of filament th
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DaveOB
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Printing
I think it is also worth mentioning here that the Estimated Time Remaining ( ETR ) is exactly that - Estimated.
If you use the Print Lines Completed method, or the Filament Used method, both methods rely on using the current printed value, compared to the total overall expected value.
Therefore, the more data you have printed, the more accurate your ETR will be.
Here's an example :
I am print
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DaveOB
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General
OK. Detailed the changes in this post :
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DaveOB
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General
Please Note : there has been an update and addition to the code in this post. Please see post #3 below for the most recent improvements. All code in this post is also in post #3.
OK. So I'm new to the 3D printers, and assembled a Prusa i3 kit just 2 weeks ago.
After a few test prints and getting comfortable, I moved it in to a wooden cube frame with plastic covering, and shipped it to out patio
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DaveOB
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General
Thanks to all for the input.
I have redesigned how I am addressing this problem, and now have a working solution.
As suggested by dc42, I have also added a calculation for the filament usage to estimate the time remaining, as well as a calc based on the print lines.
However, the parsing of the SD file is not viable. It just takes too long ( that's why I wanted the refresh of the LCD screen ) w
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DaveOB
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General
This requirement no longer exists.
I have had a re-look at the problem, and decided to attack this problem from a different angle.
I have a complete working solution and am busy with the last final test. Once that is done, I will create a new post with a step by step of what I did, and how it works.
If you want to get the Layer number and the estimated time remaining to display on your graphic
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DaveOB
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General
Help please
I just can not find a way to get the graphical LCD to update or refresh after it detects an M23 command from the LCD menu, before I start parsing the SD file for a custom mod to count the layers and print lines in the gcode file.
After I press the encoder button to select the SD card file, the top half of the graphical LCD goes blank, and remains like that until the parsing of the s
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DaveOB
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General
Quoteatunguyd
No you will need to count positive and negative Z moves then, remember the retractions are a up and then down, so I guess if you sum up the Z moves and add them algebraically you will have the total number of layers. This however becomes difficult with gcode that is absolute as opposed to relative because a retraction would be a z move to say 6.8mm then a Z move to 6.7mm. A relative
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DaveOB
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General
Thanks atunguyd
You are correct in your understanding of the method I have started using.
I suppose that it would be just as easy to count only positive Z moves, or as you suggest Current-Z vs total height.
It should be easy to customise as I have just about finalized my code and almost ready to start compiling a step-by-step list of the mods that I made.
But first I need to figure out how to
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DaveOB
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General
Hi dc42
The code isn't perfect, but it givs me enough of an indication.
As an example, I sliced a Marvin keychain model that had 75 layers and the gCode file contains 27226 lines of print code.
Slicer said the job should take 34 minutes
My code said :
At layer 22 after 10 minutes, estimated remaining was 19 minutes = total 29 minutes
At layer 27 after 12 minutes, estimated remaining was 18 mi
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DaveOB
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General
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