I wonder if their Dark As Glass is opaque black.by RRuser - General
Print Settings > Infill > Reduced Printing Time > Combine Infill Every ? Is it what is being covered here?...by RRuser - Slic3r
Maybe reset to default settings (using the config wizard), and change only to 100% infill, and try it.by RRuser - Slic3r
This corresponds to Createc's video for the steel X axis: (don't use the video for the plastic X axis, which is video #3). Aside from being a steel i3 (which is rare but very stable), and aside from being the only one I could find where the LCD was built into the frame, the X axis is also steel. It's the only steel i3 X axis I've seen. It is harder to assemble, and it does help if you are gooby RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
I don't know if all is the best, since it's my first printer. Just the frame. Really that's the main part, which should last for years and can be moved from room to room with no change in alignment. The other parts seem to work great, and are very cheap to replace.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
Usually the endstop is triggering too soon, from looseness or noise.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
I think it still should work if backwards.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
I was going to get the Wanhou i3 myself, and followed their Google group for 6 months before deciding not to get it. Although it is built, it seems most people still have to re-build it, and there is a list of mods and mandatory changes, including a recalled wiring problem that can burn up. The best point about it, is that the most experienced people of any forum are on that group.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
As I linked on the other post, I like the steel Createc because of the steel X axis, and the built-in LCD frame. The replikeo has bolts for a frame, which by default don't "lock" into place like the laser cut steel frame does. Also the Createc has the very-rigid triangle supported Zby RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
Well, if you have a decent issue patent (and sometimes just a decent pending application) with nice claims, then there are IP firms which will handle it on a percentage basis, or, you can license it to a larger company who can do the legal work for you. Costs no money.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
One option to deal with this, if you come up with good improvements again, is to go the patenting route. In the US, you could start by having a Design patent application drafted and filed for you by a patent agent for around $800, and then if you want, you could have a Utility patent application drafted and filed for about $4000. Then you can have much more control over who does what with your deby RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
I hope the acrylic works well for you. I was scared of acrylic, so got the steel Createc i3 instead. Interesting Bowden on an i3, especially dual. Not seen that much in a prusa i3.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
The PLA filament is probably cooked inside, and will need cleaning out.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
"PET, is it similar to printing ABS?" I'd say it's better in every way: No shrinking or warping. No smell. No enclosure required. Build plate can be heated or not (depends on brand). Can be printed on glass without any glue* Does not absorb water or moisture from air, so no storage container needed. Clear color is the most transparent of all filament materials. Is much "tougher" that PLA or ABSby RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
The long acme shaft is a good idea.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm sticking with manual leveling. My similar steel i3 by Createc is rock solid and non-flexing, and the glass lifts right and goes right back down with no changes in leveling needed. That's why I like steel.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
Slic3r here too. I bought S3D but am not using it.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
Sorry I meant Max Volumetric Speed.by RRuser - Slic3r
"Are the solid infill lines in pairs or evenly spaced" This is a neat thing to look for; if in pairs, might point to something that is different in one direction.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
What is it about the knock-offs that are not made properly?by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
Go here and turn off the emails: Mine only crashes, sometimes, when loading a new part after working on an old part. Closing slic3r and re-opening, then loading the part, works. I too bought S3D, but am holding off using it till I find out if I can just use slic3r. Don't really want to be using multiples of anything, and, S3D does not run on my old xp box so I'd need a different box.by RRuser - Slic3r
How can a .4 nozzle make a .4 width? Doesn't the width always need to expand a bit? Maybe the .39 setting is a trick for this.by RRuser - Slic3r
Yes it looks like something is telling it a big width.by RRuser - Slic3r
Max Volumetric Extrusion. That fixed everything. A setting of 5 seems max for printing the small gear, although it was pushing it; will try 4 next. No other speed setting would slow it down. And I'm trying to not use other slicers (I bought S3D too).by RRuser - Slic3r
This is a typical issue from an end stop switch that is being triggered randomly. When triggered, the extruder thinks it's at the left X home, so it starts all subsequent movement to the right only. Check the switch. And its wiring to make sure it's not near a wire which pulses a lot.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
Yes two or three prints; the more there is, the longer time to cool. And since it's always printing, the plastic does not cook.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
Yes it is solid infill. But I use solid on other things and it works normal. Even the base of this small gear is solid and is normal. It's just in the teeth of the gear that it speeds up.by RRuser - Slic3r