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Printing issues ...
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Quotedeaconfrost
I can wire up a 12v relay to D8 to drive the bed that's not a problem. But what components should I get to build it that way? I don't really mind running a single high power 12v psu either. They have come down in price a lot these days, I remember the days I use to pay 150+ for the pc's psu to run 4 hdds, sli and what not on a 1kw plus psu. I don't think I would need that kind of
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DaveOB
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General
If you're using slicer, check the 'infill/perimeters overlap' setting ( Print Settings > Advanced ).
Default is 15%
Change to -10% ( yes, Minus )
I found it calculates the overlap based on the centerline of the line of plastic, so anything greater than about -10% causes the infill to be deposited on top of the perimeter line, so it can't get down to the height it should be, and next laye
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DaveOB
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General
I just had a very similar problem with banding on an i3 kit this week.
I did this to solve it :
1. check the wobble of the X carriage that the extruder is bolted to. I found slight play in the linear bearings and that was causing 75% of my wobble. I replaced the linear bearings with self-printed bearings ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24990 )
2. check the bearing on the Y axis under the be
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DaveOB
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Printing
Hi Mike
I run my abs at 255C and bed 85C
I also found that if the abs is too cool, it will not adhere well.
Another idea I use for prints with a small contact area on the bed, or for large prints where cooling could case a warp :
make yourself an stl file for a 20 x 20 mm 'base pad', 0.25mm think ( or whatever thickness you print your first layer ). Then when you position your print in Repetie
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DaveOB
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Printing
Quoteatunguyd
Hi Dave, have you considered submitting these code changes to the Marlin GitHUB? I think it would be a good idea to pass it on to them.
Hi.
Yes, although I wouldn't have a clue about how to do it, someone else did post about it with a link back to here on this page :
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/MarlinDev/issues/58
and I see it is also listed on :
https://github.com/MarlinFi
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DaveOB
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Developers
OK. Here's another idea that may well be considered as a 'new' print surface. This is now my first choice for all my ABS prints for the last 2 days.
( copied from my post on 3Dhubs )
I tested this idea and the results seemed to be ideal. I would be interested to know if anyone else had experienced this.
I printed an ABS part, +50 layers, 85C bed, and no lifting on the corners - and it was clea
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DaveOB
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General
Hi Eugen360
Very glad to hear you got it working.
I suppose that everyone reading the previous posts must have assumed that you would have checked the pin diagram that you had for the driver board against the Ramps board drawing to ensure that you had it installed the correct way.
Happy Printing.
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DaveOB
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QuoteRRuser
Is this pause/resume function working for everyone? Seems a perfect use for that button.
Hi
Is working perfectly in my printer and I have used it a few times. Have not seen any feedback if anyone else has tried it. As tadawson says, you could also add another seperate button and assign the code to a different pin number. You would then only need to modify the above code to watch the
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DaveOB
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Developers
Quoteelwood127
Talked to a guy that prints directly on aluminum plate using a very diluted abs juice applied with a chicks square facial pad thingy. I'm going to try it. Glass and tape are a pain not to mention the weight.
I use the ABS Puck method on my aluminium plate. Plate temp 85C and never had a problem. Advantage with the puck is that the 'juice' you create is the same color as the filame
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DaveOB
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General
My stepper motor connectors are also red-blue-green-black ( order 2B, 2A, 1A, 1B ) , and my understand is that if you plug it in the wrong way round, it will just change the direction of the motor.
I do not see any obvious link between your 2 images - the first is the stepper driver board, and the second the Ramps board - unless you have inserted the stepper board the wrong way round on the ram
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DaveOB
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General
Sounds like you are on the right path.
Did you check if there was any different ( higher ) voltage on the stepper pins when you tried to home the axis in Repetier ? I would imagine that there should be 12V going to the steppers when the code is trying to run them. If there is, then it would indicate a motor problem, but I am highly doubtful that you have 4 faulty steppers. Also wondering if the
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DaveOB
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General
Try the ABS Puck method - so much easier and it can be the same color as your filament.
using each color of filament that you have, you print a small puck, about 40mm diameter.
When you want to print, make sure the bed is clean, drop a few drops of acetone on the bed ( I have a syringe full of clean acetone stored in a glass jar ) and then rub the puck over the acetone. The concentration of ABS
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DaveOB
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General
You might also find this page of interest :
https://www.reddit.com/r/Reprap/comments/27ah1e/is_my_ramps_board_fried/
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DaveOB
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General
Sorry, but I am not familiar with the Ramps Test Code.
Looks like you are going to need to troubleshoot this step by step, but I am not experienced enough to help you with that.
My logic tells me that if your Mega will not run without the USB, then it is not getting power from the ramps board.
If the Mega is resetting repeatedly, is there an SD card in the slot ? remove it and see if that affe
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DaveOB
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General
Hi
You were asked a a few questions that you did not reply to :
What voltage ( DC or AC ? ) are you feeding the Arduino via the Ramps board.
Which pins are your input power connected to on the Ramps board ?
The fact that you are not getting anything on the LCD without the USB connected, seems to indicate that you may have missed the 2 sets of power inputs ( as mentioned above ) or the Arduino
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DaveOB
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Quoteeugen360
You have to trust me on this: I did not modified the wire connections or anything else, I've only added a fan to cool down the Arduino !!! Now it's stable!
I can now connect the printer to Pronterface or Repetier, the bed is warming up also the hotend but some problems still remain... motors not work. I have to mention that I use optical end-stops and Pronterface says that X, Y or Z
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DaveOB
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QuoteMontiey
Just be sure to understand that increasing voltage from 12 to 24v will not double the amperage drawn. A bed designed for 24v will not need to draw as much because it takes advantage of the higher voltage to do the work.
That is perfectly correct Montiey. If you are powering, for example, a heated print bed that is designed to use 200W, then increasing the supply voltage from 12V to
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DaveOB
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Printing
Quotemuntahunta
thanks
its more the type of wire tbh. im not sure on what kind I need (im not an electronics type of bloke yet )
You can google for wire gauge.
My understanding is that to drive something like a bed heater, requires a certain Wattage.
Lets say, for example, the bed heater is 200 watts.
So if your supply is 12V, take 200W / 12V = 16.6 amps
If your supply was 24V, take 200W /
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DaveOB
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Printing
For the Ramps connections, I found this page helpful :
http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS1.4
and especially thid pic :
http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Rampswire14.svg
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DaveOB
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Printing
In Repetier, go to Config > Printer and check the com port number and the baud rate - it must match the baud rate that you have set in the config of the Marlin code.
Try removing the SD card. Maybe the SD card is badly formatted or not compatible with the code, and it keeps rebooting.
I know that my LCD resets if I insert or remove an SD card - maybe yours is thinking it is doing that all th
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DaveOB
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General
maybe worth your while to go look at the Arduino forum to search for Drivers Installation and find how to install the drivers correctly.
Or try plug the Arduino into a different PC and see if it downloads and installs drivers.
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DaveOB
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Printing
Hi
Why will it not connect ? Driver ? bootloader ? usb broken ?
Have you tried a different PC / USB cable, etc ?
If the bootloader is damaged but you can see the port connected from within the Arduino IDE, you should be able to reflash the bootloader.
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DaveOB
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Printing
Use play-dough or something similar to hold pieces in position while the ABS 'sets'
Melting is very fast. I usually position the 2 parts together, then add a drop of acetone with a syringe - it tends to flow into small gaps quite well.
I find that the ABS tends to set quite well within about 30 minutes, and fully hardened in a few hours. Run some tests with old reject parts - sounds like you ma
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DaveOB
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Printing
Are you printing this in ABS ?
If so, you can split the print into different sections, rotate each part to get the best strength for each part, and then join the final parts together with acetone. It really does stick really really well.
You can add a small pin / hole where the parts join to make alignment for glueing easier.
On the same note, I also found that ABS sticks very easily to good o
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DaveOB
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Printing
Why don't you start back at the beginning and remove all of the variables that could be causing the issue.
My suggestion :
( make sure you have a backup of your Marlin code before you start )
1. unplug everything from the Mega
2. remove the power supply from the Mega
3. remove the Ramps board
4. remove everything from the Mega
5. remove everything from the Mega
6. remove everything from the Me
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DaveOB
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General
As an absolute beginners guess, I would think that something moved during the print - like the belt gear on the Y axis motor had slipped ? Check the grub-screws on the belt pully.
Also using an i3 and on my design there was no support at the top of the Z axis - in my case a vertical standing aluminium plate. I printed small brackets to keep the printer in the same place in my print box, and adde
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DaveOB
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Printing
I am a beginner with 3D, but my understanding is that if you are needing pwm for the fan, then you would use the servo pins, as these are connected to pwm pins on the Arduino.
If you just need on / 0ff then you could use Aux 1. I am using the D57 pin on Aux1 to control an LED light when print is running, and turns off when print is completed.
If you are using Marlin, you would need something li
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DaveOB
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QuoteElmoC
Just to be sure, these are the values encoded in the device's ROM? So anyone wanting to add this feature in will have to determine the code and replace these values.
Hi ElmoC
That is correct as stated in the comments in the code :
// NOTE : the 3 Device Address values are specific to MY sensors. You will need to get the correct addresses for each of your sensors.
// See this page f
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DaveOB
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General
OK. Solved, tested and working as far as I can tell.
Temperature Sensor Modifications
This is the detail of the mods I made to my Marlin firmware to add temperature sensors to my printers case, and show the temperature readings on my Graphical LCD screen.
There is a photo of the LCD screen in the post above this.
Disclaimer : as with everything I post, this was done entirely for my own use, a
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DaveOB
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General
QuotePaul Wanamaker
I'm sure others would be interested in the temp monitoring code as well. Please post it here if you want!
Hi Paul.
I have just solved the last hurdle. I was finding that using the DallasTemperature library, the method that it returns the temp value is ' request, wait, read ' and this can take up to 750ms that the rest of the main loop stops responding.
I have since found t
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DaveOB
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General
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