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This explains it all really:
I ditched my capacitive sensor as had two of them fail, I suspect due to heat. Now using an Aus3D IR sensor but not completely happy with the way it responds to glass. Now thinking about a BLTouch sensor.
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JBFUK
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General
Thanks it does look like M221 will do it. I will test for temperature first (manual Gcode edits) and then if successful with the multiplier. This is mainly for fine tuning with a new spool of filament. I find particularly that different colours of PETG (which I use exclusively now) can require quite different temp and multiplier settings. If I get myself setup with a couple of G-code files to
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JBFUK
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Slic3r
So it looks like this is possible via modifier meshes. I'm reading up on it now:
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JBFUK
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Slic3r
Thanks for the reply. Any idea whether it would be possible to do the same for the extrusion multiplier?
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JBFUK
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Slic3r
I've been watching various youtube videos, both relating to printing specific parts and also new filament calibration.
The demonstrations I've seen have been using both Simplify3D and Cura. In both instances it seems the operator is able to specify various Z-bands and set different temperatures or change other settings. So for filament calibration one person showed how he would print a 1 perim
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JBFUK
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Slic3r
My LJC18A3-H-Z/BX has started to let me down. First of all I've been finding the results inconsistent. If I go to one part of the bed, home Z then manually move the probe down until my nozzle is 0.1mm above the glass I get a different result to that on another part of the bed - sometimes as much as 0.3-0.4mm which makes it hard to find a decent z-offset and leads to failed prints due to the firs
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JBFUK
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General
Layer height is 0.2mm with first layer of 0.3mm. I know it's tempting to put those two together and come to the conclusion that's where the 0.5mm comes from but that doesn't make sense. I'd expect it to be 0.1mm too tall if this was the issue wouldn't you? Why would it add another 0.2mm layer if it had already overshot the target height? Appreciate this could be the cause (e.g. could be a sli
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JBFUK
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Prusa i3 and variants
That's good thinking but unfortunately two of the prints were single perimeter shells so no solid layers at all. Also I suspect I'm under-extruding based on testing and plan to bump up my E-steps buy a few clicks.
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JBFUK
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Prusa i3 and variants
Probably just buy new ones, they are very cheap if you buy from HK/China on eBay. If you can salvage the existing ones in the meantime then bonus you have a spare.
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JBFUK
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hi all,
I've been trying to tune my i3 and I'm pretty much there. Extrusion is on the whole good and when I print test pieces the X/Y are spot on. One issue I'm having and don't really know how to address is that all of my test pieces are coming in 0.48-0.50 mm too tall. The error doesn't seem to change with object height e.g. a 10mm test cube comes in at 10.50mm and a 20mm test cube comes in
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JBFUK
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Prusa i3 and variants
I'd read not to bother with PID tuning for the heat bed in favour of BANGBANG. I'll give switching to PID a try - thanks.
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JBFUK
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Prusa i3 and variants
Now that I'm back on glass I have no adhesion issues. Hairspray for PETG/PLA and Slurry for ABS,
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JBFUK
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Prusa i3 and variants
I'm not sure and to be honest I just don't want to have another broken component to replace. I already suffered a blown PSU and MOSFET on the bed feed when the heatbed managed to short itself out - the washers above the bed spring slowly wore through the PCB coating and resulted in a short via the frame! Could be a blessing in disguise as I replaced the MOSFET with a much higher rated component
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JBFUK
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General
And wait an hour for it to get up to temp... 85'C seems good - I changed the brand of hairspray and now sticks well (from cheap supermarket 'super strength' to my wife's Elnett 'Supreme Hold'). Seems to print quite well just need to tune the extrusion as it's over-extruding a bit. Only gripe I have with it is the translucent property I'd prefer it more opaque.
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JBFUK
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Prusa i3 and variants
I see, the difference is connecting the black line to ground and using the blue line as the endstop input as opposed to the other way around which is what the sensor wiring diagram on the device itself shows. I'll switch to doing that once I've printed out a RAMPS enclosure and tidy up my wiring.
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JBFUK
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General
I started getting decent results with ABS back on glass but my nozzle got blocked yesterday so I figured after cleaning the hot end I'd switch filament and try out the PETG. Having trouble with getting it to stick - 240'c hot end, 85'c bed with hairspray on the glass. Parts pull off as soon as it starts putting down the second layer.
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JBFUK
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Prusa i3 and variants
In the preferences there is a setting - something about auto or snap to centre. Maybe try disabling that.
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JBFUK
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Slic3r
No I simply powered with 12v via the brown and blue wires and then measured the voltage between the black output wire and ground when activated. I take it this is not an accurate interpretation of what RAMPS would see if I connected that black wire directly to it? Wouldn't mind getting rid of the little voltage divider circuit if I could it would tidy things up a bit.
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JBFUK
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General
It's very draggy but yes - I can move them around in 2D view - that's excellent thanks
As for only being able to move the 'main' part in 3D view after making copies that's ridiculous. Surely the most basic user requirement is to be able to manually place their objects!
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JBFUK
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Slic3r
Hi,
I'm having issues in trying to fit multiple items on my platter. I can add all of the objects but sometimes they overlap. I really want to be able to place them manually but for some reason I can't reliably select and drag the items around. If you look at this example:
I can't select and drag the second of the wheels to move it in to clear space. Firstly moving the pointer around the
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JBFUK
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Slic3r
I wasn't sure as I got 12V on the sensor output when testing. Just to be safe I connected to the voltage divider I'd previously used for my inductive sensor. Works so I'll leave it like that for now.
BTW the LJC18A3-H-Z/BX works great with my glass plate. Highly recommended. I just wish it was smaller like the 8mm diameter inductive sensor.
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JBFUK
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General
After using an inductive sensor with an aluminium plate for a bit I really wanted to go back to glass. Accidentally ordered a higher range (but still inductive) sensor. Waiting for LJC18A3-H-Z/BX to be delivered by Amazon today. Do I understand correctly that I can wire this directly in to 12v with no voltage divider on the i/o wire going to the RAMPS board (using a two resistor divider with m
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JBFUK
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General
More success - thick ABS slurry with bed at 105 throughout and I used an 8mm float. Now have a case for my LCD
Things are looking up.
I still don't get the lovely smooth finish that I get from a glass plate as the aluminium has lots of tiny scratches from scouring clean. Any tips on cleaning up? Sanding leaves horrible white scratches. I've seen people suggest brushing lightly with aceton
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JBFUK
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Prusa i3 and variants
Some progress - these came out flat using a pretty thick ABS slurry, bed set to 105 for the whole print.
Going to try something else - this is encouraging. I did order a reel of PETG which should arrive tomorrow along with scotch tape. If the PETG can give me some of the strength of ABS without the hassle or the brittleness of PLA then it might be just the thing for prints prone to warping a
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JBFUK
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Prusa i3 and variants
Yeah bed temp is an issue, mine takes ages to get to 105'C even after building an enclosure - really don't want to have to go down the 24v route.
So in theory should ABS slurry be able to cling on to the aluminum plate without any additional help? I just got my second non-warped print this time using PVA and ABS juice over that; again the finish on the first layer is not pretty. I'm going to t
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JBFUK
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hi,
Having some serious issues with what I have now come to call my frustration generating machine (some might call it a 3D printer).
I am using an aluminium build plate as I have a proximity sensor which won't work with my glass plate. I have the aluminum MK3 bed with a 2mm sheet of aluminum on top which i actually print on. With the glass plate I found that ABS juice kept my prints held dow
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JBFUK
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Prusa i3 and variants
I was using this design (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:767951). The mk7 drive gear was not really sharp at all - nothing like the hobbed bolt which came with my 'Gregs' extruder. I'm going to order another hobbed bolt and build a geared bowden extruder.
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JBFUK
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Prusa i3 and variants
Well I attempted to calculate the E-steps a few times, while extruding, I found that I was forever going back and forwards so it must have been slipping. I removed the mk7 gear and found it hardly has any bite on the filament not even with quite a lot of pressure. I tried to clean out with a wire brush but I don't think it's clogged up.
Have had to put the direct extruder back in to action - a
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JBFUK
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hi all,
I built my i3 a few months ago - I had it running using gregs extruder and was printing pretty good parts. I then decided to switch over to a bowden feed as my E3D supported it and having read a few articles it seemed like a decent upgrade - certainly makes sense that the x-carriage would benefit from not lugging a stepper motor around.
Anyhow - I printed the required parts and have pu
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JBFUK
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Prusa i3 and variants