You can. I did it with a regular home iron and all the bubbles fizzed out at the edges. But you have to get it really hot and it's hard to maintain even pressure. If you had something like a T-shirt heat press maybe... Or if you sandwiched it between two pieces of granite in an oven for several hours. Like those sink cut-out chunks.von 3DPrinterNinja - Reprappers
The tape I used is an adhesive transfer type and it's rated 50F higher than the 468 tape. My 3M contact told me it's the best they have. It's considerably more expensive than 468MP, but I had a sample of it. I'm getting ready to move to a new house. Lot's of work ahead, but after I get settled I'll try again. Thanks.von 3DPrinterNinja - Reprappers
Yes, I cleaned the surfaces thoroughly with alcohol first. I also let the plate sit overnight. (VHB tapes cure over 72 hours but reach most of their strength in 24). The ultem is the .03" thick found on amazon and it's amber colored. It's smooth on both sides. There is a forum on SeeMeCNC where this is discussed as well and people have received both smooth and matte finishes via amazon for some rvon 3DPrinterNinja - Reprappers
I tried some Ultem taped to a piece of perf board this weekend and had poor results. The 3m tape I used is rated for higher adhesion and temp resistance than the 468 tape, but when it got hot it released from the Ultem. (After it cooled off again it was really stuck - couldn't pull it apart hardly. But at 100C it didn't stick.) The ABS print didn't stick to it either in the area where it separatevon 3DPrinterNinja - Reprappers
I see it now. Sorry. I looked at it on my phone and for some reason didn't get the table of sizes. Thanks for the info. Wayne PRINTinZ.comvon 3DPrinterNinja - Reprappers
Ok, thanks. I looked at that link and they only listed one item for several hundred dollars. I assume you can get cut pieces at various thicknesses elsewhere? If you print ABS on it, does the shrinkage cause the ultem to pull away from the glass? (Ie., does the tape keep it in place?) do you have to heat it to print PLA? I'd like to compare it to the plates I sell on my site at PRINTinZ and seevon 3DPrinterNinja - Reprappers
Mike, Can you tell me where you got your Ultem, what grade it is and how thick? I'd like to try it out. Thanksvon 3DPrinterNinja - Reprappers
You might try these plates if you want a more durable option than something that is just a thicker tape. These can be scraped, sanded, machined and heated. You can use both sides and prints will pop off as the plate cools or when you flex it. These will last for hundreds of hours if you don't abuse them.von 3DPrinterNinja - Reprappers
QuoteOhmarinus Haha, this is great, a thread necromancer came along, and then misan, the original last poster of almost 3 years ago, immediately replies Anyway, to add, I have great hopes in a PEI surface (PolyEtherImide) and am currently looking what is the best way for me to obtain an affordable place of PEI. There are many kinds of PEI and from what I have read, the kind that works best isvon 3DPrinterNinja - General
Hi, I've sold many more of these plates since the videos were made and have learned alot. People who have tried printing ABS on this plate at close to 100C have too much adhesion. So they use lower temperatures than what is needed to print on blue tape. Some people have even printed small ABS parts (and nylon) without heat. I have an Afinia printer which doesn't give me any control over the bedvon 3DPrinterNinja - Druck- und Heizbetten
Quotetophstar Hi All, I have a Prusa Mendel i3. I have been having issue with larger items I'm trying to print coming loose mid print (at random times, see attached picture). I need some suggestions. I have a glass bed with kapton tape (completely smooth) covering it and am printing with ABS right now. Thank You, Christopher Hi, It's hard to tell how big that print is from the picture. Youvon 3DPrinterNinja - Printing
Guten Tag, Sprechen Sie Englisch? Ich kann Fragen über die Platten für Sie beantworten ... Wayne PRINTinZ.comvon 3DPrinterNinja - Druck- und Heizbetten
I agree that as the contract area with the bed increases, you can go larger with the print. But i guess my experience has been that even when everything sticks, you will eventually reach a point where the stresses affect the layer bonding and the part is the "something" gives. I see people trying to build increasing large machines at home, and I just think they are going to hit a wall with ABSvon 3DPrinterNinja - Ormerod
Would it be fair to say that there is an upper limit to how big (or dense) of an ABS part can be printed on ANY build surface without a heated build chamber? The force just keeps increasing and eventually something's gotta give, right? That's the conclusion I've come to. Just wondering if anyone agrees...von 3DPrinterNinja - Ormerod
...but I thought I'd share this with you anyway. You can print it for next year. The STL's and CAD models are at my site for the taking.von 3DPrinterNinja - Look what I made!
HI, Glad you like it. I've been using it constantly for weeks. You can grab the STL's and the CAD files from my site: 3DPrinterninja.com Look in the free downloads. Thanks, Waynevon 3DPrinterNinja - Look what I made!
It surprised me when that part flattened out. Could be just the geometry of that part. It was fairly thin across most of it. Do you have a good suggestion for a test part? Something that has a high tendency to break loose from a table and/or split as it cools?von 3DPrinterNinja - Printing
This happens for me with ABS too. But it seems to advantageous. The laminate warps along with the part, absorbing some of the stress and maintaining adhesion to the part. When it's done the part peels away easily and springs back to some extent. I printed a thin flat part yesterday that was warped up with the laminate, but when I separated them the part sprang back to perfectly flat. The laminatevon 3DPrinterNinja - Printing
If you have space on your table, you could have it print a separate part off to the side that starts the second level of material just a little bit earlier than the main piece. It would give you an indication of when the letters were about to begin. With a little trial and error you could figure out exactly how much difference in Z you need between the two parts to time the second color. Having avon 3DPrinterNinja - Printing
Hi, I have some squares of fiberglass laminate material that have been working pretty well for a printing surface. Just wondered if anyone else has experimeted with it. PLA and ABS stick well during printing (I heat the table like usual) and then I just flex it a little and the prints pop right off with a very nice surface finish. Waynevon 3DPrinterNinja - Printing
Is it critical that the second color start at such a precise point? Seems like a lot of work to change colors. I did some little name medallions for my son's friends just a couple weeks back. I described it here. It was a first attempt so I didn't time it very well and when I thought the second color was feeding it wasn't, so there was a little delay.von 3DPrinterNinja - Printing
Nice! I like the quick release pin. Nice idea. I wanted to make something free standing - seems like everyone had something hooked to their machine or a shelf. But if that keeps your spool out of the way that's great. Frees up bench space. Waynevon 3DPrinterNinja - Look what I made!
The spool holder on my Afinia fits their spools really well, go figure. But it doesn't fit your typical aftermarket spools. Can't have that! So instead of modifying the boring stump of a spool holder they had, I built a free standing one. The square tapers that hold it together came out perfect - it snaps together nicely.von 3DPrinterNinja - Look what I made!