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Printing issues ...
These are just my opinions from looking at the pictures.
That 2nd 2in1 looks better form being smaller but i would guess its got the same characteristics.
by
MCcarman
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General
A thought.
The 2 x axis guide rods are not vertically aligned at the X max end? This causes the carriage to rotate about the x axis so the sensor hanging out the back goes lower.
The other thought i have is related to misaligned Y guide rods. Is the bed supported on 3 bearings? Which side has the 2 bearings. I can't work this out in my head sorry.
by
MCcarman
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Prusa i3 and variants
I would think you will have a problem corelating the operating temperature correctly.
The thermistor looks like its positioned close to the heater so it probably reports similarly to a normal hot end. However the block has 4 times the surface area so is probably loosing a massive amount of energy so the brass nozzle is probably a lot cooler than normal.
Im assuming this is a cross drilled block
by
MCcarman
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General
Have you checked the thermistor spec against the pull up resistor (on the controller ?) and the config file for the firmware.
Found this link
Regards
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Don't know your specific board but there is a resistor associated with the thermistor (can't remember if its in parallel or series). On many controllers (if not all) its on the controller board. Its a small detail that is not always listed or noticed. If you have the wrong resistor (i think there are only 2 values, 10K or 4.7K ?) the board reads the wrong temperature. Might be worth checking.
by
MCcarman
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General
Went back and reread your earlier posts. I didn't realis you were using bang - bang only on the bed.
I still think this is a temperature effect so it may be worth looking at the PID settings.
What temperature are you printing at?
I don't know the details on how the firmware runs the PID test but anything that interacts achieving temperature near the target can screw the PID calculation. For insta
by
MCcarman
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General
Looks like a shrinkage effect to me.
If it was it would be affected by temperature variation - you think nothing has changed there. Note that cooling fan influence may be more relevant to bang - bang so changing the cooling fan settings may have an influence.
Layer print time. It is on the small cube but may not be the same on larger objects. Hmmm - cooling fan on for small layers ?
Infill effect
by
MCcarman
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General
For the OP.
Was the print cooling fan running? Could be cooling the nozzle.
Not sure what happens when the printer stops - may still have the cooling fan running which would cool the hot end quickly.
Raiders issue going hot would suggest an electrical issue. Can you give a better description of the issue and sequence of events?
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Its not very clear from the pictures.
What is the section of the part? If its thin walled or your material is semi transparent then this may be related to material/wall thickness. If so you could be very sensitive to factors that affect the material flow such as temperature, filament diameter and very small changes in z height (localized deformation in the z screws).
Is it repeatable? Z screws wo
by
MCcarman
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Printing
DLC obviously knows PETg so we must respect his information. If he says your reported temperature is high but your tests show you can't reduce the temperature it does align with the suggestion that the thermistor is reading higher than the nozzle temperature. So it would be interesting to increase the temperature on the basis that your nozzle is actually at the bottom of the temperature range. Ho
by
MCcarman
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Printing
The orange items in the pictures are quite low so i wouldn't expect a Z drive issue or it would show up on taller object such as your test items. .
Im not familiar with this hot end but if looking for issues I could suggest thermal expansion of the supports would change the Z height of the nozzle. Exacerbated by the high temperatures you are using. I have no evidence to suggest this is an issue.
by
MCcarman
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Printing
What hot end? Temperatures? Speeds etc? Cooling fan settings?
What material? In the second post you mention PETg so is that what you are printing?
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Many people have issues with PLA clogging. It is often related to the heat transfer up the filament so getting a good print temperature is important.
There's history here of people printing PLA between 180 and 220C. We don't know the accuracy of your temperature reading but try and keep the temperature as low as possible.
Good move to keep the hot end fan powered continuously.
If you find the re
by
MCcarman
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Printing
A picture of the hot end would be appreciated.
We need a lot more information to narrow down the possibilities.
Direct feed or Bowden?
Material ?
Hot end type.
Setting for temperature, retraction, etc.
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Hard to make sense of those test results.
Your bed Z offset should be negative. I just mention this as we all assume it is and just write the number. But it would go some way to explaining your issues.
An offset of 0.025 seems very low. The paper test is usually some where between - 0.15 and - 0.25. Don't know how you are measuring 0.025 but that doesn't give much margin for variability with temp
by
MCcarman
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Printing
I think Sreks point is still valid.
PLA does have the issue with heat creep and you are using 230 temp which is at the hot end for PLA. Some are down at 180C.
I would try extruding at lower temperatures. You can do this directly without a print. When you get to a lower temp that it strugles with then go up about 20C.
Also check any retraction settings. Retracting hot PLA is another potential prob
by
MCcarman
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General
Looks like the connector between the Z motors and the Z lead screws needs to aligned. Your lead screws are bigger than the motor shafts so may have selected the connector based on that size. If you have the same size hole (must be large to suit the lead screw) when you clamp the motor shaft it will be off centre. This will displace the lead screw in X and Y as it rotates. Seems to be your problem
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Might be worth swaping the x and y motors just to check its not the motor.
Its not clear if the issue is due to z changes or X travel. Might be an idea to print a large triangle - just a few layers. Then check the angles so you can see if its a creep in displacement related to x distance (that will increase as it prints the tringle).
May be worth noting the print direction. If it it always prints
by
MCcarman
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Printing
I am no expert so do take note of those who know more than me. (Especially DD)
Is the hot end block upside down ?
I see pictures with it the other way up. Which puts the heater nearer the nozzle and with a more direct heat path.
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Im not familliar with the E3D so happy to be contradicted but:-
Looks like your throat is not in contact with the nozzle. As evident by the rim around your filament in the first picture.
In general i would recomend the nozzle needs to be as far into the hot end as possible and touching the throat.
The heater is heating the block and the heat needs to conduct to the nozzle tip. So you need the max
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Looks worse in one direction than the other.
Check there is no binding in bearings, or play. Make sure the extruder is square to the bed (or it can catch in one direction) Make sure the drive belts are horizontal (or they can try and tip over the extruder). Ensure the extruder is tight to the cariage.
Fan airflow can afect the printing in certain directions.
IMHO, Your temperature looks high.
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Using a 3mm hot end with 1.75 filament ?
No PTFE insert fitted ? but its an all metal so no PTFE required.
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Sorry but its not clear what your issue is.
Is the issue the layer near the top of the Left block in picture ....35 ? The other blocks show infill so did they not finish printing ?
If the problem is when it prints the full layer at the top it could be related to shrinkage. That may be dependant on several factors but you could try printing at lower temperature. I have printed ABS from 215 to 230
by
MCcarman
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Prusa i3 and variants
What nozzle size and layer height are you using. layer height is recomended to be less than 70% of nozzle diameter.
What gap are you leveling the bed at and what did you put in the offset parameter in the slicer. Do your settings intend to over extrude on the 1st layer.
Its possible you are under extruding in general but an inaccuracy in the 1st layer printing/settings compensates on the 1st few
by
MCcarman
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Printing
I was assuming these walls were infill but now i see that is wrong.
Looks like its printing the diagonals in one direction as a complete run, then the other diagonal is a series of small walls. Is the model homogeniouse or is this due to the slicer pathway mapping?
It could be that the STL doesn't have the walls joined together. In this case you only have a single wall thickness so its up to the
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Reminds me of some of the benchy pictures we used to see.
Im observing that the good bits are where the outside tends to be vertical. May be its due to the wall thickness. How many peripheries are you printing? What extrusion width? What infill?
It does seem like this occurs with certain geometries so i do wonder if theres some complex combination of dimensions that gives the controller/motor is
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Any progress on this issue?
I read that PLA has issues with heat creep and expansion. 220C seems high to me for PLA. Bowden extruder so typically you will have a couple of mm retraction set. Probably all adding to the problem.
A workaround may be to put in the end code after the heaters are turned off and homed away from the print, extrude a couple of mm filament. This will push the hot filament
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Think we need some more clues.
What way up and directions for the printed part. I assume its wavy in the Z axis, is the error in both x and Y or just one direction.
Often its hardware related and particularly the z axis constraints. So look for off centre leadscrews, over constrained lead screws (the guid rods are the guides not the lead screws), dodgy bearings etc.
by
MCcarman
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General
Do you have the extrusion width set to a fixed value carried over from your old nozle?
Should be on Auto or something over 0.8 like 0.81.
by
MCcarman
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Prusa i3 and variants
Can some one comment if Jerk settings can cause this.
Since this and accel are in the firmware that would explain the working Gcode. Also having compiled the firmware for the update you may have "inherited" some values.
by
MCcarman
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Printing