If the rrp uk source dries up, id look to rrp china Also, there is nothing stopping you from using a non rrp extruder, or head etc, most repraps become a mixture of oem parts, self designed parts, and stuff from third partiesby bgkdavis - Fisher
QuoteDADIY The acrylic arms were useless, they should never have been supplied as they were not fit for purpose. But then if you had plans to close the company perhaps you wouldn't care. I think that's a little unfair, if RRP really didn't care they would not have bothered to release the Fisher 1, and just rode out on Fisher Beta sales, the fact that the Fisher 1 was released generally indicatby bgkdavis - Fisher
The glass will be adding weight to to bed which will be making the springs a lot more sensitive, try putting some wads of paper down the three spring retaining holes to increase the spring compression and the upward force on the plate....stiffer springs would be a better solution but that is not the easiest to do.by bgkdavis - Fisher
First let me start by saying that I have built an enclosure for my Mendel 3 and it worked great, solves all the problems I had, I also added lighting and a smoke alarm to it......but an enclosure on a fisher is fairly pointless, will take up more work space and serve to clutter more than clutter. The difference is the Mendel prints ABS which I've found does greatly benefit from an elevated locaby bgkdavis - Fisher
The problem with having 30 years experience with ball joints is it doesn't really prepare you for the day when someone makes their ball joint assembly out of laser cut acrylic. There is a common wisdom on this forum that overtightening and catching may cause many breakages, not suggegting you did your up with a 200lbs torque wench, just relaying the common wisdom. Myself, I broke all the arms,by bgkdavis - Fisher
Its quite likely that snapped arms are down to a build issue over tightened arms or catching on something, RRP report that they have built and operated Fishers that operate for a long time without an arm failure. RRP have made attempts at improving the arm design since the Fisher Beta, but frankly, I'm really not surprised to be hearing reports of snapping arms again. The thing to remember abouby bgkdavis - Fisher
I've bumped the carbon arm build instructions back to the top of the forum if you look through the forum you should also find ideas others have for making jigs to help get them to the right length The ball spacing is not the most critical part of the fisher build, but the more accurately spaced they are then the more accurately your machine will function, I did make alternative carriage and efby bgkdavis - Fisher
you have three factors that all effectively control the same thing, set two of them to default and adjust the third, dont mess about adjusting all three you will only cause confusion The three factors I'm talking about are the diameter 1.73, extrusion multiplier 0.95 and 105% in web interface if you multiply them out you get a diameter of 1.726, ie if you set the extrusion multiplier to 1.0 andby bgkdavis - Fisher
have a look at the end of this topic, I had some ideas for this but never went anywhere with itby bgkdavis - Fisher
There are several things to always keep in mind with deviation 1) lower is not always better, its possible to cheat the deviation (accidental or deliberately) and get a very low deviation, yet have a crap calibration. 2) any figures quoted for deviation are meaningless without knowing what routine is being used. 3) know what is good enough, I think it was DC42 who proposed the idea that your devby bgkdavis - Fisher
G92 I think, move to height you want to set as zero then do a G92Z0by bgkdavis - Fisher
you should still adjust your H parameters, I'm sure the same job can be done via pronterface, someone else will need to supply the detailsby bgkdavis - Fisher
The bed mounts,carraige and hot end (white parts) are ABS, the rest is stock PLAby bgkdavis - Ormerod
No additional heating, the chamber already contains multiple heat sources, if anything Ill need to add cooling or an extractor fan, or move the electronics outside the chamber. What I have added inside the chamber is LED light strips and a smoke alarm. The construction is really simple, its basically a 550x500x500 box the three walls and top are made from corrugated plastic board which is staplby bgkdavis - Ormerod
Built a chamber for printing ABS on my Mendel 3...... before I got warping and cracking, after perfect prints.... definitely recommend a chamber for ABSby bgkdavis - Ormerod
QuoteSean.kennedy so how do i make it start higher? You need to adjust the H parameters, the H parameters in my bed.G are unique to my printer which due to the modification I've done is.... unique. to set the H parameters first set the step movements to half, so your smallest jog step is 0,.05mm (this is done somewhere on the web interface. now note the position of every probe move in the bedby bgkdavis - Fisher
QuoteSean.kennedy Quotebgkdavis It could be, but I was chasing a small deviation, it turned out one of the balls was loose and I tweaked a few positions, I did post my 6/10 bed.g file for someone recently, here You could try using my easy adjust efector I tried your file, the 10 point is awesome and worked great, but almost too great. it left no space at all between the build plate and the nby bgkdavis - Fisher
Quotedc42 QuoteTheolodian I have one other request for your next update please. Have the entire bed probing fail if the bed switch(es) are triggered at the beginning of the routine. Currently it just carries on. Cheers. That's not trivial, because the bed probe sequence is a series of G30 and other commands listed in bed.g, and it's not obvious what should happen if a G30 command fails. There isby bgkdavis - Fisher
It could be, but I was chasing a small deviation, it turned out one of the balls was loose and I tweaked a few positions, I did post my 6/10 bed.g file for someone recently, here You could try using my easy adjust efector modby bgkdavis - Fisher
QuoteDADIY I had a few issues with the first layer that I found were corrected by increasing the print temperature. For me the esun pla seems to print best at 220c. I had a simular deviation until I tweaked my config.g with my settings and now use the 6 point calibration. I typically use eSun at 200C,by bgkdavis - Fisher
Just rebuilt my effector today and tweaked a few things, my deviation on a 6/10 calibration cycle is down to 0.033, it had drifted up to 0.055 (from normally being 0.04) and I started getting first layer issues which is why I did the rebuild. 7.661!, there is something wrong there, what cycle are you using?by bgkdavis - Fisher
cool, those figures look OK but its actually the G30 report that had the deviation figure on it, this is more indicative of the quality of the calibrattion. glad this worked for you, but to get the most out of it you need to do a little work If you look at all the G30 lines there is a H parameter, these have been set to my machine and may be unique to my machine, you need to obtain these figurby bgkdavis - Fisher
here is my 6/10 bed.g I had some problems with catching the pillars so between probe moves it moves to centre Quotebed.g M561 ; clear any bed transform, otherwise homing may be at the wrong height G31 X0 Y0 ; don't want any probe offset for this G28 ; home the printer ; Probe the bed and do 6-factor auto calibration G30by bgkdavis - Fisher
what browser, if your using Infernal-net Exploiter then or Safari then that's probably your problem, try Chrome or Operaby bgkdavis - Fisher
Quotedc42 Quotebgkdavis ... You can also try rotating the axes on the duet, if you do this move the plugs as follows X-Y Y-Z and Z-X, make sure you move the limit switches the same way, before you print note the orientation on the machine where the faults occur, if after you have rotated plugs the fault stays in the same machine orientation then its a mechanical problem, if it rotates 120 degreesby bgkdavis - Fisher
If this were mechanical the error would probably not be as planar as they are on this and it would not scale with the cube, the error would have an angular relationship that represented the axis with the mechanical error, and the error we are seeing here appears to be Cartesian, which really does point towards software sources. excessive backlash could explain some of the infill boundary problemby bgkdavis - Fisher
You know, I keep looking back at your pictures, of the calibration cube and the regularity bothers me.....what also bothers me is that the Y looks OK, yet the X looks distorted, plus the separation between infil and boundary...... these are all saying something If this was on a Cartesian machine then I would be tearing apart the X and Y axes looking for the issue, but, on a delta, if you had a fby bgkdavis - Fisher
Definitely recommend the Carbon Rods, never looked back since I made mine. Since the Fisher is a basic built to a price kit then I guess the Acrylic arms are ok, certainly there are a lot of people who have not have problems with them. The great thing about the fisher is that is easy to work on and improve, and I would put carbon arms close to the top of recommended mods for the new fisher owneby bgkdavis - Fisher
Quotelord_alan Effector End: X 57.16mm Y 57.50mm Z 55.94mm Carriages X 55.90mm Y 55.50mm Z 56.07mm These figures are not unusual for a stock fisher beta if you look at my build log you will see this Looking at your dims I would reccomend you adjust them as follows 1) tighten up the carriages to try and increase the distance, I would guess that you should be able to make 55.7mm 2) using a fby bgkdavis - Fisher