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It worked! With an extrusion multiplier of 150% on the first layer, it turned! And then it kept turning, even when it had moved onto higher layers!
It must be a minimum extruder steps/G1 command or something. I've never run into it before, but now I know what to expect. Thanks guys for helping!
May your lines be straight and your nozzles never clog,
Aflactheastronaut
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aflactheastronaut
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Printing
Alright, I'm back. A fresh install of Marlin didn't do anything but give me a headache. I did some math though, and with an extruder steps/mm of 171.17, those G1 commands are moving the stepper about 1 step each for the 0.1mm print, vs about 3 steps each for the 0.2mm print. I'll try increasing the extrusion width to something crazy and see if the extruder stepper moves.
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aflactheastronaut
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Printing
Also, at the beginning of each print, it moves to the very center, does a retraction, then starts printing. Even at 0.1mm layer height, it completes the retraction (pulls 4mm filament out, and puts 4mm back in), then starts twitching as it tries to print the skirt
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aflactheastronaut
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Printing
Well it's not a nozzle jam. I unloaded the filament from the nozzle and extruder, and told it to print again, at 0.1mm layer height. The extruder motor didn't turn, even when it wasn't touching any filament. That seems to me like a bad extruder stepper, but it prints 100% fine at 0.2mm layer height. I just loaded the filament back in and printed a Marvin at 0.2 with no issues.
I'm at a real loss
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aflactheastronaut
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Printing
I temporarily raised the nozzle offset just to check that. The nozzle was 2mm away from the bed, but it still wasn't extruding plastic. The motor was still twitching too
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aflactheastronaut
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Printing
I've been struggling with this for about a week and I'm curious if any of you guys have any ideas. Here's my setup:
FLSun Kossel Delta, built in 2016
Board: MKS Gen L 1.0
Firmware: Marlin 1.1.9
Hotend: Genuine E3D v6
My problem:
The printer will not extrude when I set a layer height of 0.15, 0.1, or lower. I can feel the extruder motor twitching while the head moves, but no plastic is extruded
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aflactheastronaut
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Printing
Oh my god I feel so dumb right now. It was set to 220V and I switched it to 110V (I live in the US) and it worked perfectly. 11.7V supplied to the heater and bed, and they both heated up 10x faster than I've ever seen.
Thanks a ton for the help jinx! I think I finally have a fully functioning printer!
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aflactheastronaut
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General
jinx I feel really dumb for not trying that first. It didn't change the output voltage at all though, and I don't know why. It was putting out 9.2V along the whole 12V rail no matter which way I turned the potentiometer.
SupraGuy Yeah, I'm planning on 14A max for the bed + heater, 1.5A*4 steppers makes 20A max, plus around 1A for the board/fans/screen. I found a 400W psu (https://www.newegg.com/
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aflactheastronaut
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General
Yeah, I'm pretty sure it's the power supply too. It's also a cheap chinese LED psu (it says S-240-12 on the side) and I've been wanting to replace it for a while now. I disconnected it from the board today and found it had an output of 9.2V.
I'm looking into ATX power supplies now. Are there any brands I should avoid?
Also, how do you calculate how much power the board and steppers need when ch
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aflactheastronaut
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General
I brought a multimeter home today and checked the voltages with various heaters on:
Heaters off: mains 9V, bed 0V, heater 0V
Just bed on: mains 7.5V, bed 6.9V, heater 0V
Just heater on: mains 8V, bed 0V, heater 7.6V
Both heater and bed on: mains 7.2V, bed 6.8V, heater 6.9V
So clearly something needs to be replaced. Do you guys think this is a power supply issue or a board issue or both?
P.S. I
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aflactheastronaut
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General
o_lampe Well I've got a heated bed. I think I'll try printing without it, but I've had very good results with petg and a heated bed, so I might need a new power supply. Dangit.
It's not letting me attach an image (Error 413, request entity too large) even though the image is 1MB. Either way, there's a 2-3mm gap between the heatblock and heatsink.
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aflactheastronaut
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General
Well, I just tried using the H1 pin on my board instead of H0 and nothing changed. o_lampe, I felt the mosfets while it was running (admittedly, for only about 20 minutes) and they didn't feel warm at all.
Attached is a picture from Repetier of what I just tried. It seems like my power supply may be the issue. It's a cheap LED power supply rated for 12V and 20A. Is that low for what I'm trying t
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aflactheastronaut
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General
Yeah, that definitely seems low. For any of you guys with a 12V V6, how long does it normally take to reach 240C?
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aflactheastronaut
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General
Alright, I tested it with a multimeter and I think I have a 12V heater. It was reading 6.14 ohms, which is definitely more than the 4.8 that E3D says it should be, but it's less than the 19ohms for a 24V heater. It does also have 12V engraved on the side.
I don't know if this helps, but I measured the thermistor resistance too at room temp (~22C) and it was showing 84kohms.
I'm writing an email t
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aflactheastronaut
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General
o-lampe I set the max temp in Marlin (1.1.9) to 285, so I don't think that's coming in to play here
jinx and dc42 I might be using a 24V heater, I'll take it to work today and check it with a multimeter
the_digital_dentist nope, I just have the heatsink fan currently
Thanks for the quick replies guys, I hope I can get this to work!
Alex
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aflactheastronaut
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General
Hi guys, I just got a genuine V6 from matterhackers and I can't get it to reach 240C. It's connected to a MKS Gen L 1.0 (http://www.robotrebels.org/index.php?topic=769.0) board, which can supposedly supply 12V and 4.5A max to the extruder (54W), and the E3D has a 30W heater. I did some PID tuning yesterday at 230, and it was able to get there in maybe 10 minutes from room temp (~26C). But today,
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aflactheastronaut
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General
That's pretty cool! What kind of accuracy have you gotten with that movable z probe?
Also, I'd be worried about removing heatsink fans. One of my current problems is that my heatsink is too warm, so I'd rather not do that.
Ironically, since I started this thread, I've switched to a non-underslung (I'm sure there's another word for that) effector. I figure the E3D V6 is short enough and I can move
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aflactheastronaut
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Delta Machines
Yeah, there's good and bad versions of magnetic and rod arms. I currently have rod arms and a limited budget for upgrades, so I'll stick with them.
Here's my final plan for upgrades:
E3D V6 1.75mm Bowden 12V
This effector (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1093345), possibly modified to hold a microswitch instead of an optical endstop
This fan mount (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1137927), be
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aflactheastronaut
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Delta Machines
Cool, cool, I'll keep my non-magnetic rods. And yeah, I'm willing to lose ~40mm of my 320mm build volume if it means I have a working hotend. I'll look into those effectors and post pics in a while once everything's set up!
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aflactheastronaut
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Delta Machines
@o_lampe I hadn't thought of using two fans like that, I've got almost zero electronics experience. I'll definitely look into that!
I was also told an IR probe wouldn't work with an aluminum bed (too reflective) but I have been covering it with masking tape, so that should probably work.
I like that super small design, and I love that it's holding the heatsink at the bottom (I'd really rather not
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aflactheastronaut
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Delta Machines
Yeah, I'll be keeping a closer eye on my rails from now on.
Also, how close of a fit is the V6 hotend? I was looking into other effectors because I thought the stock one couldn't hold a V6.
Thanks,
Alex
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aflactheastronaut
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Reprappers
Hi guys!
I'm also spooked by the very exposed terminals on my power supply and board. But I have next to no electronics experience, so I don't feel like tinkering around with this stuff without knowing more. Could one of you guys point me in the right direction to find a guide to wiring this stuff safely? Like, for absolute beginners?
Thanks a ton,
Alex H
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aflactheastronaut
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Safety & Best Practices
I've got a FLSUN Kossel Delta with a MKS Gen L 1.0 board running Marlin 1.1.4. When it's connected to my computer via USB/Repetier, everything works fine, e.g., I can change temperatures from my computer or through the lcd controls. But if it's unplugged from the computer, and I try to change extruder temp or bed temp, the heater turns on for maybe a second before the board automatically resets.
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aflactheastronaut
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Printing
So I've got a FLSUN Kossel Delta. It's had a bunch of problems with extrusion, so I'll be getting a v6 hotend soon. And while I'm upgrading things, I'd like to get a smaller effector, preferably with better part cooling. Here's what I'm looking for:
V6 compatible
Underslung, so I don't lose any build volume
My board can only support two fans, so just one for the hotend and one for part cooling
A
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aflactheastronaut
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Delta Machines
Oh wow, I forgot I started this thread. It's been a while, and I'm happy to hear that you've solved a bunch of problems DLC!
As for me, I found some of the documentation that I was looking for in the original post. It was on the SD card that came with the printer, and I just hadn't looked for it there. Oops.
I've made it through half a spool of PETG, which has its ups and downs. It needs to pri
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aflactheastronaut
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Reprappers
Can you confirm if this worked or not? I'm having similar problems with my FLSUN Kossel.
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aflactheastronaut
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Mechanics
Alrighty, I have some small nuggets of wisdom to share with anyone building or using the FLSUN Kossel (I got mine from 3DPrintersBay). To put this in context, I'm a college student with lots of printing experience on a Makerbot in high school, but this printer is my first kit. I'll try to update this as much as I can when I think of something new.
BUILDING TIPS:
In my kit, there was an SD card w
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aflactheastronaut
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Reprappers