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Printing issues ...
PLA is bio plastic, meaning its basically modified corn starch. If its wet or damp it will decompose, slowly
Give PETG a try, its a little more tricky but when you get the hang of it you may never look at PLA again....
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
Quotewhosrdaddy
Maybe you have greasy fingerprints on the tape?
I always clean the tape after a print with hot water or isopropyl alcohol and microfiber cloth.
good point, always give a wipe with alcohol between prints!
step one, heat bed a bit.
step two, wipe with isopropyl alcohol.
step three, do some printing.
every time
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
ok, I still think first thing to look at is calibration.
Did you follow a calibration guide? print a cube and measure the sides to make sure things are sized right?
what are you using for a slicer?
fyi marlin 1.1.6 lists the Azteeg X1 in the boards.h 1.18 does not but you should still be able to get up to 1.16
You would likely have to go thru the whole gambit of endstops motor direction disp
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
I had good results in summer with ABS then all of a sudden it went for shit.
Turned out the seasonal relative humidity change was all it took.. I could compensate by turning the heat way up in the room, or have a chamber heater would work too.
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
PLA should have some squish into the bed, this really cant be just measured. You have to observe the squish as the first layer gets put down it takes a bit of trial and error to get the initial Z distance to the nozzle right.
With PEI you should be able to heat around 50c and squish a first layer on quite nicely, even the 'fake' PEI sheets will work but may need more heat and clean the sheet wit
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
First bit of advise, stop with the all metal hotend, that's most likely whats holding you back.
All metal heatbreaks are designed for high temp filaments, higher than ABS, talking like nylon etc think 250c or higher.
Below that they can be a detriment, especially with stringy filaments. By going with the heat brake type that runs the PTFE tube all the way down to the tip your much less likely
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
I print PETG directly on PEI and find it works quite well.
A few tricks to keep in mind.
1) dont get the bed too hot, you will find PLA temps are likely close, a little hotter tho, too hot and it will stick too well.
2) DONT squish it into the PEI!!!!!!!!!! use a hot first layer and lay it on top, no squish, I use 240c first layer with the bed at 55c then drop to 220c for printing layers.
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
Not sure why you might ask about x/y calibration when your issue seems to be on the Z axis...
Maybe Z calibration would be a better thing to look at....
Still as o Lampe has said, for assistance we should know something about your system.
there are so many types and ways to layout a 3d printer its stunning.... You said this is a home built.. so you should have some idea how many things we migh
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
It is possible to print ABS without an enclosure, I have done it in the summer when the weather is really hot out.
I don't know where you live, but if you can keep the temp around your printer above say around 25c you should be able to make some ok prints with ABS if they are small enough to avoid shrinkage issues.
IMO, stop....... You need an enclosure. As soon as you get going with a larg
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
looks like you have other problems to deal with, but 245 looks best there.
What is the air temp in your enclosure? Were you running your print fan?
what speed were you printing at?
have you calibrated your extrusion, I see some blobs here and there that could be over extruding....
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
Thanx DC42, I will take a look over there
by
JustSumGuy
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Duet
I have a smaller bed than my printer is capable of working with.
My printer I am setting up with Duet is a Core X/Y 300x300 Hyper Cube Evolution. My bed is 220x by 275y
This is my first experience with Duet, I don't get a lot of time to focus on it so i have had the Duet communicating and testing for months now.
I have yet to print with it tho
Its also my first setup with a Z-Probe, by current
by
JustSumGuy
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Duet
Quoteo_lampe
I made my own liitle enclosure by printing a 2 perimeters thick skirt around the part. The skirt requires a very good print surface, like the ( fake? ) PEI sheet I tested. I can't guarantee, bigger ABS parts won't crack, but the temp inside the skirt was high enough; I had to use 30% part-cooling to keep the part from softening.
Neat idea! There is one I intend to give a try!
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
Quotenukes88
My printer is a i3 style and not in an enclosure could that be the problem it prints pla fine
ABS shrinks alot, to control this there are several rules.
First rule, NO FAN there are times when you can use your print fan but its really just when bridging.
Second rule, enclosure!!! Heated is better... you should have your ambient air temp around your print around 60c
your pic shows
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
If you setup an Rpi with octoprint, password protect this implementation as your print server, plug your printer via USB to this print server then only those that know the octoprint password will be able to access it.
Then on your selected one computer on that subnet, open the browser of your choice to the IP address of the Rpi and give it the OctoPrint password but tell it to remember the passw
by
JustSumGuy
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Firmware - Marlin
Ahh I see then, Thanx DC42
So just as a test if I understand it:
set the tool offset via G10 then just switch them up something like this:
G10 P1 X20 Y0 Z0 (tool #2 is 20mm from Tool #0 on X with xero offset from y axis or z axis)
G28 (home all axis)
T0 (set tool 0)
G1 X100 Y20 (move head on X axis 100mm and Y axis 20mm)
G1 E10 (push 10mm on extruder #0 as set by ??)
G1 Z10 (drop bed 10mm)
by
JustSumGuy
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Duet
switching tools is basic actually, don't hold me to this but if you look up M108 it should have all you need.
I think its just a matter of saying:
M108 T1 (use tool #1)
M108 T2 (use tool #2)
nope not 108
I am not sure I think DC42 will have to give you more info, I cant find it in this doc:
but essentially it should be a simple command to switch tools.
G10 sets tool offset I found tha
by
JustSumGuy
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Duet
I see the gcode file as the print job itself not as a macro to be run within the print job.
Do you need this to run in a loop until interrupted?
Or as a start-run-finish type job....
This is somewhat interesting to me, I did a little looking and found that conditional logic can be applied to gcode.
I did not know you could do that
Question are you familiar with 3d printing or are you just
by
JustSumGuy
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Duet
Quotepapilio
Yes indeed -- as soon as I made the change, I started seeing 2 fans on the LCD controller. I'd say make the change, Dust knows his stuff.
Yes he does
I don't have dual hotend, I was just curious.
The only reason I would like dual fan would be to control my heat brake cooler based on temp, noisy thing when the printer is just idling....
by
JustSumGuy
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Firmware - Marlin
Instead of moving the target material wouldn't it be easier to move the syringes?
mount the two syringes side by side on the carriage just like the hotend would be on standard printer, the duet would be programed for this offset.
The carriage would then move on x/y to each target and perform its duties, syringe one squeeze, then #2 and then move to another target.
Put the Z movement on the bed
by
JustSumGuy
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Duet
I use:
"#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB"
on my MKS Gen 1.4 but that said I only have one hotend.
With:
"#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MKS_GEN_L"
Will all functions become available? Dual fan via fan extender, dual hotend?
Just curious as my setup works perfectly as is...
by
JustSumGuy
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Firmware - Marlin
Should maybe ask this in the marlin group btw, I don't know if roxy or other marlin dev's that surf that group look at this one.
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
show us your current full configuration.h file plz.
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
As Dust and O_Lamp have said, the display is likely not your issue at all.
You need to work out your endstops, motor directions etc and get each axis to home properly before you can look at your display.
Connect to a PC and use pronterface or as you have stated your on Repetier Host that and work on your setup, if your display does not work, deal with it after all your movement issues are in or
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
While I don't know exactly why, purging all SSID and rebuilding the one I needed did fix the issue of failed connections.
Back to all working well now thanx
by
JustSumGuy
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Duet
I have to read more carefully, I dont know how I missed that....
Thanx
by
JustSumGuy
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Duet
Hi, I had to reset my WAP because after a power fail it lost all settings and now I cannot connect...
Before you blame the WAP everything else connects to it fine I am sure its working A1
so I used M588 to remove all old SSID from the Duet, no problem, then I tried to setup a new one, but I fudged up a little in Puttty I think and backspaced as I did part of the m587 s"ssid" p"password" bit...
by
JustSumGuy
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Duet
My current printer has alot of learning on it if you get me....
2mm PEI sheet that was put on cold... I think that is the reason its all cracked up
My new HEVO build will have a .8mm sheet of PEI put on hot.....
attached is a pic...
but like I said, it does not affect the print... The cracks are just visual.... for effect
by
JustSumGuy
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Printing
Thanx for the info guys, I was not able to track down a diode so I decided to plug it in and give it a go.
All worked fine!! used the +5v and gnd connectors from the paneldue connector and just ran the black signal wire to the Z Probe in pin...
Added M558 I1 to the start up and boom, everything just worked!!
Thanx again!
by
JustSumGuy
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Duet